Cross Bodice Jumpsuit

I made up this pattern in my Advanced Pattern making class that I have been taking at Portland Fashion Institute as a part of my first collection for my label Love, Stephanie.

 

FF_2016_STEPHANIE

I got about 4 yards of a lovely silk twill-like material that had just the right amount of drape to it without being sheer or flimsy.

I love how easy and free-flowing this jumpsuit looks and feels:

FF_2016_STEPHANIE

It was a fairly easy design to create. I made a cross bodice top with a back zipper opening, drafted a long sleeve with a wider sleeve hem, made a wide leg palazzo pant, and sewed them together at the waist and added elastic. I then whipped up a simple sash and tied it loosely at the waist Boom! Done!

FF_2016_STEPHANIE

 

I have been admiring the whole jumpsuit trend and have been saving up inspiration photos on Pinterest:

Love it! I can now take what I have made and create different versions of it; narrower leg, sleeveless, halter top, all kinds of fun and fashionable looks. Sew exciting!!

Thanks for stopping by and stay tuned for more custom designs from me!

Love,

Stephanie

 

 

 

Animal Print Brocade Holiday Party Dress

I love this dress! I thought it would be too poofy and make me look bigger than I would like to look, but after wearing it, I was OK with the poof.

 

V1434 in animal print brocade

Vogue Pattern 1434 by Isaac Mizrahi in animal print brocade

 

I used Vogue 1434 to make this dress. It’s a Vogue Patterns American Designer pattern designed by Isaac Mizrahi:

V1434 Pattern Cover

V1434 by Isaac Mizrahi Pattern Cover

V1434 Line Drawings

V1434 Pattern Envelope Back and Line Drawings

I cut out this dress in a size 14, making a fitting muslin of the bodice first, which took some minor tweaking at the shoulders and bust princess seams, but the fit was pretty great overall. I cut it from a beautiful Italian animal print cotton blend brocade in metallic cream, rose and peach shades from Oscar de la Renta I ordered from Moodfabrics.com:

Oscar de la Renta Cream/Wint/Rose/Peach Animal Italian Cotton Blended Brocade Fabric

Oscar de la Renta Cream/Wint/Rose/Peach Animal Italian Cotton Blended Brocade Fabric

Pattern Cutting the Brocade

Pattern Cutting the Brocade

I had a nice red silk crepe de chine fabric in my stash that was just barely enough yardage to fully line the dress:

cranberry red silk crepe de chine for the lining

cranberry red silk crepe de chine for the lining

The dress was fairly easy to construct with a basic princess seam sleeveless bodice and full pleated skirt and deep pockets, lined by the same pattern pieces for the bodice and different patterned pieces for a gathered skirt lining.

The most time consuming part was making the pleats.

I traced the pleat placement using the handy pleating guide included in the pattern pieces:

Pleat Guide Pattern Piece

Pleat Guide Pattern Piece

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I found that this would have been helpful had all my pleat tracing work had actually shown up and stuck to the brocade fabric once it came time to sew them. Instead, I actually held the guide up to my fabric as I pinned each pleat in place, then carefully basted them down:



Pinned and Sewing Pleats

Pinned and Sewing Pleats

This took the most time and attention, but it was worth the work!

finished dress!

finished dress!

I love how the lining turned out, accept the fact that I didn’t take the time to make French seams on the skirt as the inside of the lining could show my mistake or if anyone looks at it throughly inside and out. Oh well, I might just pink the seam edges so they don’t fray.

Mood Fabrics even sent a little label with the fabric that I sewed into my dress below my Love, Stephanie label. Oh, the little things make all the difference!

Labels Pinned and ready to Hand Sew Into Lining of Bodice

Labels Pinned and ready to Hand Sew Into Lining of Bodice

 

Lining of Bodice with Labels

Lining of Bodice with Labels

this dress is fully lined in red silk crepe de chine

this dress is fully lined in red silk crepe de chine

This dress was a huge hit at the two little holiday parties I went to Saturday, and I plan to wear it to another party on Sunday! I even met a woman who wants to talk to me about making some custom dresses and apparel for her! Plus, friends of mine have been dying for me to make them something custom, and we have some really great project ideas in the works! So exciting!

I was going for a dress inspired by these dresses I pinned on Pinterest:

Eliza J dress at Nordstrom

Eliza J dress at Nordstrom

Lanvin Jaquard Dress

Lanvin Jaquard Dress

It is so very cool to be able to make my own clothes, and then wear them and “sell” my work to others!

The Deep Pockets are Wonderful!

The Deep Pockets are Wonderful!

Love My New Dress!

Love My New Dress!

 

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and  and Happy New Year to ALL!!! MWAH!!

Tie Neck Silk Blouse-Coral Pink Charmeuse

OK, maybe these tie neck or “pussy bow” style tops are old school, maybe they are haute couture. I don’t know for sure. All I know is I love them. And, I know that I will make them over and over again, until I cannot bare to make any more:

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This beauty I made for my stunning brunette friend (you know how you are 🙂 ) as a gift. I have had this pinky/coral colored lustrous silk charmeuse for about two years now, keeping Her in mind to make a top for. I finally had her body measurements (I measured them for her on Thanksgiving 2014 before dinner), and figured she would look really nice in a lower cut, tie neck blouse, in a favorite color that she loves, not to mention looks really pretty on her.

I used Simplicity 1784 pattern, view A,  to make this blouse.

Simplicity 1784                                                   1784_fbvSimplicity

 

I ran out to Button Emporium to find some pretty , unique, and special buttons to use for this top. I found some lovely German Word War II-era pink glass buttons and grabbed up enough, plus extra, to button up this beauty.

Antique German glass buttons

Buttoned barrel sleeve cuff

 

Front buttons of blouse

Front buttons of blouse

I attempted to make this top as nicely as I could. I used French seams for the side, sleeve and armhole sleeves, plus hand stitched the interior of the cuff and neckline seams. Next time I make this top, or any top like this, I will not use fusible interfacing, at least not in the neck facing, because it left the facing a little warpy and stiff, plus it shows a little. I will try a silk organza, or the self material, for any interfacing parts the next time.

I have seen, and Pinned, several tops and blouses lately, that were an inspiration for this creation:

7358d5552191b2ed8f2e7132851899dc                97a50a5726afca5993a13598ceb541e4                   0f494dd2f340a14778af6468a061cccc57d8a02dd2aa834480f90c7ea325921a

 

I hope that She loves and enjoys this top and can wear it for many years to come. Who knows, maybe she will commission me to make her more of these, or similar ones, to add to her wardrobe and wear for the future. I would LOVE to do that! For Her, or anyone else who would like that. And who can afford me too 😉

back of silk blouse

IMAG3331

Leather inset peplum top and skirt

I made this top and skirt yesterday to wear as an usher at Fashion Week fashion show next weekend. I had some leather in my stash I got at Tandy Leather in Portland and used a mystery thick ponte knit (I think this was actually a neoprene fabric) I bought over a year ago at Mill End for the rest of the top and matching pencil skirt. I used New Look pattern 6130 for the outfit.

Leather inset peplum top and skirt                  IMAG2061                         IMAG2066                        IMAG2067

I may be a little late to the peplum party, but I have found some similar dresses online at high end retailers such as these pricey ones:

faux leather bodice peplum dress $595

\ faux leather bodice peplum dress $595

Raoul $395

Raoul $395

I can’t wait to wear this to the fashion event!

Update: Here I am wearing my outfit at a fashion show in October 2014. I got tons of compliments on this dress, and was asked if I have a line of clothing! I think I’d better get on that request and start designing for real!

Posing with some of my fashion friends at FashioNXT fashion show in POrtland Oregon

Posing with some of my fashion friends at the 2014 FashioNXT fashion show in Portland Oregon

Classic and classy silk blouse

I’ve been slowly working on this silk crepe de chine blouse from McCall’s 6606 sewing pattern. It is a lovely, classically cut, set-in sleeve, button front blouse with a front yoke pleat, a back self-lined yoke, long sleeves, sleeve cuffs and a pointed stand collar. I’ve done hand stitching where needed, and sewn and pressed it with great care. Although not complete, the blouse is already hanging beautifully and softly and the deep red color is gorgeous.

McCalls 6606 in Silk Crepe

Red silk crepe blouse in progress of sewing, floe to finish

IMAG1882 IMAG1886

I just need to complete the hand slip stitching inside of the collar stand, make the self-covered buttons (first time for doing this!), make the buttonholes down the front placket and  on the cuffs, then sew on the buttons, and it will be done.

Here is a photo of hand basting in progress attaching the collar band to the collar stand. I used a silk thread for ease of sewing and removing later, which I really like to do as a technique for basting.

Hand basting with silk thread

Basting stitches by hand with silk thread.

I can’t wait to wear this blouse! I have tried it on several times for fit and feel, and so far, it feels amazing to wear! So soft, luxe and a beautiful color. Plus the back hem dips down a few inches which is very nice for coverage on the backside. I most likely will be wearing this with skinny pants or jeans, or tucked in to a pencil skirt. The hem line is perfect for either of these fashion situations.

I am actually considering putting this up for sale before I wear it and make it my own 🙂 I think I could get a nice amount for this blouse, or make one in another size, color or print as a client desires. I think I should always have a silk top in the works, and finish some that I have already started. They are so nice and feel wonderful to wear, and people want them! So many things to sew…..

4/18/14 Update: I finally finished this blouse and I love it, but I am wearing it, so it is sadly not for sale 😦  Oh well, I’ll just have to make more!

Oliver has approved it too as he looks on at the “photo shoot”.

M6606a M6606b M6606c M6606d