I’ve known Michel for a few years now. She has come to me on several occasions to alter and do minor repairs on her clothing. She loves fashion and is always intrigued with what projects I am working on, especially the custom dressmaking ones. She would say to me that someday, she’d love to have me make something custom for her. Well, that day came along when she was asked by her best friend to be the Maid of Honor in her wedding, and she had the choice of what to wear in the wedding as long as it was formal, elegant and black.
As soon as Michel was asked, she reached out to me to see if I was available to create a gown for her. Of course I was! Michel is such a wonderful person and a repeat client of mine, so I was honored to create something special for her.
We had our first meeting at my house on a warm sunny afternoon, over a light lunch and refreshments, sitting out on my back deck. We talked about what style she likes, what parts of her body she’d like to highlight and what she’d rather not. We talked about color (black), and fabric options, the timing of the wedding, and I showed her some images I put together on Pinterest.
A black lace gown I pinned on Pinterest
She loved the idea of a fit & flare dress, or a mermaid style that is fitted from the bodice to the upper leg, then flares out at below the knee. She wanted to highlight her slim waist and also wanted sleeves as the wedding was scheduled for the end of January, so she might get cold. It was great as we worked together to decide on a suitable style as she had an idea of what she wanted, but also put a lot of trust in me and my experience in the fashion industry, dabbling in image consulting.
I found a couple of sewing patterns to start with, and eventually decided on this one: McCalls 6838.
McCalls 6838 sewing pattern
The pattern cover is really not all that elegant, but if you look past that and look at the illustrations and line drawings, the pattern becomes much more appealing. To me, at least!
Line drawings of McCalls 6838 sewing pattern
In my sewing experience so far, I like to take an existing pattern that is already graded and figured out, and make it extra by adding design details, using nice quality fabrics, linings, embellishments, and leveled-up sewing and dressmaking techniques to really make the design special and valuable.
As a side note, I have been working solely for myself since June of 2022, running my design, dressmaking and bridal alterations business Love, Stephanie. Since then, I have leveled up my sewing and strive to create high quality garments with special details including fit, better fabrics, quality construction and special personal touches. Doing so, I have also revised my price list and raised my prices, no longer giving friends and family discounts or doing free-bee trades just because I feel like I am charging too much or still in training. Now, I charge accordingly for my work, my experience, my dedication to my clients, and my attention to detail. Saying that, this gown took a lot of time and effort to create, and I priced it at $1,400 not including fabric. Just in case you were wondering!
Back to the dress!
We had our first fitting using the pattern tissue paper to just get an idea of fit for the main parts of the pattern. Michel has a great figure, virtually zero body fat, so the pattern essentially fit right out of the envelope with very little adjustments needed. Must be nice, huh!
Tissue fitting!
From there, we went fabric shopping together and Michel chose and purchased a lovely black lace with a little floral motif all over, and a scalloped edge which I used later for the neck and sleeve edges of the shrug.
The pattern and the lace! Please excuse the cluttered background of my studio!
I then moved on to making a muslin mock-up of the dress to further ensure the fit and style are what she likes before I cut into her fashion fabric. I only had to make a few more fitting tweaks at the muslin stage, taking notes along the way to keep track of what I needed to do as I made progress.
The muslin!In her mock-up, Michel just needs a few tweaks to the fit, and to decide what lining she preferred (nude lining won!)
For each of my custom sewing clients, I keep a dossier type folder with my notes, sketches, pattern pieces, inspiration images, fabric swatches, receipts, and have this handy as I’m working on the project to keep it all together and organized. I keep and store each client’s dossier after the project is complete for my own records as well, and as a reminder as to how far I’ve come along which is nice 🙂
Michel’s dossier cover image, with my sketching & scribbles, stored in a pocket folder, with all my notes kept together
With the muslin fitting stage completed, it was now time to start cutting into the fabric and constructing the dress.
I cut out all of the lace pieces of the dress, including the bodice, the skirt, and the lower skirt flounce. I also cut the exact same pattern pieces out of a light weight lining material in a flesh tone to underline the lace and give it structure and opacity. Here I have my pattern pieces all cut out, stacked and pinned with the lace and underlining, ready to be hand basted together and later treated as one layer to be sewn together.
The bodice pieces cut out in lace with underlining pinned and ready to be basted together by handThe upper skirt pieces marked and ready to be basted together by handOne half of the lower skirt portion ready for basting the layers together.
Once the layers were basted together, I could move on to sewing the pattern pieces together and start forming the dress.
The bodice sewn together The bodice and upper skirt sewn together. It looks great just like this!
To give the lower circle skirt more body, bounce and twirl appeal, I added a layer of tulle between the lace and the lining, gathering it as I sewed it to the upper seam edge before attaching it to the lower skirt. I thought this was a great idea as I’ve seen this kind of layer in big ball gown type skirts, knew it would be easy to do and create a great effect.
Lots of pins to keep this tulle in check!It looks like a messy nest, so one pin at a time controls the tulle before and during machine stitching
This is the stage where I wanted to start adding the beading. I planned it at this stage of the construction process as I wanted the stitching and threads of the beading to be hidden between the outer layer (the lace and underlining) and the lining. I bought some lovely little black glass seed beads and black sequins and created a little stack of them and sewed 2-3 stacks to the large flower motif in the center. It wasn’t all that noticeable on the dress, especially in a photo, but in person, it gives the dress a tiny little shimmer and adds a slight texture to the lace.
Hand sewing the seed beads and sequins, one by one, to the laceI created tiny little stacks of seed beads and sequins to the center of the large flower motifs all over the dress and flounce
As I sewed the beads and sequins to the dress, I kept track of my time using the timer on my iPhone and jotting it down as I went. Adding it all up, it took me about 9 hours to bead the dress. If I had the time, I would have beaded more of the dress, but this wasn’t feasible with just my two hands and lack of time!
As the dress progressed, I had a couple of more fittings with Michel, this time in the fabric, before I added the lining, just to check fit again and make sure everything was perfect before the lining installation
Michel pinned into her dress, the straps and belt also just pinned, and deciding on the finished hem length.Pinned into the dress, with the unfinished shrug (again, please excuse the mess!)
She also wanted a sleeve option for the dress, so I made a little matching shrug for her using Butterick 4731 for the pattern.
Butterick 4731 for the shrug only (although I also like the gown in this pattern)I used the sleeves of view A and the front and back of view B to make the shrugI cut out the shrug in the same layers as the dress, also beading the outer lace layer before adding the lining
I used the pretty scalloped border of the lace material to create a trim to go around the edges of the shrug at the neckline, around the back, and the sleeve hem.
Hand stitching the lace edge trim to the finished shrug
I wanted to be sure to have a well made garment that would last a long time, and be extra special to slip on and wear comfortably. I added two hanging loops into the side seams of the lining using a narrow satin ribbon, so that when the gown was hanging, not all of the weight of the dress was on the straps and it was supported with the loops. These loops would then just fall down into the dress when worn and are not seen. I also added a little waist stay right at the waistline of the dress using a wider ribbon and a hook and bar. This feature helps to support the weight of the dress on the inside. I see both of these interior details in some of the wedding gowns that I have altered, so I like to adapt them into my dresses for a high end, secret quality detail!
The hanging loops do their job to help support the dress while hangingThe waist stay added as her exact waist measurement inside the dress for support
Jumping ahead, as the wedding date was rapidly approaching, the dress and shrug were turning out so well, and I couldn’t wait to get Michel in it and delivered before the big day.
Before delivering it though, I wanted to add a little special and personal touch to the garment bag that I usually include with the dresses that I make for my clients. This time, I used my embroidery machine and made a monogram for her on the outside of the garment bag.
The purchased garment bag with the personal monogram
Finishing up the dress and delivering the finished product always feels great! She’s excited, I’m excited and everyone can’t wait to see her dazzling in her new custom made gown!
Checking and double checking the hem is even and balanced
The time finally came that I was 100% finished with the dress and I was ready to deliver it to Michel. It kind of feels like I am handing off a little part of me whenever it’s time to deliver the dress, so I try to take the time to get some good photos of the finished product before she’s gone off to her rightful owner!
She’s done! Isn’t she lovely!With the matching shrug
All dolled up and in her gown, Michel is absolutely STUNNING! She’s a natural beauty and does not need makeup of any kind, but boy, when she dresses up and gets all dolled up, WOW! Breathtakingly beautiful!
Stunning!Simply gorgeous!Michel and her best friend, the lovely bride Megan!
Another dream dress come true!! Onwards and Upwards!
A dream dress that I never knew about came to life through a lovely lady who trusted me to create her bridal vision.
The Forest Bride Gown
Alex contacted me through my website inquiring if I would be able to create a bespoke dress she loved for her wedding ceremony taking place in the woods by a waterfall. She wanted a gown with a renaissance feel, nothing wedding traditional, and with a romantic, unique, artistic appeal to it. When she showed me her inspiration gown, I gasped with excitement over the beautiful velvet gown with embroidered decorations on the front and back. Stunning!
She wanted to use velvet for the main fabric, with satin accents. And of course, the appliqués all over the bodice front and back, and extending into the skirt. So not to copy the inspiration dress exactly, she chose a royal blue velvet and a coordinating blue satin for the bands, accents and lining.
The lush velvet in royal blue
We got started right away on the project, having a consultation meeting to discuss her inspirations, her wants and desires out of the dress, fabric sources and pattern ideas. We also came up with a timeline for me to work back from, and I drew up her contract, cost of the dress, and a payment schedule.
I proposed using this dress pattern McCalls 7624 because of the front band neckline was similar to her inspiration dress:
McCalls 7624
Looking at the line drawings you can see how the front and waist bands are close to one of the main features she wanted out of the dress:
Line drawings of McCalls 7624 view B
I planned to make the following changes to the pattern to better match her vision:
1. Modify the skirt to not have any waist gathers, be a longer length, and have a slight train. I actually drafted an entirely new skirt pattern from scratch to achieve this.
2: Modify the waist bands to also wrap around to the back of the dress
3: Modify the sleeves to not have the opening, and also be a different shape and add a cuff.
I made the changes to the pattern and made a mock up in muslin.
The original sleeve pattern used to make a different sleeve shapeSlash and spread that sleeve!A fashion illustration is always helpful, and fun!
At the fitting, I took in here and there, but the general shape she was going for was spot on
Getting fitted in muslin, trying out sleeve options and lengthsShe already loves it, even in plain muslin
Once she received the fabric and embroidered appliqués she ordered, she brought them over and I made up the shell of the dress and basted it together for her to see it, and to have her place the appliqués where she wanted them on the dress.
The shell of the dress cut out, basted and pinned together
She came by, and using her artistic visions and talents, placed and pinned the appliqués on the dress as she had in mind.
We decided that the cuff in satin with 5 of the vintage buttons would look best
Planning out the button placement of the cuffs
And one button for the the back neck closure (I actually used two of the buttons and made loops here).
The placement of the flying crane appliqués has symbolic meaning
Once all the placement was confirmed, I carefully pinned the appliqués securely to the dress pieces and removed it from the dress form.
All of the appliqués pinned on already looks amazing
The dress pieces removed, separated and ready to be appliquéd
This is where the real work began. I spent literally hours, entire days, early mornings and late nights, sewing on each of the appliqués by hand. The vines took the most time as I sewed each leaf down to the velvet, then carefully trimming away the mesh backing from the appliqué.
Sewing down the leaves, one by oneNeedle and thread, and trimming away the mesh from the appliqué The cranes needed to be basted down first, then sewn down with tiny stitches, changing thread colors to match the areas, to the shifty velvet
With every step I completed, I kept the bride up to date with my progress how it was going (and also why it was taking so long!)
The appliqués were 90% completely sewn down
And on to the rest of the dress and the lining!
The long front bandsThe dress is fully lined in lovely smooth satin.
The sleeves were a big deal as we wanted a slight puff at the shoulder, a drapey lower sleeve with a dramatic cuff with buttons and loops.
I created little “poufs” out of tulle to put into the sleeve head between the velvet and the lining. I made each pouf by cutting an oval shape out of the tulle, folded it and sewed it together to look kind of like a scrunchie or shower pouf, then sewing this to the shoulder seam on the inside of the sleeve. This trick turned out great to create the subtle lift to the shoulder
Creating the poufSewing in the pouf
Shoulder with pouf
The light at the end of the tunnel was near (so was the wedding date!). The final touches included inserting the zipper, hand sewing the lining to the inside along the band, and the hem
And more hand sewing the lining
And sewing in my label of course
Sewn with love!
After the hem was made for both the dress and the lining, and little tacks sewn in to keep the lining in place, the dress was finally complete!
The dress front!The cuffs! So pretty
I was naturally nervous as heck when she was on her way over to pick up her finished dress. She slipped it on and it was PERFECT! Yay!
This is the face of total delight!
I felt such a sense of relief that she was so happy with her dress! She looks and feels beautiful in it and that was my goal all along, that is success to me!
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to have a custom dress or outfit made just for you? Have you thought that just buying something off the rack or from a website is good enough and will do for the occasion, but deep down (or not even that deep) you wish you could wear something that fit you perfectly, was made well, is a flattering color on you, and was something you would be comfortable, confident and proud to wear to your event and beyond? Do you want a great dress, top, suit or outfit hanging in your wardrobe that you can reach for again and again and just know it works? If you said “yes!” to all of the above, I would love to be the one to make this dream come true for you!
So, what does this process look like, how does it all happen and how long would it take? It’s this going to cost me an arm and a leg?
For those questions, the answer is: it all depends.
First off, I am a one woman operation (at least for now I am) and only have so much time in a day. My goals for my Love, Stephanie custom sewing business include creating quality, timeless apparel for special clients who recognize the value in a well made custom garment. I use fine quality materials and construction methods, I don’t take on rush jobs, and I don’t take shortcuts. That being said, that is what takes the time to perfect the fit, using smart construction techniques, and all of the education and sewing skills that I have learned over the years that rolls into the lead time and cost of a custom made garment.
That’s me! Stephanie of Love, Stephanie
Sound intriguing so far? Great! Read on and I’ll walk you through what my typical process looks like from the perspective that includes the client experience and what to expect.
We begin with an initial meeting where I get to know you better, what your ideas and visions are for your custom garment, what your lifestyle is like, and what mood or purpose you’d like to portray through the garment you’ll be wearing.
Initial Client Consultation
From there, I build a plan and a timeline to achieve the finished garment before your deadline and get started sourcing fabrics and pattern options that go into making your garment.
Going over sketches and fabric ideas
I like to create sketches, a mood board, and gather any other ideas and components that go into the creative process of making a successful garment, and share these with you along the way.
After our initial consultation meeting, I gather up all the information and write up a contract that includes all of your contact information, the deadlines, our design concept agreement, project components, costs and payment schedule for you to read over and sign. This is an important step as I want to ensure both of us are in agreement over all of the details in case any questions or concerns should arise.
Then the fun begins! I’ll take all of the body measurements I need from you and get started making the garment.
Taking measurements Lots of measurements!
Using your measurements and a pattern, I cut out and sew up a simplified mock-up garment in muslin fabric to check fit, style preferences and to make sure you are happy with the basic silhouette before cutting into any fashion fabric. At times, an additional muslin, or part if it, needs to made and fitted again if there are a lot of changes that need a review before proceeding.
A mock-up fitting in muslinI check for any fit issues that need to be corrected, and make sure you are happy with the style lines and length
Meanwhile, the fashion fabric that you want, including any lining material, trim and notions needed, is confirmed and purchased. I aim to use the best quality fabric that is within your budget (not included in the cost of my labor) as I truly feel that the fabric makes all the difference in the look and wear of a garment. I prefer to work with natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk and linen, but will consider good quality man made fabrics to sew with such as rayon and synthetic blends.
Fabric choices are important in the outcome of a beautiful garment Silk is my personal favorite!
Once the muslin is approved and the fabric is all here, I transfer any changes to the pattern, and start cutting!
The beautiful silk georgette is laid out and ready to cutAnd sewn (silk is notoriously difficult to sew)
Most times, I have one last fitting of the garment in the fashion fabric to double check the fit, pin the hem, and work out any last details before delivering the finished creation.
From concept to creation!Perfection!The final fitting!
And that’s it! Easy, right?
Well done! Cheers!
In a nutshell, that’s the process in creating a unique custom garment, made especially just for you! No matter what size or shape you are, it’s an exciting and rewarding experience like no other.
Want to give it a go? Reach out to me and come on by my place with your dream garment vision and we’ll make it happen!
It’s my birthday and I wanted to take the time out of my busy sewing schedule to make something special for myself. This year, I chose underwear!
I have several bra and panty sewing patterns and kits that I have collected in hopes to sew up pretty underpinnings for myself or others. I just love the pretty laces and fabrics that go into making lingerie sand find that making them up brings me great satisfaction and joy.
For this project, I chose to make the Watson bra and bikini set from https://clothhabit.com/ that I downloaded and printed out in PDF format.
I had some nude colored stretch gallon lace, some mesh and lining also in nude, and the specialty elastics and findings needed to make this set already on hand, so I just got to cutting and sewing this asap to have done in one day for my birthday.
The materials
I cut the bra cups strategically so that the pretty scalloped lace edges would be featured on the front and bottom edge of the bra, as well as the bikini.
Cutting out the bra cups on the laceThe bikini pieces cut out
I cut the same pieces out of lining to give the bra some structure and modesty, and sewed them all together as instructed.
I used my serger for some of the seams, using my handy Wonder Clips so not to sew over any pins.
Serging the cup lining and lace edgesMore serging, using Wonder Clips of course
I got about 1/2 way done, but then had to stop for the night and rest my eyes. Things were going quite well with both parts and I was quite happy to see it coming together, so I pinned what I had done so far to one of my dress forms and called it a night.
Making progress!
After only one broken needle and a little trouble sewing the shifty mesh and lace, I finally got it all finished in time to snap a few phots, shower and wear it out (under my clothes, of course) for my birthday dinner with my dear husband and a few close friends and family members.
Bra and Panty Completed!It’s a little large for my tiny mannequin, but you get the idea…
This little gem took me months and months to make, but the actual sewing took only a few weeks to complete. My biggest weakness when it comes to sewing is starting a wonderful and exciting new project, then something else shiny (or someone who’s paying) comes along and I set it aside for far too long. This baby was exactly one of those scenarios.
I love making jackets. They are a big part of my wardrobe and can be easy to sew. They are even easier to sew if you’ve made the same one before, as I did for this bomber jacket pattern. I used Simplicity 8418 pattern for the second time to create this beauty, and it is certainly not the last time.
Now, for the ingredients that make this recipe top notch, I used beautiful silk material, quality threads, and smart sewing techniques. The main fabric for this version I decided to finally use an end remnant of gorgeous silk jacquard labeled from Chanel that I won years ago in a fabric giveaway and was stashing for a special project. I also happened to have enough of a piece of silk lining-weight material in the perfect shade of purple to coordinate with the colors of the Chanel silk, also in my stash (If you don’t know me already, I have a very healthy stash of fabric in my possession).
Of course, I also had Pinterest to add to the inspiration for this creation, which made the decision to cut into this beautiful material more bearable, because after all, you only life once and you can’t take it with you. Here are just a few of the bomber jackets that inspired me:
I got right to cutting out the pattern pieces from the main fabric and the lining, as well as the light weight batting I used to quilt the silk to. The last time I made this pattern, I quilted the entire lining and left the outer side as it were. This time, I wanted the quilting to be part of the texture of the outer garment.
Well, I quilted part of the back of the jacket, and that’s about the time when I got busy with other pressing projects, paying clients, and teaching others to sew, so the jacket partially made and the cut pattern pieces was gently laid aside on the “to be continued” pile. There it sat patiently for months.
Fast forward to October of 2021 when I was planning to attend a conference that involved the professional sewing guild that I belong to, Association of Sewing and Design Professionals or ASDP for short.https://sewingprofessionals.com/. I knew that I wanted to wear garments that I had made to the convention and had a long wish list that I had wanted to create, but for the sake of time, and to tackle my growing pile of UFO’s that stare at me when I’m in my sewing room, and seem to beg for me to just work on them just a little bit, I revisited the silk bomber project and decided it would be a fantastic option for the convention.
Hence, the sewjo for this project sparked a new light in me and I got right back into the groove of quilting this baby and getting it going in time for the convention. Whatever the motivation was, it worked and I pulled through and finished the jacket in time to wear it a couple of times even before having to pack it up and fly to Boise, Idaho for the sewing pro retreat.
Well, the convention was amazing and I got a ton of compliments on my jacket which I was proud (and perfectly comfortable) to wear. Now I call that a job well done and worth the wait!
It’s been far too long since I have posted anything here on my beloved blog, so I thought it was time to update and refresh with a quick post. What better way to do that with a bright and exciting project that I made for myself for our first wedding anniversary!
So, here she is:
Red maxi dress with flutter sleeve and sash
I cut out and sewed this dress in three days during time after work hours and the weekend before our dinner date, so it was a bit of a rush job. Due to lack of time and general dressmaking laziness, I didn’t make a mock-up, I just went by my body measurements, comparing to the pattern measurements, and a mini tissue fitting (essentially holding the pattern tissue up to myself and eyeballing what I needed to adjust). I added 4 inches to the skirt length knowing I wanted it to be long enough to wear with heels and for it to be floor length. I may add more length next time so it really touches the ground. I also fully lined it (the pattern instructs to just line the bodice) and made French seams for the skirt side seams.
I just love how this dress turned out! It was so comfortable to just slip into, strap on some heels, a pretty necklace and earrings, a dab of Miss Dior perfume at my neck, and DONE!
Yes, I realize that I match my front door.
I used this Simplicity 8832 sewing pattern, view C, for this dress. I just love the simplicity of this pattern (ha, haa, meant to do that) and the lines of the dress design:
Line drawings of Simplicity 8832 pattern
What I am NOT so crazy about is how they styled the pattern cover. I think they could have chose a different fabric, or had multiple versions made up in different fabrics, to show off the designs of this pattern:
Simplicity 8832 Sewing Pattern Cover
I hope that I am not coming off as a snob. My apologies if I am offending anyone, but I just looks a tad, I don’t know, “old lady shower curtain” to me in this particular fabric:
Don’t get me wrong, I love a beautiful floral fabric for a light and airy dress such as this, but I was going for a look more like this:
Dark green floral dress
Or even this:
Gorgeous burgundy velvet dress
I suppose I can chalk this one up as a wearable test dress and can plan to make it again in a more luxe fabric for the next time. That is part of the beauty of knowing how to sew and make your own clothes. You get to be the designer and create your own vision! I just love that about sewing and it brings me a great deal of joy and satisfaction.
Meanwhile, happy first anniversary to my loving, cutie-pie husband! It’s been a wonderful first year and I look forward to many, many more!
Back to the drawing board and up to the sewing room as I have a few exciting new client projects that I am working on. Yay!!!
I first discovered Studio of Art Patterns in early 2024 when I was asked to create 2 bridesmaids dresses with a quick turnaround through a referral from a wedding planner. I was delighted to have the gig and got started right away finding a pattern to create the 2 special occasion dresses having the same skirt style with different bodices using a lovely sage green silk charmeuse as the client requested.
I love to spend time looking at all kinds of sewing patterns, especially patterns that have the potential to turn out a beautiful result that looks like it came from a fancy boutique or bespoke design house. I like to collect these type of patterns, even if I won’t use them right away, or ever, just so that I can learn about how to construct and sew the details that make them unique or create those hidden details of a garment that are not immediately apparent.
After searching through my own pattern collection of formal dresses, as well as through the usual avenues of obtaining commercial patterns, searching on Etsy I came across this new-to-me pattern company, Studio of Art Patterns. They had a very good selection of formal dress designs to choose from with details and features not found in other commercial patterns for sale. The patterns didn’t have much detail to the Etsy description or the other pertinent information readily available, such as fabric yardage needed to create the design, unless, as I discovered, you purchase and download the pattern. They have, however, added a really cool feature to the pattern images of an AI generated video clip of the dress as it is worn on the runway. Amazing!
AI generated clip of one of the gown designs. SOLD!!!!
Once a pattern is purchased, they send you the PDF pattern and instructions to download and print at home or a copy shop. They include multiple size files and all of the information needed to construct the garment including a detailed size chart, suggested fabrics types including any interfacing, lining or stabilizing fabric yardage and notions needed, pattern cutting layout, and sewing instructions, and a few photos of a finished garment made from the pattern. The sewing instructions are quite sparse, somewhat confusing, and assume that you have a good amount of prior dressmaking experience and ability to construct a dress. In addition, the sewing terms and language are not always clear, there are no photos or illustrations of the construction process, just the step-by step words themselves, so you are somewhat on your own for figuring out the difficult parts, therefore these patterns are not for the beginner sewist by any means. However if you have any questions or need help with the sewing process, they are readily available to help and respond right away which is great.
Studio of Art Patterns, found only on Etsy at https://www.etsy.com/shop/StudioOfArtPatterns, is a small, woman-owned company that creates sewing patterns for the experienced sewist. As I’d love to support and promote this small, yet growing, business, and wanted to know more about them, I reached out to the shop owner, Anastasia, for more information about the company and she gladly replied with this to say:
Studio of Art Patterns – Our Story
Studio of Art Patterns has been creating and sharing sewing patterns on the Etsy platform since 2021, and our shop is only beginning to gain momentum. In this short time, we have published 281 modern patterns, including 125 wedding dress patterns, each offered in five sizes. Even an experienced professional sewist can appreciate the tremendous amount of work our small team has accomplished in such a limited period. Our team is made up of three passionate specialists: • Anastasia – graphic designer, assistant, and shop owner • Angelika – designer • Julia – customer service and marketing specialist Every day, we continue improving our products, but our main goal remains the same: to expand our collection with fresh, high-quality sewing patterns that have no analogues online. Our team carefully selects the most elegant and desirable garment designs and transforms them into detailed, professional patterns to help our customers create stylish and beautifully crafted pieces. At the moment, our patterns are available exclusively on Etsy. However, we are actively growing and working on launching our own website in the near future.
Going back to the bridesmaid dresses, we decided on this pattern, mostly for the draped skirt, and I would make the bodice in two different styles to attach to the same skirt for the ladies:
The dresses turned out satisfactory with the short time frame to complete and the fussy nature if the fabric, so I won’t go into much detail about it, but I wanted to share my moment of discovery of this amazing pattern company that led me here!
After completing the silk bridesmaid dresses, I went on to purchase and make several more Studio of Art patterns from their Wedding Dress category of designs. I will share the patterns and the creations I made from them, mostly making them just because I wanted to make them and show off the new skills I learned from constructing them:
Corset Bodice Slim Skirt Gown Made in ivory satin. Boned bodice with spaghetti straps and slim skirtI added a lace-up corset back to this dress patternI added a trumpet to the bottom of this skirt to this pattern to make a new design out of a sleek black leather-like satinThe lace up corset back allows for an easier fitPlunging neckline gown with skirt overlap opening.Made in a soft peach satin, I love how this gown turned out! The skirt side opening, the mesh side insets in the bodice, and it has pockets!74 self-fabric covered buttons adorn the center back seam into the trainCorset bodice with off shoulder puffy sleeve I made my version eliminating the corset and bra cup seams to keep the integrity of the toile print of the fabric. I also eliminated the bottom part of the sleeve and lengthened the skirt.Draped halter neck bodice gown with shoulder drape and low draped backMade in a stunning green silk satinThe open back with drape was difficult to do, but turned out really wellModeled here by the gorgeous Christine Lewy at my runway show at FashionXT 2025 in Portland, ORI added sleeves, lowered the back and added a little lower back bar to support the low back for this black wedding gown for a client.
I have since went on to purchase several more Studio of Art patterns with the intention of studying the pattern details, mixing and matching the details, and making them up as I get the opportunity. Some I got for a certain detail or technique that I’d like to learn how to do, some I like the entire dress and would make it as is. I have a few already in the works as I get the chance to print out the HUGE pattern pieces and cut them out, purchase the fabrics (each one takes lots of fabric!) and decide on the pattern adjustments I would like to make in order to make them with somewhat of a unique twist, if I can.
Here is my collection of Studio of Art patterns that I have become obsessed with, but have yet to make:
Basque waist ballgown with off shoulder lace sleevesDraped evening gownCorset bodice gown with flouncesOne shoulder gown with draped bowGown with overskirtlace overlay gownCape dressStructured draped gown with trainSeamed corset bodice gown with split skirtScarf and rosette collar gownV-neck gown with trainEvening gown with embroidery detailStrapless bodysuit and ruffled sheer overskirtMermaid strapless gown and ruffled sheer overskirtWrap dress with long bell sleeves
These are just a few of the patterns that Studio of Art patterns offer in their gallery of designs. They also offer more casual looks, athletic and kids patterns, so if you are curious or looking for something different to sew, definitely check them out!
Time to go sew a fabulous Studio of Art pattern and make another dream dress come true!
There is something just so fresh and cool about a white suit. It’s bold, bright and daring, but looks effortless and alluring.
I’ve been excited to add at least one pant suit and/or pant options to my bridal collection. A wedding ceremony is a perfect opportunity to wear such an outfit, whether it’s the bride or a wedding guest wearing this eye-catching combination.
So with about 5 yards of nice fabric including linen, rayon, tropical weight wool, silk or a blend, as long as it has a nice drape with a firm enough hand to endure the nature of the garments, you’re good to go! Oh, and interfacing, lining, buttons, a zipper, needles, thread, tailors chalk, a sewing machine, iron and all the other million little sewing tools, and about 20 hours of uninterrupted free time, then you’re good to go!
In 2024, I made this 3 piece white linen suit for my collection and runway show. I did a tailored blazer, wide leg trouser and a corset. It turned out great and looked amazing on anyone who tried it on:
White suit on MichelWhite suit on Orenda
The suit looks great on Michel, but it was way too big on her. It fit Orenda really well, so I asked her to wear the suit in my runway show, and now is the proud owner of the suit as she purchased it from me! So cool…
Orenda looks amazing! in this suit!
I wanted to try more versions of a white suit, so I made a new one. This time, I used a more fitted jacket pattern with a nipped in waist and strong shoulders.
I used Vogue Patterns once again, this time Vogue 2016 for the jacket and Vogue 9361 for the pants:
I love the lines of the blazer pattern with the seams, the pleat in the shoulder, the collar and the welt pockets with flaps. It was a difficult pattern to sew with all of these details, the lining and getting the whole jacket to look crisp, tailored and well made. The pants, although still tailored, were much easier to make in comparison.
Luckily, making them both straight from the envelope with no alterations, fit my model Tiffany perfectly and looks amazing in the photos we did at the planned photo shoot we had in early April:
With all this white pantsuit wonderfulness happening, I figured that I needed one for myself! Luckily, I was invited to participate in a fashion showcase at a fancy shmancy club in Portland where I could show come of my collection and have more exposure in my community, and the theme included wearing all white for the participants and the guests of the show. I shopped my fabric and pattern stash and happened to have enough white linen to make another pantsuit. Cool!
For me, I chose a jacket pattern that has an interesting tie closure for something a bit different from the usual blazer style. I, of course, referred to Pinterest for inspiration on the style and found some great examples:
TailoredDressyColors
I had this pattern from Butterick already on hand, perfect for the outfit:
Butterick 6820 Pattern
Perfect! The only thing I don’t like about the pattern is the fact that the jacket does not come with instructions on lining it. If I make it again (which I most likely will), I will draft a lining pattern for it to really elevate the look, have better structure, and be more comfortable.
Overall, I absolutely LOVE how it turned out!
The fashion showcase event ended up being cancelled (boo!). Although a major disappointment for myself and all who were participating, it was a great reason to make up this outfit as well as new pieces for the show, so not all was lost.
I hope to get the chance to create more outfits like these, either for clients, shows or for myself! I love to try new patterns, develop my sewing and tailoring skills, and create beautiful clothes that last and are enjoyable for the wearer. I know that I feel a boost of confidence when I am wearing something that makes me feel and look good and I hope to evoke that feeling for others through the garments that I make or alter. After all, my motto is Dream Garments Come True!
Yours, Truly, beaming with excitement, pride and joy, at my Love, Stephanie shop opening on January 6, 2024. Also wearing a new dress I made and a fascinator also made by me.
Foreshadowing at it’s finest!
When the inevitable New Year’s Day rolls around and we all need to pick ourselves up, start a new year, and think about what you’d like to accomplish in the next 12 months. Of course, this takes reflection on the year (or years) that just passed whether it was good or bad, and that could conjure up some feelings of many kinds.
As I write this blog as a personal journal, I feel the need to write down my thoughts whether anyone is reading it or not. I don’t aim to find the answers or get a response, I just want to write and get it all down while I am thinking of it for my own clarity and peace of mind.
First up: reflection. 2024 was a busy, eventful and educational year for me. There were some highlights that I would like to review in order to refresh my memory and keep me motivated. I am going to break the highlights of the year down by month as I go back over my calendar just to keep it in chronological order.
January
I had my grand opening party of the little shop-in-shop I set up at the hair salon Zen Salon at the Landing in Portland.
This was at first a great idea to have this shop as a place to meet clients outside my home and to also showcase some of my makes
This worked really well, for a while. I met some new clients at this shop for meetings and fittings, and displayed some dresses in the shop window, and gained some exposure. After a few months, however I wasn’t using the space as I thought I would, didn’t feel that I was gaining any new customers, and it felt a bit strange to be in someone else’s space with my stuff there taking up her space, so we discontinued the contract by the end of March.
That was all good as my business aspirations began to pivot come March…
January was actually a really good month in terms of new beginnings. I met some wonderful new clients and began to make plans to create new garments for them which was a great foresight to the year ahead! This, I feel, was attributed to all of the good “vibes” I was giving off and receiving beginning with the opening of the shop. So, maybe the shop was just a token of change, development and learning and just not the right timing for the concept, yet manifested into something much more. I’m going with that…
February
ASDP (Association of Sewing and Design Professionals) Strategic Planning Meeting takes place in Portland, OR. The annual ASDP conference is scheduled to take place in Portland, OR in October. I am on the Board for the group as VP of Communications and was also nominated the Fashion Show Coordinator for the conference. I really wanted to contribute as much as I could to making the conference the best we could, so I gave it my all (or what “all” I had available)
I balanced ASDP commitments, client meetings and deadlines, teaching sewing classes as well as finding time to spend with Tom and friends. The month flew by!
Went snowmobiling in Bend with our good friend couple-super fun
My dear aunt Marilyn sadly passes away 😦
March
Our kitchen renovation was underway and we had to deal with all of that mess and chaos
I took on a custom rush job for some silk bridesmaid dresses and matching neckties. I was approached to do the job through a wedding planner which was a first for me. That was quite exciting yet completely nerve-wracking. It was so wonderful working with the ladies, the pay was great, it really boosted my confidence, however the the results and outcome of the dresses for the April event were less than I had hoped and I ended up with a disappointed customer (the one with the checkbook, not the 2 bridesmaids; they were wonderful and gorgeous). I certainly learned from this!
I once again volunteered as an alterations seamstress for Abby’s Closet Prom Dress Giveaway for the 4th year. This is always fun and a whirlwind affair, and I am so happy that I can give back to others with the skill of sewing and alterations.
I agreed and signed the contract in March to have a runway collection show at FashionXT! This was a huge decision and a big chunk of money I took out from savings in order to do this, but it’s been a dream of mine to do, and with the encouragement and backing of Tom and my good friends, I decided that now is the time and went for it! I am so glad I trusted my gut and went for it!
I had more new clients requesting my services and plenty of deadlines to meet, but began to think of the months ahead and the time I would need to devote to making the collection. I decided I needed to halt all new requests (maybe a couple of irresistible ones sprinkled in!) and focus on what I need to do.
Paid off my car
Purchased a brand new industrial sewing machine and a new dress form
April
Planning for the collection begins
I created an outline, timeline and plan, on paper (and computer) and really wanted to make sure I had time to work hard, focus and do a good job
bought a new folder and notebook to keep all my notes and paperwork pertaining to FashionXT together. It’s a simple thing, but works for me and really kept me organized.
I began to make lists, spreadsheets and schedules of all sorts to keep my head straight
I met up with my good friends who are all very smart and have unique sense of style. We discussed my concepts for the collection to get their honest feedback and suggestions. I named the group the Fashion Femmes
I am a major procrastinator, but knew I did not have time for this nasty habit of mine and needed to really choose: prioritize & focus or fail.
I wrapped up several client deadlines and got them out of the way, so to speak.
I discontinued my contract at Zen Salon and did not book any new client meetings for alterations or custom work
Had an advertisement in LO Monthly magazine
Joined the Lake Oswego Chamber of Commerce
Launched ecommerce shopping availability on website beginning with tote bags-sold out! (actually I sold a total of 4 and gave away most of the others to friends).
May
Continued to work on client projects that needed attention, making mini-deadlines to keep on track
Continued to create fashion collection
Continued with teaching sewing lessons
June
Took and official sewing hiatus, solely focus on prepping for the collection
I got a lot of work done during this time, spending more than a week in Sunriver cutting and sewing
Attended the Portland Frocktails event that took place at Maryhill Museum. So fun! I wore the caftan I made and got a ton of compliments on it
Went out on the boat several times when we had time. Love that!
Had my dental implant complete, so glad to get that overwith
July
Mainly focused on sewing the collection, sewing every day, all day
Tom and I seriously considered buying a beautiful house out in wine country of Oregon, complete with it’s own little vineyard and huge garden with an amazing view of the mountains to die for. Dreamy to say the least, but the timing is just not right. Boo!
August
Took in an intern student from Portland Fashion Institute, Robbyn.
best decision EVER!
Robbyn came over once a week and helped me with marketing, creating content, as well as sewing. She took work home with her as well.
she made the headpieces for the collection
she is just amazing and so creatively gifted!
She kept track of her hours and I paid Robbyn for her time.
Robbyn was AMAZING! She was so helpful in so many ways. I could not have done it all without her.
Collection try-on session with friend Michel. She’s the bomb.com
I did take on a new custom bridal client at this time, Hannah, having our initial meetings and began to plan for her August 2025 wedding
Trip to Sunriver, kayaked the Deshuetes River with Tom. Super fun, and productive too!
September
5th wedding anniversary celebration with Tom
Met with my Fashion Femmes to go over my collection and see what might be missing or needed help
Prepped to be ready for the FashionXT model fittings
Model fittings 9/22
enlisted the help of Robbyn and Julie
really fun and exciting, the models were all gorgeous and amazing
After the fittings, made a plan to alter and revise anything from the notes
Continued to work on and finish the collection
Did a ticket giveaway for 2 tickets to my show at FashionXT.
Excitement and anticipation builds for the show coming up in October! EEEIIIKKK!
Got an invitation to participate in another fashion show happening in December for Fashion Cares which I accepted and paid for the entry
This was a smaller show, with alternative models and audience, but another opportunity to showcase my makes
All the while worked on deadlines and planning for the upcoming ASDP conference happening at the end of October
October
Runway collection fashion show at FashionXT happens Thursday October 3rd!
craziness, but so exciting
after all the planning, I made it all happen in time and on schedule. BOOM!
did a little interview with Inside Fashion Design at the show. It’s been posted on YouTube
Posted as much as I could on social media about my show and got lots of wonderful feedback
favorite looks were the Velvet Forest Bride, the ball gown, Lacey the fitted halter mermaid gown and the linen pantsuit and corset
I immediately began to think of what I wanted to do next: another collection, marketing and selling of the current collection, taking a break, trying to earn money to pay myself back, ALL of the things!
Tom’s birthday, nephews Nick & Coby’s 30th birthday
Met with Fashion Cares models to plan what to make for them or what they could wear from my current collection
ASDP Annual Conference happens 10/23-10/27
seems like a blur, but it was wonderful and I took some great classes
the fashion show was a hit, although a bit chaotic
Terri stays with us a few days and really helps me organize my fabric stash
accomplished part of a module towards my MSDP certificate with the fitting module & toile evaluation
I had a lot of fun, but glad its over
I am proud to be on the board and my position and input is valued
November
Made and met client deadlines
Made a few new pieces including a nice floral blazer
Fashion Cares show gets cancelled due to low ticket sales and not enough sponsorship
this was sad, but also a relief for my busy schedule
Hosted Thanksgiving
Conducted interview video with FashionXT marketing team about my experience as a designer in the show
December
Photo Shoot with FashionXT production for a lookbook of my collection
really great results, 100% worth the investment
photos to be used to boost my website and marketing
was a wonderful experience working with the stylist, photographer and beautiful models to get some professional shots
Hosted annual Christmas party which was a huge hit
Made some Christmas gifts including of 5 pairs of flannel PJ pants for family
My birthday 12/28!
Made a coat for myself
Made an outfit for New Years Eve, a lovely ball skirt worn with a lace top I made about 6 years ago. I also made a matching neck tie for Tom. I loved it!
Those are the highlights of 2024! I could go into way more detail, and I am sure that I probably missed a thing or two, but WOW, I got a heck of lot done! I know for a fact that I did not make nearly as much money or have as many clients as I did in 2023, therefore did not make my earnings goal for the year, but I feel the quality of my work definitely improved, the value of each project I did was more than I have done in the past, and what I accomplished will pay off somehow in the near future, so that is what was impactful to me. I am very proud of my hard work, dedication and accomplishments in the year of 2024 and am excited to meet and exceed my expectations for 2025.
With that, here are a few goals and aspirations that come to mind for the year ahead:
Finish up some unfinished personal sewing projects I have laying around that got bumped off the priority list
Refrain from starting a new project until an old one is complete
Go on a spending diet and build back my savings
Really focus on what I’d like to prioritize for what I want to make (sew) and how it will fit in to what I want to accomplish
Make a plan of action
Make a sensible business plan
Keep good financial records
Enter Threads Magazine Sewing Challenge
Try to complete MSDP Certificate through ASDP
Design and make another collection, this time using what worked well the last time and let go of the things that didn’t work
even if it never gets made, it’s good practice to plan and keep drawing out ideas
Clean up my website and refresh the content, keep it relevant
Invest in professional help for my marketing content, and sewing help when needed
Make my own patterns and designs, try to be different, unique and showcase my aesthetic
Be creative in other ways and my other interests besides sewing garments
embroidery, beading, fabric manipulation
sewing home decor, artistic creations, quilting, making my own textiles
drawing, painting, wood working, DIY home projects
gardening, cooking
exercise, getting outdoors, hiking, biking, long walks, go to the gym and use home exercise equipment
boating, kayaking, paddle boarding as much as possible: we live on a lake and have access to it literally in our back yard, so no excuses!
Read more books
Blog and write regularly
Play board games, card games and do puzzles for entertainment more frequently instead of watching TV
Plan a trip abroad
Dry January and beyond
Organize and purge
Wake up each day with gratitude and hopefulness
Help others less fortunate than me by volunteering and giving back
Happy New Year 2025 and may it bring great adventures and unexpected new experiences!
My birthday falls on December 28th, three days after Christmas and three days before New Years. Every year since I can remember, my birthday has either been extra fun and special or exceedingly forgettable and uneventful. I have learned to accept combination Christmas/Birthday/New Years gifts and wishes, wrapped in cheerful paper, re-gifted items unwanted from Christmas, a marked-down deal, or nothing at all. Time and maturity has made me accept this and embrace the holiday season with gratitude and grace.
I have sewed a record number of garments and other items in 2024, something in the ballpark of 40-50 things (some started and unfinished), not to mention alterations and repairs, plus sewing samples and mock-ups for clients, teaching sewing students, and sewing samples towards earning a professional certificate. That’s a whole lot of sewing projects! Most were successful, some were dismal, all I can chalk up to experience and development.
This year, I decided to make something special for myself for my birthday, using fabrics that I had been saving in my stash for just that, a special occasion. I wanted something that I would wear often and not just for one occasion, something practical yet fashionable, wearable yet unique, versatile yet not for everyday. So, I pulled out the 3 1/2 yards of a wonderful wool houndstooth I purchased several years back when I had a “real” job and disposable income, and dug up a fabulous red silk blend fabric I also had been stashing away for just the right project.
I got to work doing my research (aka Pinterest) on what type of garment I wanted to make. I had earmarked the houndstooth wool for a coat, and have many coat sewing patterns also in my collection, so a lovely warm and stylish coat was the main focus. I then was watching a sewing-related YouTube video (as I do daily as I am sewing) that was all about sewing the trends. The YouTube channel, Crumpets, Tea & Sewing hosted by Tea Ray-Grover, has many wonderful tips, suggestions and reviews about sewing, patterns, fabrics and ideas for the home sewist, and was also hosting a sewing challenge collaboration over on Instagram with other YouTubers aptly tagged #sewthetrends, so I figured why not challenge myself to sew up a current trend and enter it into the challenge, just for extra funsies!
I settled on this sewing pattern, Simplicity 9854. Its a relaxed fit, fully lined coat with a notched lapel collar and patch pockets with a flap:
This coat is not for everyone as it is oversized and boxy, and could overwhelm a petite figure or add bulk to a larger frame. I am pretty tall at 5’9″, so I feel I can pull off such a look, so I just went for it and cut out the pattern. Life is short, so why not!
Now, making a coat is not for the faint of heart, for any skill level of sewist. It is not all that difficult to construct (for those with a sewing experience) as most of the pattern pieces are large, however the precision of certain parts are where the sewing can get you. On top of all the bulk and weight of the pattern pieces and keeping track of what side of the fabric is which, as well as those other fiddly details, is what makes it a challenging undertaking. I feel those fiddly bits are what making a coat that much more rewarding when it is done.
So with about a week to make my coat before my birthday celebration of dinner out with close friends and family, I got to cutting out and making it.
One of the first steps to constructing the coat is making the pockets and applying them to the front panels of the coat. This pattern features patch pockets with a flap for the top opening of the pocket. I decided to go the extra step and line the pockets as the pattern did not include this. I feel that the pockets would be more comfortable and less scratchy when using them and also have a bit more stability with wear and tear on the loosely-woven fabric if they had a lining. So, I cut out matching pattern to the pocket in a light-weight satin, pressed in the edges, and hand sewed the lining in the wrong side of the pockets.
The pockets with the lining hand sewn to the wrong side, ready to be sewn to the outside of the front panel of the coat
After the pockets are made, the next step in the pattern instructions have you machine sew the pocket to the outside of the front of the coat using an edge stitch. I, however, decided to hand sew this part as well for best results. I know my machine, and with the thickness and bulk of this wool material, I knew machine stitching probably would come out really wonky, so the precision of hand sewing was the best option.
Hand sewing sometimes is the best bet for precision and invisible stitchesThe pattern matched perfectly!
It was then time to attach attach the lining to the facing of the coat. I chose this beautiful, bold red silk blend satin fabric for the lining which I think is my favorite part!
Love it! The lining is one of my favorite parts of making custom clothing. Coat in progress, hanging out in my studio with some of my dress collection…
So, after the under collar is attached to the main body of the coat, the sleeves are sewn together and then sewn to the armholes of the coat, then the upper collar is attached to the facing and the coat is sewn together at the outer edges of the coat. This step takes a while merely due to all the weight and bulk of the two layers of the coat going through the sewing machine and stitching should be slow and careful, not rushed. Inner seams of the coat need to still be accessed in order to anchor the two layers together at key points from the inside, as well as finish the hems of the sleeves and bottom of the coat with a neat finish. Ugh, a process, but we are SO close!
So once the coat is fully sewn together, turned right side out, under stitched where possible, and given a really good press, you are ready to do the finishing touches.
I happened to come across these cool square shaped buttons I had in my stash from Mood Fabrics (when I actually bought them is a mystery, but it must have been one of my trips either in Los Angeles or New York). Anyway, they were the perfect size and shape for the front of the coat.
Settling in to hand sew on buttons
And with that, my new coat was complete! Easy Peasy! I love it, it is warm, stylish and fits in so well with my mostly black wardrobe.
I’ll start with some inspiration photos of an oversized hounds tooth coat outfits I pinned on Pinterest:
It looks great with a black top and skinny “leather” pantsAnother outfit idea from PinterestThe pop of color inside makes me happy!
Sorry about the terrible background in these photos. We are constantly in “renovation” mode and have a ways to go, so hopefully you can “unsee” those ugly parts and look at my pretty new Birthday coat!
Making a fashion collection has always been a dream of mine. I did a small collection while in a fashion design program at Portland Fashion Institute (then called Portland Sewing) back in 2015, which was a great experience and a lot of work, however it was not even close to this amount of work, time and organization than this most recent undertaking. Also, when I look at other big designers collections and the unbelievable amount of time, money and effort it must take to do such a show, mine pales in comparison.
None the less, this was one of my biggest undertakings to date. I began by entering as a designer and signing the contract for FashionXT back in March for the show happening in October. Once I signed the contract and paid my submission fee, there was no going back.
Then the real work began! I asked a few friends if they would be willing to be my little support team, there to bounce ideas off of, help me make decisions, keep on track, and stay motivated. Early on, I held a meeting with them and shared my ideas and concepts for what I was going to make for the collection. I had some wonderful fabrics already, enough yardage of each fabric to make a big dress or a suit, and some style ideas already swimming in my head that I was dying to make up. I came up with a little line plan with simple sketches and brought my fabrics to show & tell over a brunch meeting, no husbands invited!
Giant Post-It Notes come in very handy for conceptualizing!
I sat down with my calendar and made a plan. I figured I had to make about a dress a week in order to meet the deadline of the show, then broke the days of the week into more goals and tasks, all because I know how much of a procrastinator I am, and always underestimate the time needed to make something.
Flash forward to show time, I nailed it in terms of timing! I was done with everything a couple of days before the show, and had the time to do any final sewing tasks, carefully steam out and pack up each dress and the accessories, and have them ready to transport to the show venue. I could relax, enjoy the night before the show, drink some wine, get a good night’s sleep, and really focus on my successes and on the Big Day the next day.
Flash Forward: The gowns are all packed and ready to go!
Back to the time being…then began the actual work of editing down to what makes sense, what flows together in a collection, and sticking to a theme. I began to conceptualize the collection with the one fabric that really spoke to me, a floral printed mikado (a type of satin) that I had purchased from Mood Designer Fabrics a few years ago. I just loved the colors and the “growing” effect of the print. I thought it would be a wonderful, big ball gown with a big skirt to show off the fabric. Hence, the Floral Garden Bridal Collection was born!
The floral mikado ballgown! Shown here completed, as well as a strapless top made in the same fabric and a wide leg pant.My fashion sketch for this gown
I made the gown with a strapless bodice, doing a folded side pleat instead of a dart or princess seams to ensure I didn’t have to cut into the fabric and break up the print. I used boning and interfacing inside as a layer to act as support, and also lined in a lovely ivory satin. The skirt was made by draping it on a dress form, creating large pleats and adding a triangular-shaped godet to the back of the skirt so that it formed a wider circle at the hem. I added side seam pockets as well, just for fun and convenience for the wearer. Also, I added a waist stay inside the gown, a belt-like support made using a sturdy piece of ribbon, sewn to the inside of the dress, worn snugly around the wearer’s waist and fastens with a hook & eye. This helps to support the weight of the skirt and helps to keep a strapless dress from falling down. I used a store-bought petticoat under the gown to support the bell shape.
The rest of the collection was all meant to circle back to this ballgown by use of a color pulled out from the print, or a shape from a flower. I made edits to my original line up, taking away a few ideas that didn’t really “go”, and adding a few that made sense to fill in the gaps.
One outfit that didn’t truly tie back to the dress was the white linen pantsuit and corset that I made. I made this outfit as I wanted to create alternatives for the modern bride to choose from, and figured a bride might not want a dress, or the ceremony is happening at the courthouse or she might want it for an event before or after the wedding yet still want to feel special and stand out.
For this outfit, I purchased an entire bolt of white linen from Joann Fabrics and chose to use a few commercial patterns that I have been wanting to make, the kind of patterns that are advanced level of sewing and take quite a lot of tailoring and couture sewing techniques to be successful.
The first pattern I tackled was the blazer jacket using Vogue 1870 view A:
Vogue 1870 Pattern View A
This pattern was a beast to make, but it turned out so sharp and really great looking! It’s fully lined with welt pockets and 2-piece sleeves. I’m pretty sure it is most likely a designer knock-off such as Gucci but I can’t be certain. Either way, I absolutely love it!
Once the jacket was complete, I went on to make the wide leg trousers. I used New Look 6769 pattern for the pants. Nothing crazy. I was going for simple, tailored and elegant with the wide leg and pockets, plus this pattern was super easy to sew. A nice refresher between to tough ones:
Then came the hard part: the corset. A zillion pattern pieces to keep track and labeled; the linen outer layer, the lining and the interfacing. Plus making the underwire and boning channels, and the bias strip that encased the upper and lower edges of the corset, and adding the front busk. Then there came the rivets! Ugh, lots of rivets. There are many, many corset sewing patterns out there to choose from, however I tortured myself by using an an advanced pattern, again by Vogue.
Vogue 1876 corset line drawingsThe Linen Pantsuit in ProgressThe Linen Corset in ProgressThe lovely interior of the corsetcovered buttons made for the jacketMy sketch for the outfit on the right, minus the blazer.
Next in line was the lace mermaid gown! I wanted to make a fitted, sexy dress, all in lace for the collection. I had many yards of this relatively inexpensive stretch lace in my fabric stash that would be perfect for this style. It’s not the highest quality lace, but I had already purchased it and it would do for the collection. It’s 100% polyester, so I decided to throw it in the laundry (gentle cycle) and see what happened. Well, it turned out just fine and softened up the fabric a bit, plus got rid of the slightly “plastic” smell.
I used this pattern from McCalls 7569 as a base and made many modifications, mostly to the interior construction of the dress and not as much as the style:
McCalls 7569 line drawingsCutting out the bodice frontTwo of the skirt panels and underliningCutting out part the bottom skirt flounce
I won’t bore you with ALL of the sewing jargon, details and construction modifications I did to make the dress from this pattern, but I will say that I made it MUCH better than the pattern instructed the sewist to do, and it turned out far better than I expected it to!
I called her Lacey
OK, for all you fellow sewing geeks out there, maybe just a quick list of how I made the dress differently from the original pattern:
I added a center back seam so I could put in a zipper
Fully lined and underlined the gown
Raised the center front keyhole neckline 4″ (too much boobage rarely looks good to me)
Added a dart to the back pattern pieces
Raised the skirt higher onto the bodice at the waistline
Added built-in bra cups
The following photos are from the dress nearly complete, yet I later made more changes to the fit once I had the model fitting (stay tuned for part 2 of this post).
Next up, as I did my best to make these garments and complete them as much as possible before moving on to the next one, is the Flutter gown.
A sketch of my Flutter gown
I wanted to create a gown with movement and romance, one that would appear to float on the bride. I had this lovely 3-dimentional mesh lace with sequins and little chiffon petals that looked like butterflies. I bought this fabric on clearance at Joann Fabrics over a year ago and knew I how I wanted to use it.
In order to make the color and shading of the fabric that I had better coordinate with the colors of the collection, essentially going back to the colors of the floral printed mikado, I decided to use a peach toned organza as a backing to the lace, creating a softer tone under the bright white of the lace. You can somewhat see what I am talking about in this photo where I layered the fabrics and draped them on my dressform:
the layer of peach organza fabric creates a softer hue under the white lace
I got to cutting out the 4 layers of this gown: the lace, the peach organza underlining, and 2 layers of a soft chiffon-like poly to be lining. That was a LOT of cutting, especially difficult were the large pattern pieces of the skirt and back of the skirt with a slight train. Keeping track of the pieces was important as they looked alike, especially the skirt front and side front pieces. I used a Burda sewing pattern to begin with, but made so many changes to it that I can’t really call it that pattern anymore.
Underlining each pattern piece with the peach organza was time consuming, but oh so pretty!
I wanted to use the same pattern again for another dress in the collection. I did this for two reasons: one was to create cohesion in the lineup, and the other, to save time. The cohesion helps the eye to recognize the similarity amongst the garments. I made essentially the same dress again, using a completely different fabric and lining. Most people probably would not recognize that the dresses come from the same pattern, but they may notice a familiarity.
3-D Lace Flutter GownVelvet Forest Bride Gown
For the Flutter gown, I ended up adding sleeves, so it looks oven more similar to the Forest Bride gown, but the two fabrics really make them unique.
Flutter 3-D GownForest Bride Velvet Gown
These two gowns were some of my favorites from the collection! I just love how the dress hugs the torso and waist, then gently flows over the rest of the body. The long slit in the skirt allows her to walk easily and exposes the beautiful lining. The sleeves are romantic bell shape (Forest also has a cuff at the end of the sleeve), and protects her from a chilly evening in the garden. I made a point to make these gowns with really nice details including lovely linings, luxurious materials, and matching hair accessories.
Speaking of the amazing headpieces made by my amazing intern Robbyn, there is so much to say, I have to save it for it’s own section. So, stay tuned for more on the wonderful handmade hair accessories and hats later!
The beautiful Stella came next!
Stella the Slip Dress (please excuse the naked mannequin in the back!)
I wanted a sexy slip dress style for the collection, and thought I already have plenty of white dresses, why not have some pink for a pop of color. I brought a large swatch of my floral printed ball gown fabric to the fabric store, pulled out one of the colors from the print, and purchased 6 yards of material plus 5 yards of rhinestone trim for the straps.
picking out fabric for Stella at the fabric store
Pink looks really good on most skin tones, and this fabric is a super soft sand washed rayon that mimics silk in the best way, perfect for a slip dress! I actually would have loved to have a few bridal nightwear lounge slip and robe sets to show, but not enough time for that! Next time!
I made this dress using another commercial pattern, this time a Simplicity pattern from the late ’90’s or early 2000’s, which I’ve had in my pattern collection for years (decades perhaps?):
Simplicity 3735
I love the design details of this dress pattern, especially the back with the low cut of it and the beautiful strappy details. So to bring this lovely gown up to what I was looking for to add to the collection I made a few adjustments to the pattern.
I skimmed out the sides of the skirt part of the dress to make it more body hugging (figure flattering) and not the A-line shape that hangs from the waist as the photo suggests.
I lengthened the hemline and added more of a slight train to the back of the dress (who doesn’t like a little train drama, right?).
I fully lined the dress instead of making a facing around the neckline. I hate facings and would rather make it fully lined (fellow dressmakers catch my drift).
The rhinestones! The gorgeous, beautiful rhinestone trim was a pain in the butt to sew on to each strap, but it looks SO pretty! Totally worth the extra 4 hours to hand sew…
The back of this gown is so lovely!
The low back and strappy rhinestone straps of this gown are “mwah!” chef’s kiss!
I wanted to include some accessories with the collection, giving the potential wearer options. I opted to make a little faux fur shrug (a cape-like little jacket type of garment) to cover her shoulders in case of a little chill in the air (personally, I hate being cold and always have a jacket or cardigan on hand just in case…):
Once Stella and her shrug were complete, it was time to move on to the next look in the lineup and keep up with the pace of my timeline.
I wanted to have options for a bride, and find that dressy jumpsuits are appealing to many. I wanted to create something romantic and flowy in a lovely swishy fabric.
This illustration is one of many that I did with the vision of a bridal, or dressy, jumpsuit as an option. I love a simple bodice, defined waist, and a wide leg pant. I added a big side sash detail for drama and to act as sort of a train.
When choosing a pattern for this, I went for one I had in my collection, McCall’s 8313, to create the look:
The pattern envelope really isn’t exciting or inspirational…
The line drawings are also not the greatest, however view D would work for me
Of course, I made changes to the pattern including cutting the front bodice out on the fold instead of having a center front seam. Also I fully lined the entire jumpsuit to avoid seeing through the garment and to give it a more “luxe” feel. I made a matching sash and slapped on some of my embellished tulle to act as a detachable train.
The jumpsuit conceptualizing process…Kayla rocks it at the model fitting!
As much as I wanted this jumpsuit to be really amazing and create a “wow!” moment, it turned out to be my least favorite in the collection if I’m honest. It just didn’t turn out as well as I wanted it to. Sure, it was fine and worked out for a look, it just wasn’t as refined and elegant as I hoped it would be, but I didn’t have time to start all over with it and make a different one, so it would just have to do. Meh…
The next dress I totally procrastinated on cutting out and making, however was one of my favorite concepts and really lovely fabric choice. I named it Laticia as I felt the fabric reminded me of a lattice feature that you would see as part of the décor in a beautiful garden:
I wanted to have one option in my collection with an overskirt as I love the idea of a transformation in the bridal outfit. She could wear the overskirt for walking down the isle, then remove the overskirt and reveal a lovely sheath dress underneath for the reception. Genius!
Part of the reason for the procrastination on this dress is I had to take extra care to cut out the fabric, perfectly aligning the motif design of the gorgeous sequin embellished delicate lace mesh:
Cutting out the pattern carefully on the lace
I hade to also add extra panels of the material in order to have the motif go all the way to the bottom of the dress which I sewed on by hand. Then, I made an under dress and lining in a flesh tone that was strapless, so boning and hidden structure were key to keeping it looking refined. The zipper was last and the most annoying part of this dress. It all turned out super pretty, but ugh, a LOT of work! Again, could have been a LOT better in my opinion, but I got it done and managed to squeeze it on to the model Grace at the fitting:
Grace looks FAB in Laticia! She loved it! I just had to make a few adjustments and finish the hem.
I couldn’t have a bridal collection without the big finale look, so I added a dress to my line up with another ballgown in a very pale peach toned satin. I used a wonderful pattern from Studio of Art Patterns which I found on Etsy. It featured a mesh insert bodice, wide waistband, a gorgeous open slit in the skirt, pockets and a train. I also opted to add little covered buttons, 72 of them to be exact (thank you Robbyn for making all of those little suckers!), all the way down the center back of the gown.
One of many lovely sewing patterns from Studio of Art Patterns on Etsy
This pattern, although gorgeous, was a bear to sew. It’s one for advanced sewists who are experienced with dressmaking and can figure out construction steps without a lot of guidance or direction. The instructions were minimal and the pattern pieces are enormous, so just handling it and keeping the pieces marked and in order are of utmost importance and added to the pain in the assery of it.
Sewing on 72 tiny covered buttons by hand down the center back of the gown, perfectly spaced 1″ apart, took hours…not to mention also sewing on the lace appliques to the waistband, that took days…It has pockets!
As much of a major pain in the ass this gown was to sew, I did really enjoy the process, I learned a few new things, and she turned out quite beautifully. She really is so elegant and dreamy! She reminded my intern Robbyn of delicious wedding cake frosting which I can totally relate to (yumm, cake!)
I named her Sophia! So pretty!
OK, well that wraps up the 9 looks I had walk the runway for my Floral Garden Bride collection! I wanted to share and document my thought process for each look, so this was a long post. It took me a while to collect my thoughts, organize the photos and write this all down, therefore more than a month after the show has passed and I am still not finished!
In Part 2 of this post, I’ll share more about the finishing touches and the day of the runway, so look out for that coming in the near future.
I gasped out loud when I was contacted through my Yelp profile: a mother of a bride was asking if I could create a kimono-style, robe like top for her daughter who was getting married. She sent over some inspiration photos and asked how much I would charge to make a similar garment:
This made my heart skip a beat!I also love this gown!
Wow, I thought, I love that idea of a fancy kimono style top to wear for the wedding! I love kimonos and robes and have made many of them over the years, but never a bridal one such as this.
The client bride Brittney already had purchased the fabric she wanted the robe made out of: a mesh tulle type of fabric with mushrooms of various sizes embroidered to the fabric and embellished with little sparkly sequins. So pretty!
The fabric!
She also wanted fringe trim added all around the edges of the kimono for more drama and movement:
I ordered 8 yards of this trim, first getting a swatch to check the color
Brittney is quite the creative type of lady as you might have already guessed, and was doing as much DIY for her wedding as possible. She made the invitations, the designed the floral arrangements and dyed the table cloths. She also wanted to use the fringe yardage she bought and try to dye it to match the fabric of the kimono. Meanwhile I ordered some swatches of fringe trim from Etsy and found this perfect match, which we ending up going for.
I had a pattern in mind for the kimono, Simplicity 1108, one that I had made before and could change up a bit to suit her needs:
Using view C of the pattern, I cut it a little shorter and made the sleeve more of a triangular shape instead of a rectangle. I didn’t even bother making a mockup of it as it was so loose fitting and easy to change up a bit to fit as needed.
She and her mom came over several times for planning and fittings which was really fun! We had a great time playing with the ideas for the look, and talking about the wedding plans.
At a fitting with the original fringe. Brittney deciding how long she’d like the sleeve to be, before the fringe was added.
She had a little slip dress to wear under the kimono that she got for a very good price, and decided to purchase another dress to use for additional fabric to make a matching sash to cinch in the waist. So, I made her two belts, one skinny and one wide, so she could choose what felt better for the look.
The kimono was coming along so well and we all were excited for the end result! I loosely sewed (basting stitch) the fringe trim by hand to the outside edges of the kimono. That took forever! Once the length and shape of the edges of the top were confirmed by Brittney, then I cut away the excess fabric and more permanently sewed the fringe on my sewing machine. That also took forever to do as I had to sew very carefully the trim to the edge so as to catch the slippery top edge of the fringe to the narrow hem opening of the sheer mesh kimono fabric, all without catching any fringe edge in the stitches or get caught in my sewing machine. Tedious work to say the least!
The fringe all sewed on to the edges of the front and sleeve of the kimono.
Brittney was getting really excited about wearing it for her wedding! I really loved how it was coming along as well, and decided that I wanted to make another version of the same concept for my own collection. I purchased enough yardage of the mushroom fabric and fringe trim, as well as fabric to make the under dress, to later make a version of the outfit for my upcoming fashion show and to display as an example of my work.
Looking so good!
Come the big day, Brittney was simply radiant in her bridal ensemble! It was perfect for her style, and a unique garment that could be worn again and again for other occasions. I am so happy they came to me for her special custom look for her wedding! It really brings me joy to make someone’s special occasion all that more beautiful!
Mom helping Bride to get ready. How fabulous does she look!What a cool couple!Love!
Another happy day and successful creation! I love my job….
I am no business expert, but I have learned a thing or two about running a small business since I went full time as a entrepreneur nearly two years ago. I have learned that it takes long hours, major sacrifices, dedication, hard work and finding ways to get things done faster, better and more efficiently all while trying to spend less money and earn more.
That’s me: Boss Babe Stephanie showing off some of my work!
I am very proud of my business and what I do. I am a designer seamstress and dressmaker, creating custom garments for ladies focused on special occasion, bridal and tailored apparel and offer bridal alterations. I have managed to grow a client base, hone in on couture and quality sewing techniques, get the word out on what I do, decline work that doesn’t fall into my specialties or timeline (or that I simply don’t want to do), open a little boutique space outside of my home, price my products and services accordingly, earn more money year over year, and become better and more experienced with each job that I take in.
I have paid off all of my debt, paid off my car in full, and have a little chunk of savings in the bank that I would like to invest back into in my business.
I need a plan!
It’s now up to me to work on my business plan and focus in on how to grow my custom sewing & dressmaking business. I need to sit down and figure out the smartest means where I should invest my money, and that starts with a plan. I have read several books and articles on running and growing a small business, now I need to take what I have learned and apply it to my situation.
A quick shot of me and a couple of dresses I made back in 2012
Although I can’t do all of my ideas with the budget that I have, here are some of the specific ones that I have thought about that I can invest in to make my business run smoother, more efficiently, and make a profit:
*new sewing equipment, namely an industrial sewing machine
*take on an intern or part-time contract employee
*hire a professional accountant to handle business finances
*physically (and mentally) declutter & organize
*automate scheduling
*improve website
*invest in and create sellable inventory-manufacture a small collection
*invest in marketing and advertising
*hire a professional photographer
*market and target customer research
*research and development
*foster newness and excitement
*continued education
*travel
*learn from those who are more skilled and experienced than I am
*hold events to attract new clients, thank existing and previous clients
*network
Me and my models walk the runway in my Love, Stephanie designs 2016
Do you have any good advice for growing a business, taking it to the next level with smart investments? Has something worked for you, or held you back from success? I’d love to learn more about it and try to figure out the best ways to take my business to the next level.
Me finishing up gown I made in 2023 for a special lady Michel. She said to me recently “I don’t think I’ve ever felt that gorgeous in a piece of clothing”. Words to live by!
I know I need help and can’t do alone. I also know that there are success stories and big dreams can come true, it just takes hard work, smart decisions and perseverance. And a plan.
This Boss Babe is ready for business!
Meanwhile, I’ll keep on plugging away at my existing client needs, holding up my end of the agreement, while trying to create newness and examples of my potential and sharing with my audience. Soon I will be posting about some lovely projects that I have been working on, but have to hold back the excitement until the client’s special occasion occurs so not to spoil the surprise.
Photo shoot dream project come true of a custom gown I made for lovely Payton. More please!
Life is short, time is limited, and I want to make a difference and impact in this world and in the lives of others. Even just a small part, a little influence, make someone smile and feel beautiful in what they are wearing.
That’s all I want out of this life, at least business-wise. I feel strongly that what you wear says a million words and evokes a thousand emotions. So why not that be me to make that a reality!
When the days are cold, dark and long, the calendar is looking bleak, and my bank account running on low, as with many, I find it quite difficult to find any motivation to go on. I often think to myself, I should just go out and get a “regular” job, show up to work, and collect a paycheck like everyone else does. Then I think again and say to myself, “No way! I am NOT giving up on my dreams!”.
Visual aids such as this help to get my creative mojo going
This is when finding inspiration and motivation to go on is at it’s peak, at least for me. Sometimes I have to dig deep to find some sort of reason to lift myself up. It may be simply financially driven as the bills are due and I need to earn money. I find that I need to take on sewing jobs that I normally would turn away like hemming jeans, fixing repairs, or take in a menswear alteration.
Hemming is boring, but lucky for me, a necessity for most.
Taking on sewing classes helps to bring in a regular paycheck, but it eats into my productive time and also means commuting (yuck). During the slow times may mean doing some marketing, promotions, advertising and work on my social media posts to boost awareness and draw in new business.
An advertisement I had near the end of 2023 in a local publication. This really boosted awareness, inquiries and website clicks, but only had a small ROI
When business is slow and work requests are few and far between, I dig into my own projects and UFO’s (un-finished objects) to try to finish them or revisit a sewing wish list from the past.
Working on a baby quilt project during a snowstorm in Oregon, one of many UFO’s started months ago
I do like to make lists. All kinds of lists. And I write them down in different places and formats. For example, I jot down a daily to do list on a notepad when I am really busy or have a lot to accomplish in a day or week; on printer paper pinned to my corkboard in my sewing studio, I make a list of the current custom client projects that I have going on and cross them off as I finish them; we make grocery shopping lists on a sticky notes; a “honey-do” list for projects around the house on a dry-erase board we have in the kitchen. I keep a teaching notebook where I jot down ideas for my students, essential sewing tools to have in their kits, things I want to be sure to demonstrate in class, and good quiz questions to ask them to keep them on their toes.
Making lists keeps my head straight
I own several sketchbooks in various sizes around my house or a tiny one in my purse to draw out fashion designs I have in mind that I want to create. I have many other types of lists from annual grand sewing aspirations to step-by-step garment construction tasks for a specific project, or even to what to bring on vacation list added to my cell phone Notes app. At times, I have so many ideas and goals I want to get to swimming around in my head, that it keeps me up at night and I have to get up and write them down on a notepad I keep in my night stand so that I can relax and sleep in peace.
An example of my note taking, list making and sketchbook routine one morning over coffee
From the lists, notes and sketches that I have created and saved over the years, I go back and look at them regularly to refresh my memory on things I want to accomplish and get inspiration to start a new project. I have significant goals and aspirations for my lifetime, but nothing too colossal. I don’t need to be rich and famous (Well, being rich wouldn’t suck. Famous? Meh). I just would like to make some sort of difference during my lifetime, leave some sort of mark on life and the lives of others. I’d like to leave a positive remembrance behind as I don’t have any children. I suppose that remembrance of me will consist of the special things that I have created for myself and others, the small difference I made to the fit of a special garment for someone, or the way that I may have made them feel or think about by teaching something, a thoughtful gesture or writing that I have come up with.
Then there comes the hard part: accomplishing. Finding the motivation and drive to get things done is the biggest hurdle for me. I don’t consider myself a lazy person, and find it rare to be bored. I just tend to dream big and then majorly procrastinate with making the dreams a reality. Making the deadlines for client projects are the top priority and have little room for negotiation, so I HAVE to make the time for them, especially brides. It’s all of the rest of the projects, goals and aspirations that get tossed around, started, passed over, not finished or ignored completely.
Problem solving for brides is #1
So where do I find inspiration and the motivation to get things done? I have a few means to get myself inspired that usually work for me: I start with books and magazines. I love a good book whether it be a great novel, a big colorful book about a famous designer, artist or sewing or cooking technique, or a travel destination that I aspire to see. A trip to the library or bookstore is exciting to me. I can spend hours browsing through the topics and occasionally I pick up a good read to bring home to add to my collection.
I love books, and the bookshelves I have invested in to display my collection
Magazines have always been an attractive means of getting information and inspiration for me with the glossy pages, large ads and interesting articles. I have accumulated a collection of fashion and interior design publications and save the ones I find most interesting. I have pages torn out of spreads or articles that I wanted to keep which I store in page protectors and binders full of them from decades back that I like to flip through on occasion to remind myself of styles and images that I love.
These are just a few of my magazines. Please ignore the ancient wine stain on the dingy white carpet-we desperately need new flooring!
Of course, a trip to a museum or art gallery really gets my mojo going. Luckily in the city of Portland and surrounding towns, there are plenty of opportunities to find exhibits, shows, events and shops where other creative and talented people display their work. Art exhibits, public sculptures, murals, gardens and home tours happen year round. I recently went to the Portland Art Museum (twice actually) to see the African Fashion exhibit which was marvelous! It was such a treat to see the work and creative expression of colors, texture and interesting garment making techniques. I came home feeling like I, too, could create garments that have such vibrancy and expression, if I set my mind to it and put in the time.
A few of the amazing garments at the African Fashion exhibit at Portland Art Museum
Now, with a coffee refill in my mug, and a healthy to-do list in front of me, I can go on with my day and get cracking on my goals and priorities that need my time and attention. Writing down my goals and sharing my aspirations with dear friends and family, as well as my blog readers and followers, helps keep me in check and on task to reach them, so thank you. I hope that this little check-in also helps you to find motivation to be creative, to set goals, make a plan, and to go for it! We will all be better humans for feeling that sense of accomplishment and pride.
As I pack up the Christmas decorations and make new lists and goals for 2024, I like to take a moment to reflect on the year of 2023 in the first few days of the new year.
Happy New Year 2024!
2023 overall was a very busy year filled with new adventures, many successes and several failures. I made LOTS of clothing including dresses, blouses, skirts, jackets, tops, pants, coats, menswear, accessories, pajamas and a few home decor and gift items. I made things for clients, myself and for family & friends. Lots of alterations came my way from beautiful bridal gowns, tailored suits, dresses, separates, added embellishments and more! Some big successes, some major disappointments and most somewhere in between.
Cheers Friends!
If I look at strictly business results, I would consider the year to have been the best yet for Love, Stephanie. I met many new clients, had several returning clients, and lots of clients come to me through referrals and word of mouth. I also was able to have a couple of small advertisements with links to my website in a local publication which definitely gave a boost in interest in what I was up to and several inquiries for custom sewing and alterations. Many of the clients heard about me through social media, a Google search and even via Yelp which all ultimately directed them to my website lovestephanieappparel.com.
Speaking of my website, I was able to make updates and improvements by myself or with the help of a paid webmaster. One of the biggest improvements came from using images from a photo shoot I had in April. For months I planned this photo shoot complete with a gorgeous gown that I made, a lovely model (my friend’s daughter), a pro photographer (also a good friend), a team of assistants and makeup artists (more friends) at an amazing location out in Central Oregon. It was an entire planned process from the mood board, meetings, sewing, fittings and travel, and was an amazing and fun job to accomplish that I want to do on an annual basis!
Behind the scenes at the photo shoot: so fun!
Maintaining the website took work and attention. I added new photos of my work, maintained (and raised!) my prices, updated contacts, and created links to this blog (trying to keep up with the blogging isn’t easy!) and my other social media profiles, as well as keep my audience engaged with my newsletter and blog posts. In 2023 I had record traffic on my site. See below for some interesting analysis!
I keep track of all of my income and numbers as they happen on my computer so that I can keep on eye on progress and be prepared for filing taxes. Although I don’t consider myself a “numbers” person or have the ability to make big bucks or manage to keep myself on budget, I do like to analyze the numbers and try to figure out what the numbers are telling me, thanks to my employment history in retail, buying and sales analytics. So getting into some statistics, here are some of the results of my year in business and web analytics:
2023 Love, Stephanie Analytical Breakdown
Income 2019-2023 an increase of 14.5% over LY, +509% over 2019!
# of Individual Clients:
2023: 65
2022: 52
Variance: up +25%
Income by Client Type:
Client Type Pie Chart
Client type consists of the type of sewing I was commissioned to do for clients, including alterations (bridal and otherwise), custom sewing creations and the bridal alteration fee I charge for a bridal fitting appointment.
Now, for some website stats to share looking at the entire year of 2023 (Source: Wix):
Site Sessions year over year: 1,023, up +67%
Unique visitors: 801, up +57%
Website visitors by month
Looking at the chart you can see the big spikes occurring in website traffic over the year. My reasonings for the spikes is when I posted new photos and content, sent out a newsletter, made an announcement, attended an event, handed out business cards, posted advertisements in the local publication, and search inquiries before and during prom and bridal season when people are most likely looking for a seamstress to hire for alterations and custom sewing. That big spike in November is when I announced the opening of my new studio location. This coming Saturday 1/6/24 is the grand opening of the location, so exciting things are coming my way, I can just feel it!
My poster design for the new studio
More Web Analytics (source: Wix)
2023 Year to Date Traffic Sources
Looking at the top traffic sources to my website, Google takes the lead with the most referrals, up a whopping +137% over LY and 40% of the total leads! I have a Google page for my business Love, Stephanie. Click on the link to see my page where I post about what services I provide, the area that I serve, photos of my work and reviews from my clients.
My profile photo on Google-one of my faves taken by my husband Tom
Clearly that is working and people are able to find out about me by a Google search. The other sources seem to be working as well, including people directly typing in my web address to find me which is quite nice!
Mobile vs. Desktop site sessionsNew vs. Returning site visits
Teaching sewing classes has also boosted awareness for my skills and abilities. Although most of my students aren’t looking for a seamstress to create things for them to wear or alter their clothing, they are curious to learn how to sew, know more about me, they check out my credentials, look into my educational and work background and follow me on social media. All of which can turn into leads, recommendations and future business, or even potential future employees or interns when the need arises, so I encourage them to go check me out and keep in touch.
Some students have left me great reviews and seek out assistance after class has ended if they are stuck with a sewing question, and sometimes even share their sewing successes and progress which is absolutely delightful!
Students in my Couture Sewing class!
I also find that wearing my makes out to events, parties, classes, meetings or just around running errands helps to spread the word. I often get stopped by someone who admires my outfit, wondering where I got it which is an amazing and flattering feeling! I carry business cards with me wherever I go, and hand them out to anyone who asks.
My business card front and back
So all of the time I spend making my own outfits has definitely helped build my skills and confidence, allowed me to make mistakes and learn from them on myself, as well as boost self-advertising. Plus I have built (and will continue to create) a wardrobe of clothing that I enjoy wearing and is uniquely mine!
Me wearing an entire outfit of clothing I made, and happens to be the final makes of 2023 for New Year’s Eve!
Goals for 2024
As I look ahead for the next year and beyond, I have made some goals to grow and build business based on successes, as well as learning from failures:
-Beat LY’s numbers!
-Create dynamic marketing strategies using social media
-Develop compelling marketing and advertising campaigns
-Take better photos, create interesting video content
-Plan an on-location photo shoot with my apparel, a model, a pro photographer
-Maintain website with fresh ideas, set up online e-commerce shop, SEO
-Reach new clients and retain past ones
-Maintain detailed client list and build client database
-Build client analysis data for more charts and graphs
-Network, attend events, make connections
-Utilize new store front space to meet clients, display merchandise, host events, grow client base
-Create a business plan including plans to grow and build a line with steady inventory
-Organize schedule and client meeting calendar, time management
-Organize and maintain a clean work space-
-Use materials and supplies I already own, reduce and avoid spending on new ones
-Continue and grow contributions and efforts to ASDP board member responsibilities as VP of Communications
-Complete MSDP Sewing and Design Professional Certification
-Research and develop sewing skills namely tailoring, couture sewing, intricate details, pattern making and embroidery
-Keep up with fashion trends as well as continue to study fashion history
-Create beautiful, high quality garments that I have designed and sewn
-Complete garments that I have started
-Enter sewing and design challenges and fashion shows
-Offer excellence customer service and do my best possible work with each client
-Continue to teach others sewing and making clothes
-Continue to draw and create fashion illustrations
-Manage stress through healthy eating, exercise and work/life balance
-Smile, be kind to others, love one another, and be grateful for the life and opportunities that I have!
Nicole is a special client who heard about me through word of mouth (one of the best ways to gain new business in my opinion!). She reached out to me, sending me a message on Instagram, looking to have a coat custom made for her. She knows how to sew, which is so incredibly flattering that she asked me to do this project, however did not want to take on this big of a project for herself and felt it best to leave it to an expert.
She wanted a dressy coat to wear this winter as for her job she appears in court at times and attends executive meetings often and wanted a really nice coat to wear that makes a statement and can make the outfit, so to speak.
I was so excited that she asked me to take on the task! I got to work right away finding out what her desires were, finding inspirational photos and images, searching through patterns, and creating a PowerPoint presentation much like a mood board to present to her over an online zoom meeting.
Girl Boss prepped and ready for the Design Meeting on Zoom
I like to do these presentations for clients to show them my thought process and what I am able to achieve for them. I include images, features and benefits of patterns I have chosen, fabrics, key dates, deadlines and a working timeline, and my estimated price, all in one presentation. We go over the slides, discuss the options and make decisions together. Then I take that information and get to work. It works out great for me as I can organize my thoughts and demonstrate what I can do for them, and my clients love it and feel that I take them seriously and really care about making their project special and personal.
After going through her inspirations, patterns and examples of coats that I have made, Nicole decided on this dressy coat pattern that came out in Fall 2021 from Butterick Patterns:
Butterick 6868 coat pattern
I love this pattern! It features lovely fit and flare princess seams in the front and back of the coat, creating a vintage-inspired swingy look. The shawl collar, angled sleeve cuffs, welt pocket flaps and covered buttons are made in a contrast fabric for an elegant touch.
The line art for Butterick 6868 View A
This style of coat is reminiscent of the beautiful coat and matching dress that Jill Biden wore for the Presidential Inauguration. Her elegant outfit was designed by Gabriella Hearst and is now featured at the Smithsonian along with her other outfits worn on that day:
Jill Biden wears a dressy coat and matching dress designed by Gabriella Hearst on Inauguration Day January 2021
After taking Nicole’s measurements, purchasing the pattern and cutting out the pattern pieces, I made up a muslin mock up of the pattern and had Nicole come and try it on. She wanted the neckline raised a few inches, so this was nice to get and idea of how that would look:
Although it sort of looks like a lab coat, the pattern fits pretty well just out of the envelope! The princess seams really create a lovely shape over her figure
Nicole attended the Sewing and Quilting Expo in Puyallup, WA and purchased a beautiful cherry red wool yardage for her coat. She brought me the whole bolt, and we also went fabric shopping together, choosing the lining and contrast trim fabric for the design. She chose a lovely animal printed faux fur for the contrast trim and a caramel brown rayon for the lining. So elegant!
Color matching the thread to the coat material
After the fitting of the muslin mock-up and making a few tweaks to the pattern, I cut out and sewed up the main shell of the coat for her to try on for fit and to see the coat partially made:
The coat partially made, ready for a quick fitting
Once Nicole was good with the progress, I set up my sewing machine and got to work finishing the coat. Hours were spent cutting the lining, constructing the collar, cuffs and pocket welts out of the faux fur (that stuff makes a huge mess and gets everywhere!) and making the cute covered buttons:
The fur covered buttons look like little fuzzy critters!
I installed the welt pockets which I think were the most difficult part of the coat. They had to be at the same exact spot on the coat, and the same exact size and shape to look right. Cutting into the fabric right on the outside of the panel of the coat was nerve wracking to say the least! There is NO room for error and you can’t “un cut” it to correct any mistakes.
The fur trim looks SO good, but is definitely a pain to work with
The fabric is heavy and thick, leaving bulky seams to deal with and the need to hand sew in many spots to have the best results.
Sewing on the covered buttons was challenging!
My favorite part of making custom clothing for clients are the special touches I like to add to the project. For Nicole, I added a faux leather piping trim to the inside of the coat between the facing and the lining. This adds no purpose to the construction, just a little finishing touch and pop of color and texture to the inside of the coat:
Black piping added to the inside of the coat sandwiched between the lining and the facingSewing the lining hem by hand took about an hour, but so worth it!
Since I wanted to add another personal touch to the coat and I have the right machinery and plenty of thread, I decided to add a fancy embroidered monogram to the inside lining at the back of the coat, a secret little feature that she will see every time she slips on this beauty:
An embroidered monogram inside the coat for that special touch
After months of work, hours spent sewing by machine and by hand, and physically managing this big project, it turned out beautifully and I am proud as well as excited to hand it off for her to wear and enjoy!
Her lovely coat is complete!The shape is so elegant, timeless and tailoredShe’s ready for her entrance!
Ode to Sew 