Tag: sewing pattern

  • Studio of Art Patterns: A Discovery of Greatness

    Studio of Art Patterns: A Discovery of Greatness

    I first discovered Studio of Art Patterns in early 2024 when I was asked to create 2 bridesmaids dresses with a quick turnaround through a referral from a wedding planner. I was delighted to have the gig and got started right away finding a pattern to create the 2 special occasion dresses having the same skirt style with different bodices using a lovely sage green silk charmeuse as the client requested.

    I love to spend time looking at all kinds of sewing patterns, especially patterns that have the potential to turn out a beautiful result that looks like it came from a fancy boutique or bespoke design house. I like to collect these type of patterns, even if I won’t use them right away, or ever, just so that I can learn about how to construct and sew the details that make them unique or create those hidden details of a garment that are not immediately apparent.

    After searching through my own pattern collection of formal dresses, as well as through the usual avenues of obtaining commercial patterns, searching on Etsy I came across this new-to-me pattern company, Studio of Art Patterns. They had a very good selection of formal dress designs to choose from with details and features not found in other commercial patterns for sale. The patterns didn’t have much detail to the Etsy description or the other pertinent information readily available, such as fabric yardage needed to create the design, unless, as I discovered, you purchase and download the pattern. They have, however, added a really cool feature to the pattern images of an AI generated video clip of the dress as it is worn on the runway. Amazing!

    AI generated clip of one of the gown designs. SOLD!!!!

    Once a pattern is purchased, they send you the PDF pattern and instructions to download and print at home or a copy shop. They include multiple size files and all of the information needed to construct the garment including a detailed size chart, suggested fabrics types including any interfacing, lining or stabilizing fabric yardage and notions needed, pattern cutting layout, and sewing instructions, and a few photos of a finished garment made from the pattern. The sewing instructions are quite sparse, somewhat confusing, and assume that you have a good amount of prior dressmaking experience and ability to construct a dress. In addition, the sewing terms and language are not always clear, there are no photos or illustrations of the construction process, just the step-by step words themselves, so you are somewhat on your own for figuring out the difficult parts, therefore these patterns are not for the beginner sewist by any means. However if you have any questions or need help with the sewing process, they are readily available to help and respond right away which is great.

    Studio of Art Patterns, found only on Etsy at https://www.etsy.com/shop/StudioOfArtPatterns, is a small, woman-owned company that creates sewing patterns for the experienced sewist. As I’d love to support and promote this small, yet growing, business, and wanted to know more about them, I reached out to the shop owner, Anastasia, for more information about the company and she gladly replied with this to say:

    Studio of Art Patterns – Our Story

    Studio of Art Patterns has been creating and sharing sewing patterns on the Etsy platform since 2021, and our shop is only beginning to gain momentum. In this short time, we have published 281 modern patterns, including 125 wedding dress patterns, each offered in five sizes. Even an experienced professional sewist can appreciate the tremendous amount of work our small team has accomplished in such a limited period.
    Our team is made up of three passionate specialists:
    • Anastasia – graphic designer, assistant, and shop owner
    • Angelika – designer
    • Julia – customer service and marketing specialist
    Every day, we continue improving our products, but our main goal remains the same: to expand our collection with fresh, high-quality sewing patterns that have no analogues online. Our team carefully selects the most elegant and desirable garment designs and transforms them into detailed, professional patterns to help our customers create stylish and beautifully crafted pieces.
    At the moment, our patterns are available exclusively on Etsy. However, we are actively growing and working on launching our own website in the near future.


    Going back to the bridesmaid dresses, we decided on this pattern, mostly for the draped skirt, and I would make the bodice in two different styles to attach to the same skirt for the ladies:

    The dresses turned out satisfactory with the short time frame to complete and the fussy nature if the fabric, so I won’t go into much detail about it, but I wanted to share my moment of discovery of this amazing pattern company that led me here!

    After completing the silk bridesmaid dresses, I went on to purchase and make several more Studio of Art patterns from their Wedding Dress category of designs. I will share the patterns and the creations I made from them, mostly making them just because I wanted to make them and show off the new skills I learned from constructing them:

    Corset Bodice Slim Skirt Gown

    Plunging neckline gown with skirt overlap opening.
    Made in a soft peach satin, I love how this gown turned out! The skirt side opening, the mesh side insets in the bodice, and it has pockets!

    Corset bodice with off shoulder puffy sleeve
    I made my version eliminating the corset and bra cup seams to keep the integrity of the toile print of the fabric. I also eliminated the bottom part of the sleeve and lengthened the skirt.

    Draped halter neck bodice gown with shoulder drape and low draped back
    Made in a stunning green silk satin
    The open back with drape was difficult to do, but turned out really well
    Modeled here by the gorgeous Christine Lewy at my runway show at FashionXT 2025 in Portland, OR

    I added sleeves, lowered the back and added a little lower back bar to support the low back for this black wedding gown for a client.

    I have since went on to purchase several more Studio of Art patterns with the intention of studying the pattern details, mixing and matching the details, and making them up as I get the opportunity. Some I got for a certain detail or technique that I’d like to learn how to do, some I like the entire dress and would make it as is. I have a few already in the works as I get the chance to print out the HUGE pattern pieces and cut them out, purchase the fabrics (each one takes lots of fabric!) and decide on the pattern adjustments I would like to make in order to make them with somewhat of a unique twist, if I can.

    Here is my collection of Studio of Art patterns that I have become obsessed with, but have yet to make:

    These are just a few of the patterns that Studio of Art patterns offer in their gallery of designs. They also offer more casual looks, athletic and kids patterns, so if you are curious or looking for something different to sew, definitely check them out!

    Time to go sew a fabulous Studio of Art pattern and make another dream dress come true!

    Au Revoir!

  • A Crisp White Suit

    A Crisp White Suit

    There is something just so fresh and cool about a white suit. It’s bold, bright and daring, but looks effortless and alluring.

    White Pantsuit wedding guest

    I’ve been excited to add at least one pant suit and/or pant options to my bridal collection. A wedding ceremony is a perfect opportunity to wear such an outfit, whether it’s the bride or a wedding guest wearing this eye-catching combination.

    So with about 5 yards of nice fabric including linen, rayon, tropical weight wool, silk or a blend, as long as it has a nice drape with a firm enough hand to endure the nature of the garments, you’re good to go! Oh, and interfacing, lining, buttons, a zipper, needles, thread, tailors chalk, a sewing machine, iron and all the other million little sewing tools, and about 20 hours of uninterrupted free time, then you’re good to go!

    In 2024, I made this 3 piece white linen suit for my collection and runway show. I did a tailored blazer, wide leg trouser and a corset. It turned out great and looked amazing on anyone who tried it on:

    White suit on Michel
    White suit on Orenda

    The suit looks great on Michel, but it was way too big on her. It fit Orenda really well, so I asked her to wear the suit in my runway show, and now is the proud owner of the suit as she purchased it from me! So cool…

    Orenda looks amazing! in this suit!

    I wanted to try more versions of a white suit, so I made a new one. This time, I used a more fitted jacket pattern with a nipped in waist and strong shoulders.

    I used Vogue Patterns once again, this time Vogue 2016 for the jacket and Vogue 9361 for the pants:

    I love the lines of the blazer pattern with the seams, the pleat in the shoulder, the collar and the welt pockets with flaps. It was a difficult pattern to sew with all of these details, the lining and getting the whole jacket to look crisp, tailored and well made. The pants, although still tailored, were much easier to make in comparison.

    Luckily, making them both straight from the envelope with no alterations, fit my model Tiffany perfectly and looks amazing in the photos we did at the planned photo shoot we had in early April:

    With all this white pantsuit wonderfulness happening, I figured that I needed one for myself! Luckily, I was invited to participate in a fashion showcase at a fancy shmancy club in Portland where I could show come of my collection and have more exposure in my community, and the theme included wearing all white for the participants and the guests of the show. I shopped my fabric and pattern stash and happened to have enough white linen to make another pantsuit. Cool!

    For me, I chose a jacket pattern that has an interesting tie closure for something a bit different from the usual blazer style. I, of course, referred to Pinterest for inspiration on the style and found some great examples:

    I had this pattern from Butterick already on hand, perfect for the outfit:

    Butterick 6820 Pattern

    Perfect! The only thing I don’t like about the pattern is the fact that the jacket does not come with instructions on lining it. If I make it again (which I most likely will), I will draft a lining pattern for it to really elevate the look, have better structure, and be more comfortable.

    Overall, I absolutely LOVE how it turned out!

    The fashion showcase event ended up being cancelled (boo!). Although a major disappointment for myself and all who were participating, it was a great reason to make up this outfit as well as new pieces for the show, so not all was lost.

    I hope to get the chance to create more outfits like these, either for clients, shows or for myself! I love to try new patterns, develop my sewing and tailoring skills, and create beautiful clothes that last and are enjoyable for the wearer. I know that I feel a boost of confidence when I am wearing something that makes me feel and look good and I hope to evoke that feeling for others through the garments that I make or alter. After all, my motto is Dream Garments Come True!

    Love,

    Stephanie

  • Abstract Wearable Art

    Abstract Wearable Art

    My dear friend told me about an event that was going on in Portland that she bought a ticket for and thought I might be interested in joining her. The event was a combination fashion show, art exhibit and promotion of new happenings in the city. It was hosted in a former retail space in Pioneer Place mall , a once booming luxury mall that had been hit hard since the riots of 2020 and was loosing traffic, but is showing a renewed interest with some high end shops and new use of some of the otherwise unoccupied spaces. A new art gallery has opened in one such space in the mall, Gallery Go Go, which features local artists, hosted the event and invited other fashion, makeup and performance artists, and most notably, the amazing botanical artist, Francois Weeks. All of the amazing makeup art was done by a talented team at Event Cosmetics.

    Of course, I was thrilled to hear of such a show and immediately purchased a ticket to join in the fun and also to support some local talent. Plus I got to hang out with a wonderful, fun and beautiful friend who also shared a passion for fashion and culture as I do.

    I began to plan what I wanted to wear to this event as I just LOVE fashion shows and events that involve socializing, seeing amazing artists work, and dressing up!

    Since the event was happening in early March, I thought it would be wise to make a statement coat or jacket of sorts so that I wouldn’t have to worry about what I was going to wear as outerwear over my outfit. I felt it was a great idea to make a unique jacket and embellish it with floral and botanical inspired embroidery, beading and appliqués, and line the asymmetric peplum with a complimentary pop of color. I gathered up my pattern ideas, materials and ordered some lovely appliqués from Etsy and began to work on it.

    Some sketches of my idea
    An appliqué and beads that could work on the jacket
    Or these 3-D rose appliques
    Another gorgeous appliqué I purchased

    If you know me at all, you know that I tend to have TOO many ideas swimming around in my head and only occasionally take the idea to a finished project. Well you guessed it, the idea was a great one, I started on it, but time just began to run out and I knew that I couldn’t finish it in time to wear to the show. Argh!

    So, I tabled plan A and moved on to plan B.

    I have plenty of lovely fabric in my stash, fabrics that are already embellished or printed and only need a blank slate to make them come alive. Enter the idea to make a great jacket using a pattern that I have always wanted to make and some great fabric I’ve been saving for such an occasion!

    I got to work cutting out this McCalls pattern #M7879 that I had in my collection, choosing the view with the interesting leg ‘o mutton sleeve and longer hem so that I could be warm and stylish, but not too hot if it were to be hot at the event:

    McCalls 7879 pattern cover
    The line drawings for the pattern. I made view C

    If you happen to be interested where I got the Leg ‘o Mutton description of that style of puffed sleeve, it is actually a style of sleeve that has been around since the 1800’s and is to resemble the leg of a lamb.

    https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/tag/leg-o-mutton-sleeves/
    https://genealogylady.net/2015/07/12/fashion-moments-leg-o-mutton-sleeves/

    Did you know I also am a huge fashion history nerd? You heard it here, Folks! Love it.

    On to the project!

    I had this interesting floral and abstract printed cotton blend fabric that had a Scotch-guard surface treatment, perfect for a light outerwear piece, or a home decor project. It has some abstract floral print and black zebra-type stripes on a bright white background. I had purchased enough yardage of it with the intent to use to make it into a rain jacket, so it was just right.

    It didn’t take too long to make up the jacket, between other client projects and teaching sewing classes, about two weeks on and off in total. Even though the jacket is fully lined and making the sleeve like that was new to me, I managed to stay up late some nights and power through it.

    I tell you, with having my own sewing business, operated out of my lovely and inspiring home, I have more time, mental space and ability to do special, last minute projects like this and that makes me so, sew happy! I have all my tools, machines, notions, thread, buttons, fabrics, patterns, trims, beads; essentially all of the things I need to make most any garment at my fingertips. No need to even leave the house! Such a dream come true.

    A pop of color using bias piping trim, inserted to the inside of the jacket between the lining and the facing. A little design feature I love to add to jackets and coats whenever I can.
    The jacket lining installed and getting close to being finished. I had this silk/spandex blend fabric in black on hand in my fabric stash. I love using silk to line better garments. It’s so luxe and slippy!

    Alas, I finished the jacket just in time to take a few photos of it, put it on with the rest of my outfit, do my makeup and hair, and head out the door to meet my friend for dinner before the show.

    She’s finished!
    I’m ready to go and excited to wear my new creation!
    I wore my new jacket over a black cashmere turtleneck and faux leather leggings with some Sorel booties. Perfection!
    #sewingismysuperpower

    The show was amazing and so fun to see such wonderful creations by talented artists featured on bodies of beautiful people. The featured artist Francois Weeks created spectacular live botanical displays and wearable works of floral art. Check out some of the photos I took from my seat at the show and afterwards. Click on the photos to see some of the detail work that will blow your mind! Amazing and SO inspirational!

    At the Gallery Go Go pre-show

    I was so mesmerized by the amazing arial artist, I only got this one photo of her, about to approach the arial hoop, at the very beginning of doing her magic during the show:

    The arial artist, a mesmerizing show!

    Even the music from the featured DJ’s was super sweet! We also got a great goodie bag that included some lip balm from Event Cosmetics that I have been loving, an amazing perfume sample, and some other great little treats to enjoy!

    We had an amazing night out, seeing such talent and inspiration to be creative, and just fun to hang out with some cool people of Portland! I was perfectly comfortable and felt great in my jacket and the outfit I put together with it. I got tons of compliments on my jacket, before and after the show, as well as from my social media posts following that night. The icing on the cake happened when McCalls Pattern Company contacted me through my Instagram post, asking if they could feature my jacket on their page. WOW!!!

    My Form of Art: Fashion

  • A Tall Drink of Style

    A Tall Drink of Style

    Suzanne demonstrates her Tall Drink of Style in her new Love, Stephanie coat!

    Suzanne and I go way back, 37 odd years in fact. All the way back to freshman year in high school where we carpooled to school with our moms and a few other students living in Concord and Bedford who also attended our school Lawrence Academy in Groton, Massachusetts. It is a small, private college prep school on a beautiful campus where the classes were small and everybody knew each other.

    Fast forward to modern times where we keep in touch with old friends and family through social media platforms like Facebook and Instagram. That is precisely how I’ve reconnected with Suzanne and many other friends from childhood, high school and college days.

    Ever since I’ve been connected with Suzanne (she used to go by Suzy), she’s been a wonderful fan and always excited to see and comment on what I’m currently sewing. A few times she’s even commented like “I just love what you’re creating!” and “someday I love for you to make something for me!” which is such a wonderful and flattering comment to hear, and more and more, something I’d like to achieve full time. Custom clothes making for clients and even more, a fashion line of my own.

    Well, one garment and one client at a time, I’m starting to see this dream come to life. So far in 2022 alone, I already have 8 clients that i have already, or am currently working on creating custom garments for, plus have several bridal and special occasion alteration projects, a re-fashioning project in the works, other special makes on the list. Unfortunately I have had to turn away several potential clients as I am simply too busy to take on more.

    I’m also am working with an amazing business coach who is helping , me get organized, set goals, focus on my brand and core client profile, continuing education and skill development, plus I’m building a new website and branding refresh. I expect this is going to be a great year for my business and continuing growth on the horizon. So yay!

    Back to her! Suzanne saw the lovely leopard coat I made for myself and that was the one for her! She reached out to me and asked if she could commission me to make one just like it for her. Of course I was delighted that she asked and jumped on the offer.

    I got to work right away to plan out the process and set up a meeting to discuss all of the options and details that go into making a coat for someone other than myself. We started with a zoom meeting to talk and actually speak to each other after all these years. I made a PowerPoint presentation as I like to do for any new client, to help explain her pattern and fabric options, talk and demonstrate more about the details she would like, and my pricing levels that depend on the components, the time, and the level of difficulty. I also include my work process and a timeline with milestones and deadlines.

    A screen shot of some of my PowerPoint slides

    Suzanne loved the presentation and chose the style and fabrics right away, knowing she wanted a coat just like mine with just a few customizations.

    My version of this amazing coat!

    I sent her some fabric swatches in the mail so she could touch and feel the lovely and soft hand of the high quality materials I’d be using to make her coat. The only differences she wanted from my version was black silk lining and a slight different collar shape.

    Butterick 6385 pattern
    The leopard print wool blend coating material

    I also asked her to take body measurements according to a handy chart that I also sent over. We scheduled another Zoom meeting once she had the fabric swatches and measurements ready to confirm everything before I got started making a mock up in muslin for the fit and style review.

    As soon as I was done sewing up the muslin of the coat, I mailed it to her and asked her to contact me as soon as she received it. She sent over some photos of her in the muslin which was great and a perfect prelude to our Zoom meeting which followed shortly after

    So far, so good!
    Even just in muslin it looks great on her!

    With just a few changes to make to the pattern after our Zoom meeting, I immediately got to work cutting out her coat in the fashion fabric. This honestly took the most time and careful organizing with precise cutting, carefully transferring the pattern markings such as the darts, notches and matching points, and also doing the same to the flannel underlining layer (which was going in between the fashion fabric and lining) for warmth and added “body” to the outer material, and also the silk lining. Time consuming to say the least, but this step is a really important part of making a successful garment.

    The coat fabric, laid out right sides together, pattern pieces anchored down on grain and prepped to cut out

    So, I sewed and I sewed (and I sewed some more!), all the while keeping her posted with my progress, trying hard to meet my deadline to get it to her in time to wear it this winter.

    Installing lace hem tape as part of the finishing
    Hand sewing the hem to the flannel underlining
    Of course, my Love, Stephanie label had to be beautiful and stand out!

    After many long sewing hours and late nights hunkered down in front of my sewing machine and pressing table, I was so excited to finally finish the coat, pack it up, and ship ‘er out!

    All packed up and ready to ship across the USA!

    The coat arrived in perfect time for Suzanne to model for her new business launch of a fashion stylist in the Boston area appropriately named A Tall Drink of Style

    Looks soooo good on her!

    Check out her new business endeavor and give her a follow here on Instagram https://instagram.com/atalldrinkofstyle?utm_medium=copy_link and Facebook https://www.facebook.com/atalldrinkofstyle/photos/a.102674092375020/102673925708370/?type=3p

    A Tall Drink of Style logo

    I so happy for Suzanne and her new chapter in life, and I am incredibly flattered that she asked me to represent her style in a custom garment creation for her new business!

    Now, that’s a tall drink of style!

    Stay tuned for more great style and trend ideas from Suzanne, plus in collaboration with me, even more fashion and wardrobe ideas!

    Ciao for now!

  • Luxe Leopard Coat

    I had Dior in mind as I made this coat, with the yummy brushed wool fabric, the sumptuous silk satin lining, and the classic, tailored details, all brought me back to an era of glamor and sophistication of the 1940’s and ‘50’s.

    Leopard print coat

    I initially started making this coat back in October 2020, taking the time to ask my friends on Instagram which lining color they liked with the print. I ultimately chose bright red as I thought it had the best “pop”, but any one of them would have been gorgeous!

    My favorite lining options for my coat, all choices in silk:

    Well, as usual for me, I eagerly started working on sewing up this gorgeous coat using Butterick 6385 pattern buy cutting out the pattern tissue, tissue fitting myself to check fit, cutting out the fashion fabric, the lining and a flannel underlining for warmth. I even made a few of the first seams, including the pockets (which end up being way too small.

    Note to self: next time, make the pockets bigger!

    Butterick 6385 pattern from Lisette

    I chose view C with the stand up collar and the rectangle pocket flap of view A.

    I got to cutting out all the pattern pieces before I realized that there was a good chunk of fabric missing from the upper sleeve that would leave a huge gaping hole if I attempted to ignore it, and I didn’t have enough of the fabric left to cut the piece again. To boot, the fabric store where I got the fabric also didn’t have any of exactly the same fabric left in stock. Grrr!

    So, with the air deflated out of my sewjo, I rolled up what I had done so far, and added the coat components and pattern to my “to be continued” pile and there it sat for a better part of a year. “Le Sigh”

    As part of my new life goals that I have set for myself recently, at least my sewing life goals, I want to tackle my unfinished projects, finish them, and clear the decks (and my mind) to focus on new personal and client projects to work on. So, with autumn in the air and this project staring me in the face and making me feel guilty about wasting time and resources, I figured out how to fill in the missing chunk at the sleeve by using fabric glue (gasp!) and scraps from the cuttings which I always save, and got right back into making this coat

    Sewing the lining, which I serged all of the edges when I originally cut out the pattern. Thank goodness I did because this silk stuff frays like a mofo

    I sewed and sewed with newfound energy for this coat, staying up late and ignoring my hungry husband. He’d survive, but I couldn’t until this darn coat was DONE!

    Here’s a shot of the coat just before installing the lining, showing the interior interfacing and underlining in camel flannel for warmth and extra stability to the fashion fabric

    Flannel underlining and interfacing inside the coat just before adding the lining.

    I skipped the shoulder pads and sleeve heads as I felt I really don’t need them, however that is one step that I probably should have done. Next time…

    Setting in the lining and going the finishing touches on the coat, some by hand, was starting to turn the corner and approach the end. I took a good amount of time pressing and pinning this baby into submission, all which made it easier to sew and have professional looking results:

    Hand sewing some parts always looks better (my sausage fingers would not agree)

    After finally finishing the coat, sewing buttonholes and buttons, I was finally DONE!

    Aren’t those buttons cute? They kind of look like the spots on the leopard print!
    The red silk lining makes my heart happy!

    I knew that I wanted to take some great photos of this creation for sharing on social media, and have many examples and inspiration photos from my Pinterest page such as these images:

    I asked my dear fashionista friend if I could borrow a few of her gorgeous designer handbags for the photos and she was so sweet and generous to lend me some of her favorites for a few days. I narrowed down the options to these three I’m accessorizing with the coat:

    A gorgeous Loewe structured tote in camel
    A classic quilted Yves St Laurent chain handle
    bag in black
    A stunning Sophie Holme red clutch

    I’ll just shut up now and let Her speak for herself…

    Aaaaand, scene….

    Ok, I’m now ready, the decks are clear for takeoff…

  • Flounces in Floral

    Flounces in Floral

    I usually don’t identify myself as being overly girly or feminine, but I’m finding myself drawn to flounces, ruffles, florals and other “girly” details in fashion lately. So, I figured, why not succumb to my femininity and make myself something floral, flouncy and flirty! (Yes, I am a total dork if you were wondering.)

    Last summer, I came across this floral stretch denim fabric at Joann’s and really liked it, so I purchased a couple of yards of it, with the intention of making a little dress out of it:

    Floral Stretch Denim

    We were planning a trip to Las Vegas in August 2017 and I thought this would be a great opportunity to sew a little strappy fitted dress for the trip, but then the trip was cancelled so this particular dress project was also cancelled, at least for the time being.

    Fast forward to early Spring 2018. McCall’s Pattern Company released some really great patterns and for a couple of dollars, I picked up this one, and a few others, during one of Joann Fabrics pattern sales:

    M7730

    I’m not all that crazy about the ginormous sleeves on view B and C on this pattern, but I really like the little jacket shape and flounces of view A:

    M7730viewA

    I thought I could make up a cute little spring jacket like this one I spotted on Pinterest:

    Flounce Sleeve Jacket

    This pattern, although trendy, could easily be made up in solid colors, prints, or with more of a classic look by just leaving off the flounces that are constructed separately and sewn to the outside along a marked stitching line.

    One thing that I thought could improve the quality of the jacket in terms of construction and wear was a facing. Without a facing on the inside of this jacket, the lining would come all the way to the edges of the jacket and possibly show or peek out from the inside of the jacket. Upon doing some research of other sewists that have made this jacket, some of them had added a facing and were much happier with the result. So, I decided to take the time to do the same to mine.

    I pulled up my online Craftsy sewing class Mastering Construction: Linings and Facings with instructor Sara Alm for a refresher on how to make facings and got to work adjusting my pattern.

    Commercial break: I absolutely LOVE Craftsy and have learned so much from these great online classes! The classes offered are an invaluable tools for learning for creative-minded people.

    I traced a 3″ facing from the jacket front and back pattern pieces, then also traced the lining (minus the facing area) from the same pattern pieces to create facings and a new lining pattern (adding seam allowances to each):

     

    I then decided to add a little fun pop of color to this jacket that is ultimately just shades of grey and chalk white. I used packaged piping in bright fuchsia pink to sew between the lining and the facing. I see this type of detail in some ready-to-wear garments and knew it would be a relatively easy detail to add to the interior (I also learned how to do this by watching another one of my favorite Craftsy classes, Sew Like a Designer: Fashion Details):

     

    IMG_8904

    Oh, and I also decided that I would like to have a pocket in this jacket, so I just traced off a rectangle (using a notebook that was handy and my clear grid ruler) and cut out two of these from the lining material, sewed them together leaving an opening to turn, turned it inside out, gave it a good press, then top stitched it to one of the front sides of the lining. I thought of doing a nice welt pocket here, but wasn’t in the mood to take the time to do that. Maybe next time!

    It was exciting to see my jacket was really starting to come together! I love how the entire jacket is lined, including the underside of the sleeve and peplum flounces. Here is one sleeve getting pressed on my handy sleeve board after the flounce was gathered slightly and sewed to the outside of the sleeve:

     

    The final touch of slip stitching by hand the sleeve lining to the sleeve at the hem:

    IMG_8905

    All in all, this jacket was a fairly easy sewing project and only took a few evenings after work and Saturday morning to complete. I am so happy with it and glad that I chose to make this up, especially in a floral print.

    I got a kick out of showing off the lining, piping and little pocket that I added to the construction of this little gem:

    IMG_8910                     IMG_8911

    And, of course, my Love, Stephanie label too:

    Label in Floral Flounce Jacket

    I enjoyed wearing this out to a local fashion event, along with a silk camisole and black wide leg trousers, also items that I have sewn. I even received a couple of compliments on my jacket! Good times!

     

    IMG_8940

     

    IMG_8930

    Happy Spring!

  • Printed Silk Tank Top

    Printed Silk Tank Top

    I felt the itch to sew up something quick and easy to wear, so I made up this little silk top using Simplicity 1253 pattern and some lovely Derek Lam printed silk/lycra fabric:

    Simplicity 1253 top in Derek Lam printed silk
    Simplicity 1253 top in Derek Lam printed silk

    Simplicity 1253 in Derek Lam designer silk
    Simplicity 1253 in Derek Lam designer silk

    This little top pattern took just a couple of days of on and off sewing time and under 2 yards of fabric. It features a pleated front, hi/low hem and a neck band.

    Front neck pleat detail
    Front neck pleat detail

    The neck band took a little time to sew on, as I chose to sew the inside enclosing seam by hand instead of the stitch in the ditch method that the pattern has you do. This method NEVER turns out well for me, so I just take out my needle, thread and thimble and get to work hand sewing:

    Slip stitching the inside of the neck band by hand
    Slip stitching the inside of the neck band by hand

    There is a little keyhole opening in the back with a loop and button closure which is a nice little feature:

    back of top with loop and button closure
    back of top with loop and button closure

    I like to layer these little silk tops under jackets and cardigans or on their own:

    My new top layered under a jacket
    My new top layered under a jacket

    I almost always have inspiration styles after which I try to model my sewing projects:

    Joie "Corette" printed silk tank $158
    Joie “Corette” printed silk tank $158

    Joie printed silk tank top
    Joie printed silk tank top

  • Vogue 8847 Silk Crepe Shirtdress

    Vogue 8847 Silk Crepe Shirtdress

    Vogue 8847 in Silk Crepe de Chine
    Vogue 8847 in Silk Crepe de Chine

    I made up this nice shirt dress in a nice Liberty silk crepe de chine print using Vogue 8847 pattern (now out print unfortunately).

    Vogue 8847 pattern photo
    Vogue 8847 pattern photo

    Vogue 8847 line drawing
    Vogue 8847 line drawing

    It was not too bad of a pattern to sew, it took me a couple of weeks over weekends and evenings after work. The pattern features a stand up collar, open placket, self-lined yoke, long sleeve gathered into a barrel cuff and self belt. I chose to not add the pockets because the fabric I used was pretty light and delicate, and I thought that the pockets would just weigh down the dress, especially if I had my hands in them.

    I made View A essentially for the collar style and the length of the dress, modifying the hem to be just straight across instead of curved at the front, split at the sides and straight at the back as the pattern features.

    I added 2 inches to the front and back pattern pieces of the dress in order to have enough length in the torso and for the dress to “blouse” when I belted it:

    Added 2" in length to the front and back pattern pieces
    Added 2″ in length to the front and back pattern pieces

    I cut out the pattern pieces of the dress as best I could, not really following the pattern cutting layout for view A, which calls for an insane amount of fabric, essentially 6-7 yards of fabric, if using a border print. I just went by view B to estimate the amount of fabric to purchase, more like 3 1/2 yards of 45″ wide material.

    Instead of using sew-in or fusible interfacing, I used silk organza to interface the front facing and the collar. This was a great suggestion from the sales associate at Josephine’s Dry Goods, the wonderful fabric store where I purchased the material.

    used in the front facing and collar pieces
    silk organza used in the front facing and collar pieces as interfacing

    I used hand basting with silk thread to baste the front facing to the front of the dress:

    front facing basting stitches to mark the cutting line
    front facing basting stitches to mark the cutting line

    One part of the instructions were missing, the step between 11 and 12, where you are to sew the yoke back to the yoke front, attaching the front of the dress to the back of the dress, so that is something to take note of.

    It took some time and careful pinning to get the gathers at the yoke just right:

    Using many pins to gather the yoke.

    I love how this dress turned out and am quite happy with the results! It is a lovely, casual yet elegant dress to wear and I just love this Liberty printed silk!

    Back view of Vogue 8847 dress
    Back view of Vogue 8847 dress

    Side view of dress
    Side view of dress

    This dress reminds me of some dress styles that I have been saving in my sewing inspiration files like these:

    Joie "Marlola" silk shirtdress $358
    Joie “Marlola” silk shirtdress $358

    Open placket dress Zulily
    Open placket dress Zulily

    DVF Silk Freya dress $398
    Diane von Furstenberg Silk Freya dress $398

    Printed shirt dress
    Piperline Collection printed silk gathered shirtdress with pockets

    I am sure I will get a lot of wear out of this dress, and would be more than willing to make it again:

    V8847 side front
    V8847 side front

    IMAG3373
    This photo really makes the fabric look blue!

    Wearing my new silk dress!
    Wearing my new silk dress!

    Me enjoying my new fabulous silk dress!
    Me enjoying my new fabulous silk dress!