I first discovered Studio of Art Patterns in early 2024 when I was asked to create 2 bridesmaids dresses with a quick turnaround through a referral from a wedding planner. I was delighted to have the gig and got started right away finding a pattern to create the 2 special occasion dresses having the same skirt style with different bodices using a lovely sage green silk charmeuse as the client requested.
I love to spend time looking at all kinds of sewing patterns, especially patterns that have the potential to turn out a beautiful result that looks like it came from a fancy boutique or bespoke design house. I like to collect these type of patterns, even if I won’t use them right away, or ever, just so that I can learn about how to construct and sew the details that make them unique or create those hidden details of a garment that are not immediately apparent.
After searching through my own pattern collection of formal dresses, as well as through the usual avenues of obtaining commercial patterns, searching on Etsy I came across this new-to-me pattern company, Studio of Art Patterns. They had a very good selection of formal dress designs to choose from with details and features not found in other commercial patterns for sale. The patterns didn’t have much detail to the Etsy description or the other pertinent information readily available, such as fabric yardage needed to create the design, unless, as I discovered, you purchase and download the pattern. They have, however, added a really cool feature to the pattern images of an AI generated video clip of the dress as it is worn on the runway. Amazing!
AI generated clip of one of the gown designs. SOLD!!!!
Once a pattern is purchased, they send you the PDF pattern and instructions to download and print at home or a copy shop. They include multiple size files and all of the information needed to construct the garment including a detailed size chart, suggested fabrics types including any interfacing, lining or stabilizing fabric yardage and notions needed, pattern cutting layout, and sewing instructions, and a few photos of a finished garment made from the pattern. The sewing instructions are quite sparse, somewhat confusing, and assume that you have a good amount of prior dressmaking experience and ability to construct a dress. In addition, the sewing terms and language are not always clear, there are no photos or illustrations of the construction process, just the step-by step words themselves, so you are somewhat on your own for figuring out the difficult parts, therefore these patterns are not for the beginner sewist by any means. However if you have any questions or need help with the sewing process, they are readily available to help and respond right away which is great.
Studio of Art Patterns, found only on Etsy at https://www.etsy.com/shop/StudioOfArtPatterns, is a small, woman-owned company that creates sewing patterns for the experienced sewist. As I’d love to support and promote this small, yet growing, business, and wanted to know more about them, I reached out to the shop owner, Anastasia, for more information about the company and she gladly replied with this to say:
Studio of Art Patterns – Our Story
Studio of Art Patterns has been creating and sharing sewing patterns on the Etsy platform since 2021, and our shop is only beginning to gain momentum. In this short time, we have published 281 modern patterns, including 125 wedding dress patterns, each offered in five sizes. Even an experienced professional sewist can appreciate the tremendous amount of work our small team has accomplished in such a limited period. Our team is made up of three passionate specialists: • Anastasia – graphic designer, assistant, and shop owner • Angelika – designer • Julia – customer service and marketing specialist Every day, we continue improving our products, but our main goal remains the same: to expand our collection with fresh, high-quality sewing patterns that have no analogues online. Our team carefully selects the most elegant and desirable garment designs and transforms them into detailed, professional patterns to help our customers create stylish and beautifully crafted pieces. At the moment, our patterns are available exclusively on Etsy. However, we are actively growing and working on launching our own website in the near future.
Going back to the bridesmaid dresses, we decided on this pattern, mostly for the draped skirt, and I would make the bodice in two different styles to attach to the same skirt for the ladies:
The dresses turned out satisfactory with the short time frame to complete and the fussy nature if the fabric, so I won’t go into much detail about it, but I wanted to share my moment of discovery of this amazing pattern company that led me here!
After completing the silk bridesmaid dresses, I went on to purchase and make several more Studio of Art patterns from their Wedding Dress category of designs. I will share the patterns and the creations I made from them, mostly making them just because I wanted to make them and show off the new skills I learned from constructing them:
Corset Bodice Slim Skirt Gown Made in ivory satin. Boned bodice with spaghetti straps and slim skirtI added a lace-up corset back to this dress patternI added a trumpet to the bottom of this skirt to this pattern to make a new design out of a sleek black leather-like satinThe lace up corset back allows for an easier fitPlunging neckline gown with skirt overlap opening.Made in a soft peach satin, I love how this gown turned out! The skirt side opening, the mesh side insets in the bodice, and it has pockets!74 self-fabric covered buttons adorn the center back seam into the trainCorset bodice with off shoulder puffy sleeve I made my version eliminating the corset and bra cup seams to keep the integrity of the toile print of the fabric. I also eliminated the bottom part of the sleeve and lengthened the skirt.Draped halter neck bodice gown with shoulder drape and low draped backMade in a stunning green silk satinThe open back with drape was difficult to do, but turned out really wellModeled here by the gorgeous Christine Lewy at my runway show at FashionXT 2025 in Portland, ORI added sleeves, lowered the back and added a little lower back bar to support the low back for this black wedding gown for a client.
I have since went on to purchase several more Studio of Art patterns with the intention of studying the pattern details, mixing and matching the details, and making them up as I get the opportunity. Some I got for a certain detail or technique that I’d like to learn how to do, some I like the entire dress and would make it as is. I have a few already in the works as I get the chance to print out the HUGE pattern pieces and cut them out, purchase the fabrics (each one takes lots of fabric!) and decide on the pattern adjustments I would like to make in order to make them with somewhat of a unique twist, if I can.
Here is my collection of Studio of Art patterns that I have become obsessed with, but have yet to make:
Basque waist ballgown with off shoulder lace sleevesDraped evening gownCorset bodice gown with flouncesOne shoulder gown with draped bowGown with overskirtlace overlay gownCape dressStructured draped gown with trainSeamed corset bodice gown with split skirtScarf and rosette collar gownV-neck gown with trainEvening gown with embroidery detailStrapless bodysuit and ruffled sheer overskirtMermaid strapless gown and ruffled sheer overskirtWrap dress with long bell sleeves
These are just a few of the patterns that Studio of Art patterns offer in their gallery of designs. They also offer more casual looks, athletic and kids patterns, so if you are curious or looking for something different to sew, definitely check them out!
Time to go sew a fabulous Studio of Art pattern and make another dream dress come true!
There is something just so fresh and cool about a white suit. It’s bold, bright and daring, but looks effortless and alluring.
I’ve been excited to add at least one pant suit and/or pant options to my bridal collection. A wedding ceremony is a perfect opportunity to wear such an outfit, whether it’s the bride or a wedding guest wearing this eye-catching combination.
So with about 5 yards of nice fabric including linen, rayon, tropical weight wool, silk or a blend, as long as it has a nice drape with a firm enough hand to endure the nature of the garments, you’re good to go! Oh, and interfacing, lining, buttons, a zipper, needles, thread, tailors chalk, a sewing machine, iron and all the other million little sewing tools, and about 20 hours of uninterrupted free time, then you’re good to go!
In 2024, I made this 3 piece white linen suit for my collection and runway show. I did a tailored blazer, wide leg trouser and a corset. It turned out great and looked amazing on anyone who tried it on:
White suit on MichelWhite suit on Orenda
The suit looks great on Michel, but it was way too big on her. It fit Orenda really well, so I asked her to wear the suit in my runway show, and now is the proud owner of the suit as she purchased it from me! So cool…
Orenda looks amazing! in this suit!
I wanted to try more versions of a white suit, so I made a new one. This time, I used a more fitted jacket pattern with a nipped in waist and strong shoulders.
I used Vogue Patterns once again, this time Vogue 2016 for the jacket and Vogue 9361 for the pants:
I love the lines of the blazer pattern with the seams, the pleat in the shoulder, the collar and the welt pockets with flaps. It was a difficult pattern to sew with all of these details, the lining and getting the whole jacket to look crisp, tailored and well made. The pants, although still tailored, were much easier to make in comparison.
Luckily, making them both straight from the envelope with no alterations, fit my model Tiffany perfectly and looks amazing in the photos we did at the planned photo shoot we had in early April:
With all this white pantsuit wonderfulness happening, I figured that I needed one for myself! Luckily, I was invited to participate in a fashion showcase at a fancy shmancy club in Portland where I could show come of my collection and have more exposure in my community, and the theme included wearing all white for the participants and the guests of the show. I shopped my fabric and pattern stash and happened to have enough white linen to make another pantsuit. Cool!
For me, I chose a jacket pattern that has an interesting tie closure for something a bit different from the usual blazer style. I, of course, referred to Pinterest for inspiration on the style and found some great examples:
TailoredDressyColors
I had this pattern from Butterick already on hand, perfect for the outfit:
Butterick 6820 Pattern
Perfect! The only thing I don’t like about the pattern is the fact that the jacket does not come with instructions on lining it. If I make it again (which I most likely will), I will draft a lining pattern for it to really elevate the look, have better structure, and be more comfortable.
Overall, I absolutely LOVE how it turned out!
The fashion showcase event ended up being cancelled (boo!). Although a major disappointment for myself and all who were participating, it was a great reason to make up this outfit as well as new pieces for the show, so not all was lost.
I hope to get the chance to create more outfits like these, either for clients, shows or for myself! I love to try new patterns, develop my sewing and tailoring skills, and create beautiful clothes that last and are enjoyable for the wearer. I know that I feel a boost of confidence when I am wearing something that makes me feel and look good and I hope to evoke that feeling for others through the garments that I make or alter. After all, my motto is Dream Garments Come True!
My birthday falls on December 28th, three days after Christmas and three days before New Years. Every year since I can remember, my birthday has either been extra fun and special or exceedingly forgettable and uneventful. I have learned to accept combination Christmas/Birthday/New Years gifts and wishes, wrapped in cheerful paper, re-gifted items unwanted from Christmas, a marked-down deal, or nothing at all. Time and maturity has made me accept this and embrace the holiday season with gratitude and grace.
I have sewed a record number of garments and other items in 2024, something in the ballpark of 40-50 things (some started and unfinished), not to mention alterations and repairs, plus sewing samples and mock-ups for clients, teaching sewing students, and sewing samples towards earning a professional certificate. That’s a whole lot of sewing projects! Most were successful, some were dismal, all I can chalk up to experience and development.
This year, I decided to make something special for myself for my birthday, using fabrics that I had been saving in my stash for just that, a special occasion. I wanted something that I would wear often and not just for one occasion, something practical yet fashionable, wearable yet unique, versatile yet not for everyday. So, I pulled out the 3 1/2 yards of a wonderful wool houndstooth I purchased several years back when I had a “real” job and disposable income, and dug up a fabulous red silk blend fabric I also had been stashing away for just the right project.
I got to work doing my research (aka Pinterest) on what type of garment I wanted to make. I had earmarked the houndstooth wool for a coat, and have many coat sewing patterns also in my collection, so a lovely warm and stylish coat was the main focus. I then was watching a sewing-related YouTube video (as I do daily as I am sewing) that was all about sewing the trends. The YouTube channel, Crumpets, Tea & Sewing hosted by Tea Ray-Grover, has many wonderful tips, suggestions and reviews about sewing, patterns, fabrics and ideas for the home sewist, and was also hosting a sewing challenge collaboration over on Instagram with other YouTubers aptly tagged #sewthetrends, so I figured why not challenge myself to sew up a current trend and enter it into the challenge, just for extra funsies!
I settled on this sewing pattern, Simplicity 9854. Its a relaxed fit, fully lined coat with a notched lapel collar and patch pockets with a flap:
This coat is not for everyone as it is oversized and boxy, and could overwhelm a petite figure or add bulk to a larger frame. I am pretty tall at 5’9″, so I feel I can pull off such a look, so I just went for it and cut out the pattern. Life is short, so why not!
Now, making a coat is not for the faint of heart, for any skill level of sewist. It is not all that difficult to construct (for those with a sewing experience) as most of the pattern pieces are large, however the precision of certain parts are where the sewing can get you. On top of all the bulk and weight of the pattern pieces and keeping track of what side of the fabric is which, as well as those other fiddly details, is what makes it a challenging undertaking. I feel those fiddly bits are what making a coat that much more rewarding when it is done.
So with about a week to make my coat before my birthday celebration of dinner out with close friends and family, I got to cutting out and making it.
One of the first steps to constructing the coat is making the pockets and applying them to the front panels of the coat. This pattern features patch pockets with a flap for the top opening of the pocket. I decided to go the extra step and line the pockets as the pattern did not include this. I feel that the pockets would be more comfortable and less scratchy when using them and also have a bit more stability with wear and tear on the loosely-woven fabric if they had a lining. So, I cut out matching pattern to the pocket in a light-weight satin, pressed in the edges, and hand sewed the lining in the wrong side of the pockets.
The pockets with the lining hand sewn to the wrong side, ready to be sewn to the outside of the front panel of the coat
After the pockets are made, the next step in the pattern instructions have you machine sew the pocket to the outside of the front of the coat using an edge stitch. I, however, decided to hand sew this part as well for best results. I know my machine, and with the thickness and bulk of this wool material, I knew machine stitching probably would come out really wonky, so the precision of hand sewing was the best option.
Hand sewing sometimes is the best bet for precision and invisible stitchesThe pattern matched perfectly!
It was then time to attach attach the lining to the facing of the coat. I chose this beautiful, bold red silk blend satin fabric for the lining which I think is my favorite part!
Love it! The lining is one of my favorite parts of making custom clothing. Coat in progress, hanging out in my studio with some of my dress collection…
So, after the under collar is attached to the main body of the coat, the sleeves are sewn together and then sewn to the armholes of the coat, then the upper collar is attached to the facing and the coat is sewn together at the outer edges of the coat. This step takes a while merely due to all the weight and bulk of the two layers of the coat going through the sewing machine and stitching should be slow and careful, not rushed. Inner seams of the coat need to still be accessed in order to anchor the two layers together at key points from the inside, as well as finish the hems of the sleeves and bottom of the coat with a neat finish. Ugh, a process, but we are SO close!
So once the coat is fully sewn together, turned right side out, under stitched where possible, and given a really good press, you are ready to do the finishing touches.
I happened to come across these cool square shaped buttons I had in my stash from Mood Fabrics (when I actually bought them is a mystery, but it must have been one of my trips either in Los Angeles or New York). Anyway, they were the perfect size and shape for the front of the coat.
Settling in to hand sew on buttons
And with that, my new coat was complete! Easy Peasy! I love it, it is warm, stylish and fits in so well with my mostly black wardrobe.
I’ll start with some inspiration photos of an oversized hounds tooth coat outfits I pinned on Pinterest:
It looks great with a black top and skinny “leather” pantsAnother outfit idea from PinterestThe pop of color inside makes me happy!
Sorry about the terrible background in these photos. We are constantly in “renovation” mode and have a ways to go, so hopefully you can “unsee” those ugly parts and look at my pretty new Birthday coat!
Making a fashion collection has always been a dream of mine. I did a small collection while in a fashion design program at Portland Fashion Institute (then called Portland Sewing) back in 2015, which was a great experience and a lot of work, however it was not even close to this amount of work, time and organization than this most recent undertaking. Also, when I look at other big designers collections and the unbelievable amount of time, money and effort it must take to do such a show, mine pales in comparison.
None the less, this was one of my biggest undertakings to date. I began by entering as a designer and signing the contract for FashionXT back in March for the show happening in October. Once I signed the contract and paid my submission fee, there was no going back.
Then the real work began! I asked a few friends if they would be willing to be my little support team, there to bounce ideas off of, help me make decisions, keep on track, and stay motivated. Early on, I held a meeting with them and shared my ideas and concepts for what I was going to make for the collection. I had some wonderful fabrics already, enough yardage of each fabric to make a big dress or a suit, and some style ideas already swimming in my head that I was dying to make up. I came up with a little line plan with simple sketches and brought my fabrics to show & tell over a brunch meeting, no husbands invited!
Giant Post-It Notes come in very handy for conceptualizing!
I sat down with my calendar and made a plan. I figured I had to make about a dress a week in order to meet the deadline of the show, then broke the days of the week into more goals and tasks, all because I know how much of a procrastinator I am, and always underestimate the time needed to make something.
Flash forward to show time, I nailed it in terms of timing! I was done with everything a couple of days before the show, and had the time to do any final sewing tasks, carefully steam out and pack up each dress and the accessories, and have them ready to transport to the show venue. I could relax, enjoy the night before the show, drink some wine, get a good night’s sleep, and really focus on my successes and on the Big Day the next day.
Flash Forward: The gowns are all packed and ready to go!
Back to the time being…then began the actual work of editing down to what makes sense, what flows together in a collection, and sticking to a theme. I began to conceptualize the collection with the one fabric that really spoke to me, a floral printed mikado (a type of satin) that I had purchased from Mood Designer Fabrics a few years ago. I just loved the colors and the “growing” effect of the print. I thought it would be a wonderful, big ball gown with a big skirt to show off the fabric. Hence, the Floral Garden Bridal Collection was born!
The floral mikado ballgown! Shown here completed, as well as a strapless top made in the same fabric and a wide leg pant.My fashion sketch for this gown
I made the gown with a strapless bodice, doing a folded side pleat instead of a dart or princess seams to ensure I didn’t have to cut into the fabric and break up the print. I used boning and interfacing inside as a layer to act as support, and also lined in a lovely ivory satin. The skirt was made by draping it on a dress form, creating large pleats and adding a triangular-shaped godet to the back of the skirt so that it formed a wider circle at the hem. I added side seam pockets as well, just for fun and convenience for the wearer. Also, I added a waist stay inside the gown, a belt-like support made using a sturdy piece of ribbon, sewn to the inside of the dress, worn snugly around the wearer’s waist and fastens with a hook & eye. This helps to support the weight of the skirt and helps to keep a strapless dress from falling down. I used a store-bought petticoat under the gown to support the bell shape.
The rest of the collection was all meant to circle back to this ballgown by use of a color pulled out from the print, or a shape from a flower. I made edits to my original line up, taking away a few ideas that didn’t really “go”, and adding a few that made sense to fill in the gaps.
One outfit that didn’t truly tie back to the dress was the white linen pantsuit and corset that I made. I made this outfit as I wanted to create alternatives for the modern bride to choose from, and figured a bride might not want a dress, or the ceremony is happening at the courthouse or she might want it for an event before or after the wedding yet still want to feel special and stand out.
For this outfit, I purchased an entire bolt of white linen from Joann Fabrics and chose to use a few commercial patterns that I have been wanting to make, the kind of patterns that are advanced level of sewing and take quite a lot of tailoring and couture sewing techniques to be successful.
The first pattern I tackled was the blazer jacket using Vogue 1870 view A:
Vogue 1870 Pattern View A
This pattern was a beast to make, but it turned out so sharp and really great looking! It’s fully lined with welt pockets and 2-piece sleeves. I’m pretty sure it is most likely a designer knock-off such as Gucci but I can’t be certain. Either way, I absolutely love it!
Once the jacket was complete, I went on to make the wide leg trousers. I used New Look 6769 pattern for the pants. Nothing crazy. I was going for simple, tailored and elegant with the wide leg and pockets, plus this pattern was super easy to sew. A nice refresher between to tough ones:
Then came the hard part: the corset. A zillion pattern pieces to keep track and labeled; the linen outer layer, the lining and the interfacing. Plus making the underwire and boning channels, and the bias strip that encased the upper and lower edges of the corset, and adding the front busk. Then there came the rivets! Ugh, lots of rivets. There are many, many corset sewing patterns out there to choose from, however I tortured myself by using an an advanced pattern, again by Vogue.
Vogue 1876 corset line drawingsThe Linen Pantsuit in ProgressThe Linen Corset in ProgressThe lovely interior of the corsetcovered buttons made for the jacketMy sketch for the outfit on the right, minus the blazer.
Next in line was the lace mermaid gown! I wanted to make a fitted, sexy dress, all in lace for the collection. I had many yards of this relatively inexpensive stretch lace in my fabric stash that would be perfect for this style. It’s not the highest quality lace, but I had already purchased it and it would do for the collection. It’s 100% polyester, so I decided to throw it in the laundry (gentle cycle) and see what happened. Well, it turned out just fine and softened up the fabric a bit, plus got rid of the slightly “plastic” smell.
I used this pattern from McCalls 7569 as a base and made many modifications, mostly to the interior construction of the dress and not as much as the style:
McCalls 7569 line drawingsCutting out the bodice frontTwo of the skirt panels and underliningCutting out part the bottom skirt flounce
I won’t bore you with ALL of the sewing jargon, details and construction modifications I did to make the dress from this pattern, but I will say that I made it MUCH better than the pattern instructed the sewist to do, and it turned out far better than I expected it to!
I called her Lacey
OK, for all you fellow sewing geeks out there, maybe just a quick list of how I made the dress differently from the original pattern:
I added a center back seam so I could put in a zipper
Fully lined and underlined the gown
Raised the center front keyhole neckline 4″ (too much boobage rarely looks good to me)
Added a dart to the back pattern pieces
Raised the skirt higher onto the bodice at the waistline
Added built-in bra cups
The following photos are from the dress nearly complete, yet I later made more changes to the fit once I had the model fitting (stay tuned for part 2 of this post).
Next up, as I did my best to make these garments and complete them as much as possible before moving on to the next one, is the Flutter gown.
A sketch of my Flutter gown
I wanted to create a gown with movement and romance, one that would appear to float on the bride. I had this lovely 3-dimentional mesh lace with sequins and little chiffon petals that looked like butterflies. I bought this fabric on clearance at Joann Fabrics over a year ago and knew I how I wanted to use it.
In order to make the color and shading of the fabric that I had better coordinate with the colors of the collection, essentially going back to the colors of the floral printed mikado, I decided to use a peach toned organza as a backing to the lace, creating a softer tone under the bright white of the lace. You can somewhat see what I am talking about in this photo where I layered the fabrics and draped them on my dressform:
the layer of peach organza fabric creates a softer hue under the white lace
I got to cutting out the 4 layers of this gown: the lace, the peach organza underlining, and 2 layers of a soft chiffon-like poly to be lining. That was a LOT of cutting, especially difficult were the large pattern pieces of the skirt and back of the skirt with a slight train. Keeping track of the pieces was important as they looked alike, especially the skirt front and side front pieces. I used a Burda sewing pattern to begin with, but made so many changes to it that I can’t really call it that pattern anymore.
Underlining each pattern piece with the peach organza was time consuming, but oh so pretty!
I wanted to use the same pattern again for another dress in the collection. I did this for two reasons: one was to create cohesion in the lineup, and the other, to save time. The cohesion helps the eye to recognize the similarity amongst the garments. I made essentially the same dress again, using a completely different fabric and lining. Most people probably would not recognize that the dresses come from the same pattern, but they may notice a familiarity.
3-D Lace Flutter GownVelvet Forest Bride Gown
For the Flutter gown, I ended up adding sleeves, so it looks oven more similar to the Forest Bride gown, but the two fabrics really make them unique.
Flutter 3-D GownForest Bride Velvet Gown
These two gowns were some of my favorites from the collection! I just love how the dress hugs the torso and waist, then gently flows over the rest of the body. The long slit in the skirt allows her to walk easily and exposes the beautiful lining. The sleeves are romantic bell shape (Forest also has a cuff at the end of the sleeve), and protects her from a chilly evening in the garden. I made a point to make these gowns with really nice details including lovely linings, luxurious materials, and matching hair accessories.
Speaking of the amazing headpieces made by my amazing intern Robbyn, there is so much to say, I have to save it for it’s own section. So, stay tuned for more on the wonderful handmade hair accessories and hats later!
The beautiful Stella came next!
Stella the Slip Dress (please excuse the naked mannequin in the back!)
I wanted a sexy slip dress style for the collection, and thought I already have plenty of white dresses, why not have some pink for a pop of color. I brought a large swatch of my floral printed ball gown fabric to the fabric store, pulled out one of the colors from the print, and purchased 6 yards of material plus 5 yards of rhinestone trim for the straps.
picking out fabric for Stella at the fabric store
Pink looks really good on most skin tones, and this fabric is a super soft sand washed rayon that mimics silk in the best way, perfect for a slip dress! I actually would have loved to have a few bridal nightwear lounge slip and robe sets to show, but not enough time for that! Next time!
I made this dress using another commercial pattern, this time a Simplicity pattern from the late ’90’s or early 2000’s, which I’ve had in my pattern collection for years (decades perhaps?):
Simplicity 3735
I love the design details of this dress pattern, especially the back with the low cut of it and the beautiful strappy details. So to bring this lovely gown up to what I was looking for to add to the collection I made a few adjustments to the pattern.
I skimmed out the sides of the skirt part of the dress to make it more body hugging (figure flattering) and not the A-line shape that hangs from the waist as the photo suggests.
I lengthened the hemline and added more of a slight train to the back of the dress (who doesn’t like a little train drama, right?).
I fully lined the dress instead of making a facing around the neckline. I hate facings and would rather make it fully lined (fellow dressmakers catch my drift).
The rhinestones! The gorgeous, beautiful rhinestone trim was a pain in the butt to sew on to each strap, but it looks SO pretty! Totally worth the extra 4 hours to hand sew…
The back of this gown is so lovely!
The low back and strappy rhinestone straps of this gown are “mwah!” chef’s kiss!
I wanted to include some accessories with the collection, giving the potential wearer options. I opted to make a little faux fur shrug (a cape-like little jacket type of garment) to cover her shoulders in case of a little chill in the air (personally, I hate being cold and always have a jacket or cardigan on hand just in case…):
Once Stella and her shrug were complete, it was time to move on to the next look in the lineup and keep up with the pace of my timeline.
I wanted to have options for a bride, and find that dressy jumpsuits are appealing to many. I wanted to create something romantic and flowy in a lovely swishy fabric.
This illustration is one of many that I did with the vision of a bridal, or dressy, jumpsuit as an option. I love a simple bodice, defined waist, and a wide leg pant. I added a big side sash detail for drama and to act as sort of a train.
When choosing a pattern for this, I went for one I had in my collection, McCall’s 8313, to create the look:
The pattern envelope really isn’t exciting or inspirational…
The line drawings are also not the greatest, however view D would work for me
Of course, I made changes to the pattern including cutting the front bodice out on the fold instead of having a center front seam. Also I fully lined the entire jumpsuit to avoid seeing through the garment and to give it a more “luxe” feel. I made a matching sash and slapped on some of my embellished tulle to act as a detachable train.
The jumpsuit conceptualizing process…Kayla rocks it at the model fitting!
As much as I wanted this jumpsuit to be really amazing and create a “wow!” moment, it turned out to be my least favorite in the collection if I’m honest. It just didn’t turn out as well as I wanted it to. Sure, it was fine and worked out for a look, it just wasn’t as refined and elegant as I hoped it would be, but I didn’t have time to start all over with it and make a different one, so it would just have to do. Meh…
The next dress I totally procrastinated on cutting out and making, however was one of my favorite concepts and really lovely fabric choice. I named it Laticia as I felt the fabric reminded me of a lattice feature that you would see as part of the décor in a beautiful garden:
I wanted to have one option in my collection with an overskirt as I love the idea of a transformation in the bridal outfit. She could wear the overskirt for walking down the isle, then remove the overskirt and reveal a lovely sheath dress underneath for the reception. Genius!
Part of the reason for the procrastination on this dress is I had to take extra care to cut out the fabric, perfectly aligning the motif design of the gorgeous sequin embellished delicate lace mesh:
Cutting out the pattern carefully on the lace
I hade to also add extra panels of the material in order to have the motif go all the way to the bottom of the dress which I sewed on by hand. Then, I made an under dress and lining in a flesh tone that was strapless, so boning and hidden structure were key to keeping it looking refined. The zipper was last and the most annoying part of this dress. It all turned out super pretty, but ugh, a LOT of work! Again, could have been a LOT better in my opinion, but I got it done and managed to squeeze it on to the model Grace at the fitting:
Grace looks FAB in Laticia! She loved it! I just had to make a few adjustments and finish the hem.
I couldn’t have a bridal collection without the big finale look, so I added a dress to my line up with another ballgown in a very pale peach toned satin. I used a wonderful pattern from Studio of Art Patterns which I found on Etsy. It featured a mesh insert bodice, wide waistband, a gorgeous open slit in the skirt, pockets and a train. I also opted to add little covered buttons, 72 of them to be exact (thank you Robbyn for making all of those little suckers!), all the way down the center back of the gown.
One of many lovely sewing patterns from Studio of Art Patterns on Etsy
This pattern, although gorgeous, was a bear to sew. It’s one for advanced sewists who are experienced with dressmaking and can figure out construction steps without a lot of guidance or direction. The instructions were minimal and the pattern pieces are enormous, so just handling it and keeping the pieces marked and in order are of utmost importance and added to the pain in the assery of it.
Sewing on 72 tiny covered buttons by hand down the center back of the gown, perfectly spaced 1″ apart, took hours…not to mention also sewing on the lace appliques to the waistband, that took days…It has pockets!
As much of a major pain in the ass this gown was to sew, I did really enjoy the process, I learned a few new things, and she turned out quite beautifully. She really is so elegant and dreamy! She reminded my intern Robbyn of delicious wedding cake frosting which I can totally relate to (yumm, cake!)
I named her Sophia! So pretty!
OK, well that wraps up the 9 looks I had walk the runway for my Floral Garden Bride collection! I wanted to share and document my thought process for each look, so this was a long post. It took me a while to collect my thoughts, organize the photos and write this all down, therefore more than a month after the show has passed and I am still not finished!
In Part 2 of this post, I’ll share more about the finishing touches and the day of the runway, so look out for that coming in the near future.
I gasped out loud when I was contacted through my Yelp profile: a mother of a bride was asking if I could create a kimono-style, robe like top for her daughter who was getting married. She sent over some inspiration photos and asked how much I would charge to make a similar garment:
This made my heart skip a beat!I also love this gown!
Wow, I thought, I love that idea of a fancy kimono style top to wear for the wedding! I love kimonos and robes and have made many of them over the years, but never a bridal one such as this.
The client bride Brittney already had purchased the fabric she wanted the robe made out of: a mesh tulle type of fabric with mushrooms of various sizes embroidered to the fabric and embellished with little sparkly sequins. So pretty!
The fabric!
She also wanted fringe trim added all around the edges of the kimono for more drama and movement:
I ordered 8 yards of this trim, first getting a swatch to check the color
Brittney is quite the creative type of lady as you might have already guessed, and was doing as much DIY for her wedding as possible. She made the invitations, the designed the floral arrangements and dyed the table cloths. She also wanted to use the fringe yardage she bought and try to dye it to match the fabric of the kimono. Meanwhile I ordered some swatches of fringe trim from Etsy and found this perfect match, which we ending up going for.
I had a pattern in mind for the kimono, Simplicity 1108, one that I had made before and could change up a bit to suit her needs:
Using view C of the pattern, I cut it a little shorter and made the sleeve more of a triangular shape instead of a rectangle. I didn’t even bother making a mockup of it as it was so loose fitting and easy to change up a bit to fit as needed.
She and her mom came over several times for planning and fittings which was really fun! We had a great time playing with the ideas for the look, and talking about the wedding plans.
At a fitting with the original fringe. Brittney deciding how long she’d like the sleeve to be, before the fringe was added.
She had a little slip dress to wear under the kimono that she got for a very good price, and decided to purchase another dress to use for additional fabric to make a matching sash to cinch in the waist. So, I made her two belts, one skinny and one wide, so she could choose what felt better for the look.
The kimono was coming along so well and we all were excited for the end result! I loosely sewed (basting stitch) the fringe trim by hand to the outside edges of the kimono. That took forever! Once the length and shape of the edges of the top were confirmed by Brittney, then I cut away the excess fabric and more permanently sewed the fringe on my sewing machine. That also took forever to do as I had to sew very carefully the trim to the edge so as to catch the slippery top edge of the fringe to the narrow hem opening of the sheer mesh kimono fabric, all without catching any fringe edge in the stitches or get caught in my sewing machine. Tedious work to say the least!
The fringe all sewed on to the edges of the front and sleeve of the kimono.
Brittney was getting really excited about wearing it for her wedding! I really loved how it was coming along as well, and decided that I wanted to make another version of the same concept for my own collection. I purchased enough yardage of the mushroom fabric and fringe trim, as well as fabric to make the under dress, to later make a version of the outfit for my upcoming fashion show and to display as an example of my work.
Looking so good!
Come the big day, Brittney was simply radiant in her bridal ensemble! It was perfect for her style, and a unique garment that could be worn again and again for other occasions. I am so happy they came to me for her special custom look for her wedding! It really brings me joy to make someone’s special occasion all that more beautiful!
Mom helping Bride to get ready. How fabulous does she look!What a cool couple!Love!
Another happy day and successful creation! I love my job….
I am no business expert, but I have learned a thing or two about running a small business since I went full time as a entrepreneur nearly two years ago. I have learned that it takes long hours, major sacrifices, dedication, hard work and finding ways to get things done faster, better and more efficiently all while trying to spend less money and earn more.
That’s me: Boss Babe Stephanie showing off some of my work!
I am very proud of my business and what I do. I am a designer seamstress and dressmaker, creating custom garments for ladies focused on special occasion, bridal and tailored apparel and offer bridal alterations. I have managed to grow a client base, hone in on couture and quality sewing techniques, get the word out on what I do, decline work that doesn’t fall into my specialties or timeline (or that I simply don’t want to do), open a little boutique space outside of my home, price my products and services accordingly, earn more money year over year, and become better and more experienced with each job that I take in.
I have paid off all of my debt, paid off my car in full, and have a little chunk of savings in the bank that I would like to invest back into in my business.
I need a plan!
It’s now up to me to work on my business plan and focus in on how to grow my custom sewing & dressmaking business. I need to sit down and figure out the smartest means where I should invest my money, and that starts with a plan. I have read several books and articles on running and growing a small business, now I need to take what I have learned and apply it to my situation.
A quick shot of me and a couple of dresses I made back in 2012
Although I can’t do all of my ideas with the budget that I have, here are some of the specific ones that I have thought about that I can invest in to make my business run smoother, more efficiently, and make a profit:
*new sewing equipment, namely an industrial sewing machine
*take on an intern or part-time contract employee
*hire a professional accountant to handle business finances
*physically (and mentally) declutter & organize
*automate scheduling
*improve website
*invest in and create sellable inventory-manufacture a small collection
*invest in marketing and advertising
*hire a professional photographer
*market and target customer research
*research and development
*foster newness and excitement
*continued education
*travel
*learn from those who are more skilled and experienced than I am
*hold events to attract new clients, thank existing and previous clients
*network
Me and my models walk the runway in my Love, Stephanie designs 2016
Do you have any good advice for growing a business, taking it to the next level with smart investments? Has something worked for you, or held you back from success? I’d love to learn more about it and try to figure out the best ways to take my business to the next level.
Me finishing up gown I made in 2023 for a special lady Michel. She said to me recently “I don’t think I’ve ever felt that gorgeous in a piece of clothing”. Words to live by!
I know I need help and can’t do alone. I also know that there are success stories and big dreams can come true, it just takes hard work, smart decisions and perseverance. And a plan.
This Boss Babe is ready for business!
Meanwhile, I’ll keep on plugging away at my existing client needs, holding up my end of the agreement, while trying to create newness and examples of my potential and sharing with my audience. Soon I will be posting about some lovely projects that I have been working on, but have to hold back the excitement until the client’s special occasion occurs so not to spoil the surprise.
Photo shoot dream project come true of a custom gown I made for lovely Payton. More please!
Life is short, time is limited, and I want to make a difference and impact in this world and in the lives of others. Even just a small part, a little influence, make someone smile and feel beautiful in what they are wearing.
That’s all I want out of this life, at least business-wise. I feel strongly that what you wear says a million words and evokes a thousand emotions. So why not that be me to make that a reality!
Nicole is a special client who heard about me through word of mouth (one of the best ways to gain new business in my opinion!). She reached out to me, sending me a message on Instagram, looking to have a coat custom made for her. She knows how to sew, which is so incredibly flattering that she asked me to do this project, however did not want to take on this big of a project for herself and felt it best to leave it to an expert.
She wanted a dressy coat to wear this winter as for her job she appears in court at times and attends executive meetings often and wanted a really nice coat to wear that makes a statement and can make the outfit, so to speak.
I was so excited that she asked me to take on the task! I got to work right away finding out what her desires were, finding inspirational photos and images, searching through patterns, and creating a PowerPoint presentation much like a mood board to present to her over an online zoom meeting.
Girl Boss prepped and ready for the Design Meeting on Zoom
I like to do these presentations for clients to show them my thought process and what I am able to achieve for them. I include images, features and benefits of patterns I have chosen, fabrics, key dates, deadlines and a working timeline, and my estimated price, all in one presentation. We go over the slides, discuss the options and make decisions together. Then I take that information and get to work. It works out great for me as I can organize my thoughts and demonstrate what I can do for them, and my clients love it and feel that I take them seriously and really care about making their project special and personal.
After going through her inspirations, patterns and examples of coats that I have made, Nicole decided on this dressy coat pattern that came out in Fall 2021 from Butterick Patterns:
Butterick 6868 coat pattern
I love this pattern! It features lovely fit and flare princess seams in the front and back of the coat, creating a vintage-inspired swingy look. The shawl collar, angled sleeve cuffs, welt pocket flaps and covered buttons are made in a contrast fabric for an elegant touch.
The line art for Butterick 6868 View A
This style of coat is reminiscent of the beautiful coat and matching dress that Jill Biden wore for the Presidential Inauguration. Her elegant outfit was designed by Gabriella Hearst and is now featured at the Smithsonian along with her other outfits worn on that day:
Jill Biden wears a dressy coat and matching dress designed by Gabriella Hearst on Inauguration Day January 2021
After taking Nicole’s measurements, purchasing the pattern and cutting out the pattern pieces, I made up a muslin mock up of the pattern and had Nicole come and try it on. She wanted the neckline raised a few inches, so this was nice to get and idea of how that would look:
Although it sort of looks like a lab coat, the pattern fits pretty well just out of the envelope! The princess seams really create a lovely shape over her figure
Nicole attended the Sewing and Quilting Expo in Puyallup, WA and purchased a beautiful cherry red wool yardage for her coat. She brought me the whole bolt, and we also went fabric shopping together, choosing the lining and contrast trim fabric for the design. She chose a lovely animal printed faux fur for the contrast trim and a caramel brown rayon for the lining. So elegant!
Color matching the thread to the coat material
After the fitting of the muslin mock-up and making a few tweaks to the pattern, I cut out and sewed up the main shell of the coat for her to try on for fit and to see the coat partially made:
The coat partially made, ready for a quick fitting
Once Nicole was good with the progress, I set up my sewing machine and got to work finishing the coat. Hours were spent cutting the lining, constructing the collar, cuffs and pocket welts out of the faux fur (that stuff makes a huge mess and gets everywhere!) and making the cute covered buttons:
The fur covered buttons look like little fuzzy critters!
I installed the welt pockets which I think were the most difficult part of the coat. They had to be at the same exact spot on the coat, and the same exact size and shape to look right. Cutting into the fabric right on the outside of the panel of the coat was nerve wracking to say the least! There is NO room for error and you can’t “un cut” it to correct any mistakes.
The fur trim looks SO good, but is definitely a pain to work with
The fabric is heavy and thick, leaving bulky seams to deal with and the need to hand sew in many spots to have the best results.
Sewing on the covered buttons was challenging!
My favorite part of making custom clothing for clients are the special touches I like to add to the project. For Nicole, I added a faux leather piping trim to the inside of the coat between the facing and the lining. This adds no purpose to the construction, just a little finishing touch and pop of color and texture to the inside of the coat:
Black piping added to the inside of the coat sandwiched between the lining and the facingSewing the lining hem by hand took about an hour, but so worth it!
Since I wanted to add another personal touch to the coat and I have the right machinery and plenty of thread, I decided to add a fancy embroidered monogram to the inside lining at the back of the coat, a secret little feature that she will see every time she slips on this beauty:
An embroidered monogram inside the coat for that special touch
After months of work, hours spent sewing by machine and by hand, and physically managing this big project, it turned out beautifully and I am proud as well as excited to hand it off for her to wear and enjoy!
Her lovely coat is complete!The shape is so elegant, timeless and tailoredShe’s ready for her entrance!
I dream of creating beautiful and elegant evening gowns, but rarely find an occasion for them, so the visions just sit in my head and sometimes make it to a sketch, but rarely go further than that.
I dream of making beautiful bridal gowns, ones that are interesting and unique, perhaps made in colors or prints other than the traditional white. Bringing in texture, color, design details that bring excitement, joy and romance to the occasion.
One occasion that came to mind that I could create a gorgeous dress for an actual wearer was senior prom in May 2023 for my friend’s daughter Payton! I’ve known Payton since she was about 9 or 10, meeting her when my good friend Kristin was dating Payton’s dad Scott. Kristin and Scott got married at a beautiful destination wedding in Tulum, Mexico which I attended, and had the honor of making little fascinators for both Kristin and Payton to wear at the wedding! So fun!
A feather and rhinestone fascinator I made for young Payton.
The feather and tulle fascinator I made for Kristin
Kiss the bride and jump for joy!
Fast forward 8 years, Payton has grown into a lovely young lady, quiet, intelligent and thoughtful, tall and slim, and just beautiful! She was perfect for my vision, and could use a new dress for her upcoming prom. I had a muse that was willing to put up with the process for months, come to my house for fittings, and model my creation to help spread the word. A perfect trade!
Pinterest has been a great resource to find inspiration and store ideas. I visit the website a few times a week to recall what I have saved and see what might be new for ideas, mostly for sewing, but also for cooking, organizing, exercise and more. I have boards for these topics, and my sewing wish lists are broken down by type of garment. I also create and share boards with my dressmaking clients to keep together what direction we are going for the project together for reference.
This recent dressmaking project has been in the works for months. I created a Pinterest board to house my ideas and visions of the outcome for an embroidered mesh gown for Payton who was willing to be my model and muse for this dress. The entire goal was to make it in time for her to wear to her senior prom in May with the intention of showcasing my work and doing some free marketing for my dressmaking business, Love, Stephanie.
Here are some of my ideas for this gown that I have pinned on Pinterest :
I love the all over 3-D floral effect of this gown.
I really like the embroidery on this gown.
The floral mesh and shape of this gown is gorgeous.
I began looking for fabrics that would aid in this vision. Knowing that this embroidered mesh look is very much in fashion nowadays, I started searching at my local fabric stores, but didn’t find anything that was of decent quality or not extremely expensive. I searched online and found this embroidered floral appliqué mesh fabric in two color ways on the app AliExpress for $14.37 a yard and it was perfect!
I liked them both so much and ordered 7 yards of each. I figured I could give Payton a choice of which color she liked best, plus use the one she didn’t choose for another dress and create a mini collection using the same fabric in two ways:
The floral on a white meshThe same floral on black mesh
As soon as it arrived all the way from China, I contacted Payton and her step mom, my good friend Kristin, to show them the fabric, let her choose her favorite and start looking for a lining.
The fabric looks amazing and attention grabbing just draped on my dress form over some white muslin!
We went off to my local favorite fabric store and found a nice lining material to go under the sheer fabric. We looked for a color that would match her skin tone and had a lot of fun while we shopped.
Approved! We found a perfect skin tone match!Daisy approves!
With the fabric choices checked off the list, I then got to work making a mock up of the dress in muslin. I should of course mention what pattern I chose to use. I had this McCalls M7927 pattern designed by David Tutera in my pattern stash of special occasion dress that I had been wanting to make.
McCalls 7927 by David TuteraMcCalls 7927 back view.
The line drawings of the pattern shows the simple shape of the dress and of course, the train which is amazing!
I chose this pattern for the lovely low V neckline, the fitted skirt with the slit and the train. I have been wanting to design more bridal gowns and thought this pattern would be good practice for construction and working with overlays and layers of fabric.
As I didn’t want an exact match to the pattern, I made a few little changes to the design. I raised the front V so that it didn’t go all the way down to the navel, and I chose not to have the little panel inset that was an option on the bodice, although considered it as maybe a sheer mesh insert there and tabled the idea. I also lowered the back neckline to a low V for more drama from the backside.
Payton came back to my studio for her muslin fitting which was quite successful. She slipped into the gown easily and it looked great on her, just in muslin! I only needed to make a few tweaks to the fit of the bodice, and lengthen the skirt to accommodate the shoes she’d probably be wearing with the gown.
Payton at her muslin fittingI needed to adjust the neckline a bit, and raise it for a little modestyThe low back and the train was going to be SO pretty!Little Sis Daisy approves again!Just the muslin mockup, sewn up and placed on my dress form, looks beautiful!
OK with the fitting out of the way, it was time to get started cutting out this GIANT dress!
Thank goodness I have the floor space to lay out and cut this monster!
Cutting out the HUGE skirt pieces of this dress was quite the challenge. I had to be strategic about it, and part of the back panel of the skirt didn’t quite fit on to the part of the fabric with the embroidery, so I had to cut it in the plain mesh edge and later overlay scraps of the embroidered parts on by hand. More on that later.
Cutting the bodice was a breeze as the pattern pieces are quite narrow and easily fit on to the fabric. I was able to be more strategic with the floral placement on the bodice and choose more of the red flowers near to her face as those were her favorite colors in the fabric.
Once I cut out the pattern pieces in the mesh, I had to cut the same pattern pieces in the underlining that went directly under the mesh, and also the lining. Lots of cutting which was not fun, back breaking actually, but it had to be done.
The bodice has a dart in it, which creates shape over a curved area, but also folds in the floral design when sewn. So to disguise the fold of the flower once I sewed the dart, I “patched” over the area by hand sewing a flower cut from a scrap of the fabric over the darts.
Hand sewing a flower patch over a dart
The next step was to underline the mesh pattern pieces with the flesh colored underling fabric, which as a crepe knit material with a slight stretch to it. Each piece was layered and basted (sewn with long stitches) together by hand to underline the entire dress. A long and tedious process for sure, but necessary to give structure and opacity to the delicate mesh.
You can see the mesh and underlining basted together in this image
After the pattern was fully underlined and the bodice and skirt were sewn together, I had another fitting with Payton to make sure all was good before adding the lining and installing the zipper.
At the final fitting, deciding on the bustle placement.
As I mentioned earlier, some of the mesh couldn’t quite fit on the pattern during the cut out process, so I had to go back and patch over some areas by hand to make it look correct. It’s hard to see in this photo, but I essentially hand sewed an area of mesh with flowers to the blank areas, carefully going around the motifs and cutting away the doubled up layered areas. This took a while, but was necessary to not have a big bald spot on the back of the dress.
You can really see the “bald” area on the upper right side of the back of the skirt in this photo It’s not easy to see what I am doing here, but that’s the point!
Once the fitting happened, it was time to sew together the lining and install it into the dress. I knew that this dress was going to be heavy to wear and drag on the ground, so I made sure to add hanging loops to the interior of the lining and a bustle to the long train.
I make most of my regular income altering bridal and special occasion gowns and dresses, so I get to see the insides of these dresses and how they are built to be pretty on the outside and functional on the inside. Most long dresses have some sort of hanging straps sewn to the inside of them to hang them up and prevent falling off the hanger and stretching out the shoulders. I love incorporating these little details on the interior of dresses that I make as I feel it adds that little touch of thoughtfulness and luxury to the dress.
For Payton’s gown, I chose a wide satin ribbon to make the hanging loops for the bodice and a narrow satin ribbon for the wrist and hanging loop for the train. Both ribbons are not seen from the outside, but I chose a nude color that matched the lining, just to be more inconspicuous.
I sewed these ribbons in, at a measured length for the area in particular, into the seams of the lining as I was sewing it together. I then also tacked the lining to the inside of the dress at the seams so that they wouldn’t pull apart and the whole dress would act as one in these areas. The same holds true for the one-point over bustle I made using little hooks and eyes, reinforced with a button underneath, as I often do for a bridal gown alteration.
The dress hanging, using the interior loops for supportYou can see the interior loop of the train doing it’s job!And the pretty satin lining, also doing it’s job!Sewing in the bustle by hand
Not shown are little foam bra cups sewn in between the lining and the interior of the dress. She isn’t busty, but needed some cup support for modesty and all as there is NO way she could wear a bra with this dress! I considered also adding boning in the bodice, but nixed that idea as she really didn’t need it.
With the dress finally done and prom rapidly approaching, I was able to recruit my amazing friends to help me plan and execute a photo shoot featuring Payton in the gown. My husband and I own a second home in Sunriver, Oregon, a beautiful and popular resort area out in Central Oregon, that we rent out on Airbnb, but also love to stay there whenever we can. It’s a great home, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and sleeps 8 guests. We were able to have Payton, her dad, stepmom, little sister, as well as my friends Mark and Julie all come and stay with us at the house and participate with the photo shoot. Mark is the photographer, his wife (and my good friend) Julie is his assistant, and of course, Payton as the model.
I created a mood board to share my ideas with Payton and my friend Mark who would be taking the photos on how I wanted the photos to look, a good location, and some images of the feeling I wanted to portray in the dress.
My crafty mood board projectFort Rock Park: A great location out in the high desert of Central Oregon, a perfect backdrop for the photos
I packed up the dress and all of the sewing supplies I might need, and we headed out to Sunriver. We got there a couple of days before the others arrived which gave me time to do some last minute finished on the gown and get it all ready for the shoot.
The big day came and we were all ready to make the hour long drive in two SUV’s from Sunriver to the location at Fort Rock. It was a gorgeous warm day which was perfect for being outside before and during the shoot.
Abby applies makeup to Payton out on the deck on this gorgeous day
Julie’s nieces Abby and Lauren were able to join us the day of the shoot to help with makeup and styling and just tag along for fun. I had met Abby before and she was wonderful to be a model for some of my dresses last year, also photos shot by her uncle Mark. It was great to have them as they both really helped out, plus are around Payton’s age (a little older) and helped her feel more comfortable and relaxed, and gave great tips on makeup and poses to do during the shoot.
We arrived at the location and were in awe of the beautiful spot with the big lava mountain stuck out in the middle of nowhere. The sky was amazing and looked almost like a fake backdrop! We got started right away with Mark taking photos, Julie helping with the equipment, the girls giving good posing direction, and me fluffing the dress whenever necessary.
The team in action!Lauren giving Payton sexy gesture direction What a great team effort!
We got some great shots in a few areas around the park, some standing in the field, some on the dirt path that went around the enormous rock, some sitting on a rock, and then some at the little abandoned town that was down the street a bit from the rock. Mark really captured it all beautifully and Payton was spectacular in the gown!
I am just overjoyed with how it all came out in the end! The gown is gorgeous, Payton looks amazing, and Mark really captured my vision. I can’t thank them all enough for their contribution to this project, it was really special and dear to my heart!
The photos are just amazing and I believe will help me take my dressmaking business to the next level.
My dear friend told me about an event that was going on in Portland that she bought a ticket for and thought I might be interested in joining her. The event was a combination fashion show, art exhibit and promotion of new happenings in the city. It was hosted in a former retail space in Pioneer Place mall , a once booming luxury mall that had been hit hard since the riots of 2020 and was loosing traffic, but is showing a renewed interest with some high end shops and new use of some of the otherwise unoccupied spaces. A new art gallery has opened in one such space in the mall, Gallery Go Go, which features local artists, hosted the event and invited other fashion, makeup and performance artists, and most notably, the amazing botanical artist, Francois Weeks. All of the amazing makeup art was done by a talented team at Event Cosmetics.
Of course, I was thrilled to hear of such a show and immediately purchased a ticket to join in the fun and also to support some local talent. Plus I got to hang out with a wonderful, fun and beautiful friend who also shared a passion for fashion and culture as I do.
I began to plan what I wanted to wear to this event as I just LOVE fashion shows and events that involve socializing, seeing amazing artists work, and dressing up!
Since the event was happening in early March, I thought it would be wise to make a statement coat or jacket of sorts so that I wouldn’t have to worry about what I was going to wear as outerwear over my outfit. I felt it was a great idea to make a unique jacket and embellish it with floral and botanical inspired embroidery, beading and appliqués, and line the asymmetric peplum with a complimentary pop of color. I gathered up my pattern ideas, materials and ordered some lovely appliqués from Etsy and began to work on it.
Some sketches of my ideaAn appliqué and beads that could work on the jacketOr these 3-D rose appliquesAnother gorgeous appliqué I purchased
If you know me at all, you know that I tend to have TOO many ideas swimming around in my head and only occasionally take the idea to a finished project. Well you guessed it, the idea was a great one, I started on it, but time just began to run out and I knew that I couldn’t finish it in time to wear to the show. Argh!
So, I tabled plan A and moved on to plan B.
I have plenty of lovely fabric in my stash, fabrics that are already embellished or printed and only need a blank slate to make them come alive. Enter the idea to make a great jacket using a pattern that I have always wanted to make and some great fabric I’ve been saving for such an occasion!
I got to work cutting out this McCalls pattern #M7879 that I had in my collection, choosing the view with the interesting leg ‘o mutton sleeve and longer hem so that I could be warm and stylish, but not too hot if it were to be hot at the event:
McCalls 7879 pattern coverThe line drawings for the pattern. I made view C
If you happen to be interested where I got the Leg ‘o Mutton description of that style of puffed sleeve, it is actually a style of sleeve that has been around since the 1800’s and is to resemble the leg of a lamb.
Did you know I also am a huge fashion history nerd? You heard it here, Folks! Love it.
On to the project!
I had this interesting floral and abstract printed cotton blend fabric that had a Scotch-guard surface treatment, perfect for a light outerwear piece, or a home decor project. It has some abstract floral print and black zebra-type stripes on a bright white background. I had purchased enough yardage of it with the intent to use to make it into a rain jacket, so it was just right.
It didn’t take too long to make up the jacket, between other client projects and teaching sewing classes, about two weeks on and off in total. Even though the jacket is fully lined and making the sleeve like that was new to me, I managed to stay up late some nights and power through it.
I tell you, with having my own sewing business, operated out of my lovely and inspiring home, I have more time, mental space and ability to do special, last minute projects like this and that makes me so, sew happy! I have all my tools, machines, notions, thread, buttons, fabrics, patterns, trims, beads; essentially all of the things I need to make most any garment at my fingertips. No need to even leave the house! Such a dream come true.
A pop of color using bias piping trim, inserted to the inside of the jacket between the lining and the facing. A little design feature I love to add to jackets and coats whenever I can.The jacket lining installed and getting close to being finished. I had this silk/spandex blend fabric in black on hand in my fabric stash. I love using silk to line better garments. It’s so luxe and slippy!
Alas, I finished the jacket just in time to take a few photos of it, put it on with the rest of my outfit, do my makeup and hair, and head out the door to meet my friend for dinner before the show.
She’s finished! I’m ready to go and excited to wear my new creation!I wore my new jacket over a black cashmere turtleneck and faux leather leggings with some Sorel booties. Perfection! #sewingismysuperpower
The show was amazing and so fun to see such wonderful creations by talented artists featured on bodies of beautiful people. The featured artist Francois Weeks created spectacular live botanical displays and wearable works of floral art. Check out some of the photos I took from my seat at the show and afterwards. Click on the photos to see some of the detail work that will blow your mind! Amazing and SO inspirational!
At the Gallery Go Go pre-show It was good to see some familiar faces!Enyinne looks fabulous, as usual!An amazing leaf mask! Poison Waters was the MC. Love her!Some moments from the show.
I was so mesmerized by the amazing arial artist, I only got this one photo of her, about to approach the arial hoop, at the very beginning of doing her magic during the show:
The arial artist, a mesmerizing show!
Even the music from the featured DJ’s was super sweet! We also got a great goodie bag that included some lip balm from Event Cosmetics that I have been loving, an amazing perfume sample, and some other great little treats to enjoy!
We had an amazing night out, seeing such talent and inspiration to be creative, and just fun to hang out with some cool people of Portland! I was perfectly comfortable and felt great in my jacket and the outfit I put together with it. I got tons of compliments on my jacket, before and after the show, as well as from my social media posts following that night. The icing on the cake happened when McCalls Pattern Company contacted me through my Instagram post, asking if they could feature my jacket on their page. WOW!!!
This journey began with a bright eyed beauty, curious to know more about what I might be able to create for her and what the process of creating a custom dress looked like. Laura contacted me, looking for a custom dress to wear to her sister’s wedding event. She wanted a dress with a 1930’s feel, one that had fabric interest with unique design details.
She had seen a dress in a movie that she loved and wanted to get a similar look. She sent me photos of screen shots from the movie, plus some inspiration shared on Pinterest
She loved the rich tones of the fabric combination, and the soft ruffled neckline of this dressShe also loves the straps of this dress
I got to work and found a pattern that was designed in the 1930’s and had the basic shape of the dress style she liked including the sweetheart neckline, the low back and the long, softly shaped skirt
I found this pattern and ordered it from Etsy
We hit the fabric store shortly after I received the pattern, and I also made a mock up of the dress for her to try on
It was my first time making a ruffle like this at the neckline of a dress. Although we like it, we decided it was a bit too much for her.The fit of the dress was great, but here we are playing with different strap placement and neckline shape
Back to the drawing board!
As the construction of the dress progressed, I kept Laura posted with details of what I was doing and got her input on any options she had.
She loves the combination of the drapey lavender chiffon with the deep plus satin. I also thought the colors were beautiful together, just the placement was not as compelling as it could be.
I brought up an idea of draping over the entire top of the dress, allowing both fabrics to have their moment. I presented her with this idea of draping and criss crossing the chiffon over the bodice.
She really like that idea, approved it, so I got going on making it happen!
I finished constructing the dress underneath by adding boning and bra cups to the lining of the dress.
The lining turned out beautifully and was a pleasure to look at as she slipped into the dress. That kind of detail makes me happy, and hopefully also the case for the wearer!
The bodice and skirt lining ready to be installed into the dress!Plenty of pining and hand sewing happening on my trusty dressformThe bodice front, sides, and eventual side drape piece, all pleated and basted, ready to be sewn together, then sewn over the main dress bodice.
So after quite a bit of trial and error, as this was my first time creating such a dress with the draping detail, I finally finished the gown!
Here are some photos of the versions I sent over to her before finishing up on her final version:
She looks so pretty and elegant, even unfinished!The drape happening in the back would also look so gorgeous! I might need to make this dress again just for fun!
And the finale!
The final gown!
Meanwhile, Portland was hit with a big snowstorm that essentially shut down the city and trapped many people at home. Well, that didn’t stop me! My sweet husband offered to drive me and the finished gown over to Laura’s house and deliver it in person in his SUV that is great in the snow. What a nice guy!
Laura was radiant in her dress as she tried it on in her bedroom! I brought along a small sewing kit and supplies to do any last minute fixes as needed.
Well, it turned out that the dress needed a little more than just a few stitches to make it perfect. So, unfortunately I had to take the dress back home and make some fitting changes to the bodice and straps to make it just right. No problem! OK, one major problem: the dress was meant for her to take along to wear at her sister’s wedding event in California the next day and it wasn’t ready. UGH!!! I was hoping to be able to make the changes that same day and drive the dress back over so she could pack it for her trip. I ran out of time and wasn’t able to make it happen. You have no idea how SO disappointing this was for me, not to mention for her as well. So she left early the next morning for California, all without the dress we worked so hard to make in time for the event. GRR, I was SO upset with myself!
Well, now the dress is complete and altered and ready to go for the next occasion she may have to wear it. All in all, Laura was such a wonderful client to work with and I hope that she’s willing to work with me again on another gorgeous creation, and possibly even teach her some sewing lessons so that she can learn to make her own beautiful and unique clothes!
Lesson learned: time management is KEY to making deadlines and leaving room for error.
The gown turned out so elegant and eye catching! Every angle of the dress has interestWe love the low back! And the drape! So pretty and elegant!
Thank you so much Laura for choosing me to create such a beautiful gown for you! I enjoyed every moment of the process, mishaps and all. Enjoy wearing your dress and may you glow and shine in it as you do so naturally! Love, Stephanie
Ode to Sew 