Author: Slmendes

  • The Joy of a Black Jersey Jumpsuit

    The Joy of a Black Jersey Jumpsuit

    Black jersey jumpsuit from McCalls 7135

    I finished this jumpsuit just in time to cram into my luggage to bring to the Pattern Review Weekend in LA this past weekend and it was perfect for the occasion! I met with some wonderful fellow sewing enthusiasts and we talked about and shared all things sewing related all weekend. It was amazing!

    Speaking of amazing, this jumpsuit was a joy to wear and SO comfortable! I got many compliments on it and it was fun to wear!

    I used McCalls pattern 7135 from Khaliah Ali view C.

    Khaliah Ali in her jumpsuit and drape cardigan

    McCalls 7135 Jumpsuit view C

    I have been wanting to make and wear a jumpsuit for some time now, but didn’t think it would look good on me and might pull and tug in all the wrong places. I decided to go for it and tried out this pattern.

    I added 5 inches to the pant leg at the “lengthen/shorten here” line, added 1 inch at the bodice front and back, and cut the back with a seam allowance instead of on the fold as the pattern instructed in order to add an exposed zipper here for fashion interest and for ease in removing the garment.

    Next time I make this pattern, I would add another inch to the leg so that I can actually make a hem, and take out some vertical length I added to the back so that it doesn’t bag out (I added too much here) for a better fit.

    I used a strip of fusible knit interfacing to insert the exposed zipper and it turned out great:

    Back of jumpsuit with zipper

     

    So, I think that with experimentation, adjusting for fit, and the right fabric (a.k.a trial and error), plus bumping up the exercise and carefully watching what I eat, jumpsuits are a possibility for me and I will try this pattern, and/or other jumpsuit patterns, in the near future. Why not! If Diane von Furstenberg can do it, and sell out of it, why can’t I!

    (Cue: Fashion Inspiration):

    Jersey jumpsuit by DVF

    Piper Gore knit jumpsuit with pockets

    I am overjoyed with my newly sewn jumpsuit, and am glad I tried it out!

    Jumpsuit McCalls 7135

    With my new sewing buddy Kristin (a.k.a LeftCoast) at PatternReview weekend in Los Angeles.
    With my new sewing buddy Kristin (a.k.a LeftCoast) at PatternReview weekend in Los Angeles.
  • Plaid Shawl Transformation into Throw Pillows

    Plaid Shawl Transformation into Throw Pillows

    My friend purchased this lovely plaid fringed shawl (no, it is NOT Burberry!) and asked my to make some throw pillows out of it:

     

    Plaid Shawl with fringe
    Plaid Shawl with fringe

     

    The pillows were pretty easy to make, however it did take some extra time to plan out the cutting in order to keep the fringe border intact and on the outside of the pillow edges and to get the invisible zippers installed correctly.

     

    Normally making a pillow with fringe or a piped edge, you can just sew right sides together with the fringe or piping sandwiched between the two layers and facing to the inside, then it is turned right side out. However, this fringe was already part of the edge, so I opted to first sew the long sides, with the invisible zipper prestitched on, right sides together, but the fringed edges I top stitched them closed on the outside, close to the fringe:

    Top stitching the fringed edge
    Top stitching the fringed edge

    Unfortunately, I was not able to match the plaid on the front of the pillows to the backsides which is a little disappointing. I would have needed more fabric to do this (probably another entire shawl!) or cut off the fringe from the shawl and reattach it as trim.

    These pillows took about three hours to make, including the strategic cutting of the shawl and sewing.

    Taa Daa!

    Pillows with fringe

    Overall, they came out really nice and make great accent pillows for a couch or a bed. I hope my friend enjoys them for years to come!

    Plaid pillows with fringe
    Plaid pillows with fringe made from a shawl

     

  • Colorful Print BurdaStyle Tube Dress: Possible Contest Winner!

    Colorful Print BurdaStyle Tube Dress: Possible Contest Winner!

    BurdaStyle.com was taking entries for making the Gathered Tube Dress pattern and the winner would be featured as the pattern model in place of the illustration:

    BurdaStyle Gathered Tube Dress 04/2010 #165

    I decided that this was an easy enough pattern, and I could make it up quickly with some nice fabric. It definitely was a fast and easy sewing pattern, with only a front and a back pattern piece, a measured and fabric strip for the waist elastic casing. The entire dress took only about 3 hours to make it. Downloading it from the BurdaStyle website and taping the pattern pieces together took the most time actually!

    Silk Charmeuse Print Strapless Dress

    I ran out to Mill End Store in Beaverton, OR and grabbed up this lovely printed silk as I felt this would be great fabric for this dress. I did need more fabric than the dress calls for because I wanted to try to match the colors of the pattern at the side seams. The lovely ladies at the fabric store helped me to decide on this fabric as they felt it was artistic and colorful and would stand out in photos.

    Also, thanks to two of my super cool girlfriends, they help pick a great spot as a backdrop to take photos and snapped away! Thanks Girlfriends!

    Printed silk strapless dress

    Gathered Tube Dress #165

    I am happy with my dress, although I should have taken a few extra minutes and measured the pattern pieces again, as I feel that the fit around my hips is a bit too tight, and I fiddled with that the whole time I was wearing it. The annoying, ill-fitting half-slip I was wearing under this didn’t help either.

    I was informed today that I am actually one of the four finalist in the contest! So if I win, you might be seeing me in my dress as the model for this sewing pattern on BurdaStyle.com. Pretty cool!

    Member Model? Maybe so!

  • Printed Silk Tank Top

    Printed Silk Tank Top

    I felt the itch to sew up something quick and easy to wear, so I made up this little silk top using Simplicity 1253 pattern and some lovely Derek Lam printed silk/lycra fabric:

    Simplicity 1253 top in Derek Lam printed silk
    Simplicity 1253 top in Derek Lam printed silk
    Simplicity 1253 in Derek Lam designer silk
    Simplicity 1253 in Derek Lam designer silk

    This little top pattern took just a couple of days of on and off sewing time and under 2 yards of fabric. It features a pleated front, hi/low hem and a neck band.

    Front neck pleat detail
    Front neck pleat detail

    The neck band took a little time to sew on, as I chose to sew the inside enclosing seam by hand instead of the stitch in the ditch method that the pattern has you do. This method NEVER turns out well for me, so I just take out my needle, thread and thimble and get to work hand sewing:

    Slip stitching the inside of the neck band by hand
    Slip stitching the inside of the neck band by hand

    There is a little keyhole opening in the back with a loop and button closure which is a nice little feature:

    back of top with loop and button closure
    back of top with loop and button closure

    I like to layer these little silk tops under jackets and cardigans or on their own:

    My new top layered under a jacket
    My new top layered under a jacket

    I almost always have inspiration styles after which I try to model my sewing projects:

    Joie "Corette" printed silk tank $158
    Joie “Corette” printed silk tank $158
    Joie printed silk tank top
    Joie printed silk tank top
  • Vogue 8847 Silk Crepe Shirtdress

    Vogue 8847 Silk Crepe Shirtdress

    Vogue 8847 in Silk Crepe de Chine
    Vogue 8847 in Silk Crepe de Chine

    I made up this nice shirt dress in a nice Liberty silk crepe de chine print using Vogue 8847 pattern (now out print unfortunately).

    Vogue 8847 pattern photo
    Vogue 8847 pattern photo
    Vogue 8847 line drawing
    Vogue 8847 line drawing

    It was not too bad of a pattern to sew, it took me a couple of weeks over weekends and evenings after work. The pattern features a stand up collar, open placket, self-lined yoke, long sleeve gathered into a barrel cuff and self belt. I chose to not add the pockets because the fabric I used was pretty light and delicate, and I thought that the pockets would just weigh down the dress, especially if I had my hands in them.

    I made View A essentially for the collar style and the length of the dress, modifying the hem to be just straight across instead of curved at the front, split at the sides and straight at the back as the pattern features.

    I added 2 inches to the front and back pattern pieces of the dress in order to have enough length in the torso and for the dress to “blouse” when I belted it:

    Added 2" in length to the front and back pattern pieces
    Added 2″ in length to the front and back pattern pieces

    I cut out the pattern pieces of the dress as best I could, not really following the pattern cutting layout for view A, which calls for an insane amount of fabric, essentially 6-7 yards of fabric, if using a border print. I just went by view B to estimate the amount of fabric to purchase, more like 3 1/2 yards of 45″ wide material.

    Instead of using sew-in or fusible interfacing, I used silk organza to interface the front facing and the collar. This was a great suggestion from the sales associate at Josephine’s Dry Goods, the wonderful fabric store where I purchased the material.

    used in the front facing and collar pieces
    silk organza used in the front facing and collar pieces as interfacing

    I used hand basting with silk thread to baste the front facing to the front of the dress:

    front facing basting stitches to mark the cutting line
    front facing basting stitches to mark the cutting line

    One part of the instructions were missing, the step between 11 and 12, where you are to sew the yoke back to the yoke front, attaching the front of the dress to the back of the dress, so that is something to take note of.

    It took some time and careful pinning to get the gathers at the yoke just right:

    Using many pins to gather the yoke.

    I love how this dress turned out and am quite happy with the results! It is a lovely, casual yet elegant dress to wear and I just love this Liberty printed silk!

    Back view of Vogue 8847 dress
    Back view of Vogue 8847 dress
    Side view of dress
    Side view of dress

    This dress reminds me of some dress styles that I have been saving in my sewing inspiration files like these:

    Joie "Marlola" silk shirtdress $358
    Joie “Marlola” silk shirtdress $358
    Open placket dress Zulily
    Open placket dress Zulily
    DVF Silk Freya dress $398
    Diane von Furstenberg Silk Freya dress $398
    Printed shirt dress
    Piperline Collection printed silk gathered shirtdress with pockets

    I am sure I will get a lot of wear out of this dress, and would be more than willing to make it again:

    V8847 side front
    V8847 side front
    IMAG3373
    This photo really makes the fabric look blue!
    Wearing my new silk dress!
    Wearing my new silk dress!
    Me enjoying my new fabulous silk dress!
    Me enjoying my new fabulous silk dress!
  • Tie Neck Silk Blouse-Coral Pink Charmeuse

    Tie Neck Silk Blouse-Coral Pink Charmeuse

    OK, maybe these tie neck or “pussy bow” style tops are old school, maybe they are haute couture. I don’t know for sure. All I know is I love them. And, I know that I will make them over and over again, until I cannot bare to make any more:

    IMAG3333

    This beauty I made for my stunning brunette friend (you know how you are 🙂 ) as a gift. I have had this pinky/coral colored lustrous silk charmeuse for about two years now, keeping Her in mind to make a top for. I finally had her body measurements (I measured them for her on Thanksgiving 2014 before dinner), and figured she would look really nice in a lower cut, tie neck blouse, in a favorite color that she loves, not to mention looks really pretty on her.

    I used Simplicity 1784 pattern, view A,  to make this blouse.

    Simplicity 1784                                                   1784_fbvSimplicity

     

    I ran out to Button Emporium to find some pretty , unique, and special buttons to use for this top. I found some lovely German Word War II-era pink glass buttons and grabbed up enough, plus extra, to button up this beauty.

    Antique German glass buttons
    Buttoned barrel sleeve cuff

     

    Front buttons of blouse
    Front buttons of blouse

    I attempted to make this top as nicely as I could. I used French seams for the side, sleeve and armhole sleeves, plus hand stitched the interior of the cuff and neckline seams. Next time I make this top, or any top like this, I will not use fusible interfacing, at least not in the neck facing, because it left the facing a little warpy and stiff, plus it shows a little. I will try a silk organza, or the self material, for any interfacing parts the next time.

    I have seen, and Pinned, several tops and blouses lately, that were an inspiration for this creation:

    7358d5552191b2ed8f2e7132851899dc                97a50a5726afca5993a13598ceb541e4                   0f494dd2f340a14778af6468a061cccc57d8a02dd2aa834480f90c7ea325921a

     

    I hope that She loves and enjoys this top and can wear it for many years to come. Who knows, maybe she will commission me to make her more of these, or similar ones, to add to her wardrobe and wear for the future. I would LOVE to do that! For Her, or anyone else who would like that. And who can afford me too 😉

    back of silk blouse

    IMAG3331

  • Sapphire Silk Top

    Sapphire Silk Top

    in sapphire blue silk charmeuse

    I just finished this lovely silk charmeuse top made in a gorgeous shade of blue. I picked this color blue to wear with the new sapphire ring my husband bought for me while on vacation in Mexico.

    I used Simplicity 1315 pattern view A to make this top, using French seams to finish the side, sleeve and raglan sleeve seams. The pattern features a pleated neckline, raglan sleeves and barrel cuffs. There are also options to embellish the cuff or sleeve, but I chose not to embellish this time. I would, however, love to make this top again and possibly do some beadwork on the cuffs of the top. How pretty would that be!

    I managed to find some lovely little blue buttons made in Italy with tiny rhinestone insets to use for this blouse at Fabric Depot in Portland, OR. So, the little special buttons give a nice touch to the finishings of this top.

    Sleeve and cuff detail

    The top was not too difficult to sew. The hardest part was hand sewing the neck band all the way around the neck edge. Well, that was not actually difficult, it was just time consuming. The slippery fabric was a challenge to manage and sew at times, but I have dealt with slippery silk before and knew how to handle it.

    I found some inspiration photos of similar silk tops and blouses on the internet to compare to this look:

    1e06cbd9361ac858322d843b26d80420

    124630103
    Joie raglan sleeve silk top $258
    126318492
    Cluny silk blend raglan sleeve top $197

    Overall, I love my new blouse and love to wear it with my shiny new beautiful ring!

    Front of blouse          silk charmeuse raglan sleeve top with pleated neckline.

  • My First Corset!

    My First Corset!

    I finally completed making my very first corset, and I know this will not be my last!

    Laughing Moon Mercantile pattern #100 corset made in polyester jacquard with velvet and ruffle trim
    Laughing Moon Mercantile pattern #100 corset made in polyester jacquard with velvet and ruffle trim.

    I loved every moment of making this corset, even though it was a long and sometimes downright difficult project, it was just exciting!

    I made this corset as a part of the Corset Making Class at Portland Sewing School in Portland, Oregon with instructor Jason Bray. Jason works in the costume department at Portland Opera and knows how to make a corset, or any other theatrical costume, by heart. He is amazing, and so fun to learn from!

    Jason Bray fitting a student's corset
    Jason Bray in Corset Class

    For this class, we used Laughing Mercantile #100 Dore and Silverado Corset pattern kit.

    CMS-K-LMDORE

    The kits, which were ordered in one size as needed, came with the corset, chemise and drawers patterns and sewing instructions, coutil for the inner corset construction, the busk, steel grommets, steel spiral boning, boning casing, twill tape for a waist stay 5 yards of lacing, and even an awl for setting the grommets. Everything I needed was included in the kit I ordered to make the corset besides the fashion fabric, lining and any trim I wanted to make my corset out of. I made View A, the Dore.

    We made up a muslin of the pattern according to the size that we each ordered. From there, we partnered up and fitted each other’s muslin in class, taking careful consideration to fit and making markings on the muslin as needed.

    After the muslin was a good fit, we transferred our newly custom fit pattern on to oak tag.

    Oak Tag Pattern Pieces of Corset

    This is really great because I now have a custom fit corset pattern ready to go and sew up in whatever other material I want and really to be used as a base of other designs! Love it!

    After the pattern was ready, we cut out the coutil material, as well as the fashion fabric, from our 5 pattern pieces. I chose a blue and black polyester jacquard material for the corset and Ambiance bemberg rayon lining. I cut my lining later in the process.

    corset cut out in coutil material
    corset cut out in coutil material with boning casings placed

    I serged the raw edges of my coutil, fashion fabric and lining pieces before sewing as both tended to fray easily. This step of serging the raw edges was quite helpful and made for a better interior of the corset. We carefully planned the placement of each boning (I think I used about 14 bones in all!) and then sewed the narrow boning casing to the coutil, leaving the top edge of the casing open to later insert the boning. Four of the steel bonings were used at the both sides of the grommets to support the openings here.

    We then sewed a baby flannel backing to the interior of the coutil pieces to give some comfort between the boning casings and the inside of the tight fitting garment. This makes the corset look a bit more padded than I thought it would, and would not work for all fabrics I may want to make a corset out of, but it worked for this one.

    Then it was time to insert the busk in the front. This step took some time as we had to carefully mark the placement and openings for the eye parts of the busk to stick out, then perfect placement of the coordinating nob part of the busk that fits into the eye parts as a front closure to the corset.

    Front (busk) of corset

    After the front was finished, we moved on to setting the grommets. This also was a very precise process, and sometimes downright difficult part of the constructions.Those grommets were hard to set!

    Grommets and lacing

    I hand-sewed the velvet cording and the grosgrain ruffled trims to the bottom and top edges of the corset before hand sewing the lining to the corset. This hand-sewing took a long time, but was necessary for control of the desired outcome of trim and fabric, and would never have worked sewing with the sewing machine. I have actually come to enjoy the process of hand sewing in most cases and can get though it relatively quickly. Close-up photos of these details will be added later.

    I really enjoyed making this corset! I aspire to make more corsets such as lace, velvet, brocade, embellished and embroidered fabrics, and even incorporate them into dress construction or making really good quality costumes if the occasion arises. Corsets are beautiful!

    I, of course, have inspiration photos of gorgeous corsets to share!

    15475696e0241fe1ebb7b41987bd4dc4                             09d743a51983d415f5be0a8e1e0fdd0a                          d8ee28234bcb3d27d05559dc447d060c

    So, if you know anyone who wants or needs a custom corset, call me!

  • Short and Sweet Wedding Dress

    D&K3
    Impromtu Wedding Dress!

     

     

    Katrina and Duncan got married! Yayyyyy!!!! They got engaged, then 6 weeks later, decided to tie the knot in a civil ceremony at the courthouse. She was pressed to find a wedding dress quickly, and thought of me and how fast I can churn out a nice dress.

    She had a dress style in mind. She wanted a fit and flare short dress (this is wedding #2 for her, so this was an opportunity to wear an alternative wedding dress), nothing too fancy, but appropriate for the occasion. At first, I copied a really casual knit dress that she had in her wardrobe that she liked the fit, and traced out a new pattern, but then as we talked about materials and what she was looking for, a commercial pattern was a better choice as I knew that there was plenty of variety of patterns to choose from to make a nice little dress. We looked through pattern books and found this New Look pattern to fit the bill perfectly:

    New Look 6262 pattern                         New Look 6262 line drawings

    So we went shopping, but not at a bridal shop, but the fabric store. Fabric Depot in Portland, Oregon is the best store in town for bridal and special occasion fabrics. She fell in love with this lovely embellished ruffled tulle fabric:

    Embellished ruffled tulle fabric

    This fabric was perfect for the skirt! She wanted a solid top, so we found a perfectly matching off white satin to match.

    The total cost of materials, including lining and a zipper, was about $30 (I had a coupon!). Awesome!!!!!

    We didn’t have a lot of time to make this dress (one week actually), so I got to work immediately to make a muslin. I was done with tracing out the pattern, the cutting out and sewing the muslin within 2 hours, so the same day that we bought the fabric, I went over to her house to fit the muslin.

    done in 2 hours!
    muslin done in 2 hours!

    She is tiny on the top, so I did have to take a good amount on the bodice back and front darts of the dress, but nothing too crazy. After making the fit changes to the original pattern, I cut out the fashion materials and lining. The original pattern does not actually have a lining included with the instructions, just facings at the neckline and bias binding at the armholes, but we needed a lining for this dress. Not a problem, I know how to line a dress.

    So, within 5 days, I had the dress nearly done and just wanted to fit her before I put in the zipper and hem.

    cute, but something is not 100% right with the fit of the bodice
    cute, but something is not 100% right with the fit of the bodice

    IMAG3104

    The dress looked adorable on her, although I was not really happy with how the bodice fit. It bubbled out a bit at the top of the V neckline and stuck out. I must have done something wrong with the fit changes and maybe over compensated for something without adding somewhere else.

    Well, she was OK and happy with it, and we were essentially out of time to make any changes, so we went with what it was. If I had more time, I would have remade the bodice.

    So here is the finished dress on my mannequin:

    added a satin ribbon at the waist
    added a satin ribbon at the waist

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

    Not too shabby for a quick dress custom made in less than a week!

    I found this dress on Pinterest that is a similar look, Ted Baker London selling at Nordstrom for $675!:

    'Flawra' Rosette Detail Fit & Flare Dress
    ‘Flawra’ Rosette Detail Fit & Flare Dress

    She was so happy, pretty and cute in her new dress for her wedding, and splurged on a fabulous pair of blue shoes to wear! Success!!!!

    IMAG3170

    D&K1

    D&K2

     

    Congratulations Katrina and Duncan and best wishes for a long and happy marriage!

    Love, Stephanie

  • Red Wool Crepe Simple Sheath Dress

    I have no idea why I left this dress project left unfinished for a year. WHY!!!!????

    made from Butterick 5211 pattern
    made from Butterick 5211 pattern

     

    This dress was easy to make and easy to wear. I have no idea why I waited so long to finish it!

     

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA                                       OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

     

    As I recall, the pattern was a pretty easy one to follow. It is out of print now, but I’m sure still easy to track down. I made View B. It is just a front and back pattern piece. unlined, has a faced neckline and a back seam. A self belt is optional as well.

    I used a nice dress weight wool crepe in red bought from Mill End in Milwaukie, OR. The metal zipper is from Fabric Depot in Portland.

    If I make this again, I’d probably line it, just to make a better dress, and avoid wearing a slip underneath. However, in a lighter weight material, like silk or linen, a lining would not be necessary.

    This dress could be made up nicely in many fabric types, and possibly an elastic waist addition for more waist shaping.

    Here are some similar dress looks that could be easily made from this pattern:

    Sheath dress in Tan with self belt             Sheath dress in burgundy with a belt and side pockets              Sheath dress with waistline in blue

     

     

    I am happy with my new dress and glad that I finally finished it!

    Butterick 5211
    Little Red Wool Dress