Tag: handmade

  • A Crisp White Suit

    A Crisp White Suit

    There is something just so fresh and cool about a white suit. It’s bold, bright and daring, but looks effortless and alluring.

    White Pantsuit wedding guest

    I’ve been excited to add at least one pant suit and/or pant options to my bridal collection. A wedding ceremony is a perfect opportunity to wear such an outfit, whether it’s the bride or a wedding guest wearing this eye-catching combination.

    So with about 5 yards of nice fabric including linen, rayon, tropical weight wool, silk or a blend, as long as it has a nice drape with a firm enough hand to endure the nature of the garments, you’re good to go! Oh, and interfacing, lining, buttons, a zipper, needles, thread, tailors chalk, a sewing machine, iron and all the other million little sewing tools, and about 20 hours of uninterrupted free time, then you’re good to go!

    In 2024, I made this 3 piece white linen suit for my collection and runway show. I did a tailored blazer, wide leg trouser and a corset. It turned out great and looked amazing on anyone who tried it on:

    White suit on Michel
    White suit on Orenda

    The suit looks great on Michel, but it was way too big on her. It fit Orenda really well, so I asked her to wear the suit in my runway show, and now is the proud owner of the suit as she purchased it from me! So cool…

    Orenda looks amazing! in this suit!

    I wanted to try more versions of a white suit, so I made a new one. This time, I used a more fitted jacket pattern with a nipped in waist and strong shoulders.

    I used Vogue Patterns once again, this time Vogue 2016 for the jacket and Vogue 9361 for the pants:

    I love the lines of the blazer pattern with the seams, the pleat in the shoulder, the collar and the welt pockets with flaps. It was a difficult pattern to sew with all of these details, the lining and getting the whole jacket to look crisp, tailored and well made. The pants, although still tailored, were much easier to make in comparison.

    Luckily, making them both straight from the envelope with no alterations, fit my model Tiffany perfectly and looks amazing in the photos we did at the planned photo shoot we had in early April:

    With all this white pantsuit wonderfulness happening, I figured that I needed one for myself! Luckily, I was invited to participate in a fashion showcase at a fancy shmancy club in Portland where I could show come of my collection and have more exposure in my community, and the theme included wearing all white for the participants and the guests of the show. I shopped my fabric and pattern stash and happened to have enough white linen to make another pantsuit. Cool!

    For me, I chose a jacket pattern that has an interesting tie closure for something a bit different from the usual blazer style. I, of course, referred to Pinterest for inspiration on the style and found some great examples:

    I had this pattern from Butterick already on hand, perfect for the outfit:

    Butterick 6820 Pattern

    Perfect! The only thing I don’t like about the pattern is the fact that the jacket does not come with instructions on lining it. If I make it again (which I most likely will), I will draft a lining pattern for it to really elevate the look, have better structure, and be more comfortable.

    Overall, I absolutely LOVE how it turned out!

    The fashion showcase event ended up being cancelled (boo!). Although a major disappointment for myself and all who were participating, it was a great reason to make up this outfit as well as new pieces for the show, so not all was lost.

    I hope to get the chance to create more outfits like these, either for clients, shows or for myself! I love to try new patterns, develop my sewing and tailoring skills, and create beautiful clothes that last and are enjoyable for the wearer. I know that I feel a boost of confidence when I am wearing something that makes me feel and look good and I hope to evoke that feeling for others through the garments that I make or alter. After all, my motto is Dream Garments Come True!

    Love,

    Stephanie

  • 2025 New Years Resolutions, Goals and Aspirations

    2025 New Years Resolutions, Goals and Aspirations

    Yours, Truly, beaming with excitement, pride and joy, at my Love, Stephanie shop opening on January 6, 2024. Also wearing a new dress I made and a fascinator also made by me.

    Foreshadowing at it’s finest!

    When the inevitable New Year’s Day rolls around and we all need to pick ourselves up, start a new year, and think about what you’d like to accomplish in the next 12 months. Of course, this takes reflection on the year (or years) that just passed whether it was good or bad, and that could conjure up some feelings of many kinds.

    As I write this blog as a personal journal, I feel the need to write down my thoughts whether anyone is reading it or not. I don’t aim to find the answers or get a response, I just want to write and get it all down while I am thinking of it for my own clarity and peace of mind.

    First up: reflection. 2024 was a busy, eventful and educational year for me. There were some highlights that I would like to review in order to refresh my memory and keep me motivated. I am going to break the highlights of the year down by month as I go back over my calendar just to keep it in chronological order.

    • January
      • I had my grand opening party of the little shop-in-shop I set up at the hair salon Zen Salon at the Landing in Portland.
      • This was at first a great idea to have this shop as a place to meet clients outside my home and to also showcase some of my makes
      • This worked really well, for a while. I met some new clients at this shop for meetings and fittings, and displayed some dresses in the shop window, and gained some exposure. After a few months, however I wasn’t using the space as I thought I would, didn’t feel that I was gaining any new customers, and it felt a bit strange to be in someone else’s space with my stuff there taking up her space, so we discontinued the contract by the end of March.
      • That was all good as my business aspirations began to pivot come March…
      • January was actually a really good month in terms of new beginnings. I met some wonderful new clients and began to make plans to create new garments for them which was a great foresight to the year ahead! This, I feel, was attributed to all of the good “vibes” I was giving off and receiving beginning with the opening of the shop. So, maybe the shop was just a token of change, development and learning and just not the right timing for the concept, yet manifested into something much more. I’m going with that…
    • February
      • ASDP (Association of Sewing and Design Professionals) Strategic Planning Meeting takes place in Portland, OR. The annual ASDP conference is scheduled to take place in Portland, OR in October. I am on the Board for the group as VP of Communications and was also nominated the Fashion Show Coordinator for the conference. I really wanted to contribute as much as I could to making the conference the best we could, so I gave it my all (or what “all” I had available)
      • I balanced ASDP commitments, client meetings and deadlines, teaching sewing classes as well as finding time to spend with Tom and friends. The month flew by!
      • Went snowmobiling in Bend with our good friend couple-super fun
      • My dear aunt Marilyn sadly passes away 😦
    • March
      • Our kitchen renovation was underway and we had to deal with all of that mess and chaos
      • I took on a custom rush job for some silk bridesmaid dresses and matching neckties. I was approached to do the job through a wedding planner which was a first for me. That was quite exciting yet completely nerve-wracking. It was so wonderful working with the ladies, the pay was great, it really boosted my confidence, however the the results and outcome of the dresses for the April event were less than I had hoped and I ended up with a disappointed customer (the one with the checkbook, not the 2 bridesmaids; they were wonderful and gorgeous). I certainly learned from this!
      • I once again volunteered as an alterations seamstress for Abby’s Closet Prom Dress Giveaway for the 4th year. This is always fun and a whirlwind affair, and I am so happy that I can give back to others with the skill of sewing and alterations.
      • I agreed and signed the contract in March to have a runway collection show at FashionXT! This was a huge decision and a big chunk of money I took out from savings in order to do this, but it’s been a dream of mine to do, and with the encouragement and backing of Tom and my good friends, I decided that now is the time and went for it! I am so glad I trusted my gut and went for it!
      • I had more new clients requesting my services and plenty of deadlines to meet, but began to think of the months ahead and the time I would need to devote to making the collection. I decided I needed to halt all new requests (maybe a couple of irresistible ones sprinkled in!) and focus on what I need to do.
      • Paid off my car
      • Purchased a brand new industrial sewing machine and a new dress form
    • April
      • Planning for the collection begins
        • I created an outline, timeline and plan, on paper (and computer) and really wanted to make sure I had time to work hard, focus and do a good job
        • bought a new folder and notebook to keep all my notes and paperwork pertaining to FashionXT together. It’s a simple thing, but works for me and really kept me organized.
        • I began to make lists, spreadsheets and schedules of all sorts to keep my head straight
        • I met up with my good friends who are all very smart and have unique sense of style. We discussed my concepts for the collection to get their honest feedback and suggestions. I named the group the Fashion Femmes
        • I am a major procrastinator, but knew I did not have time for this nasty habit of mine and needed to really choose: prioritize & focus or fail.
      • I wrapped up several client deadlines and got them out of the way, so to speak.
      • I discontinued my contract at Zen Salon and did not book any new client meetings for alterations or custom work
      • Had an advertisement in LO Monthly magazine
      • Joined the Lake Oswego Chamber of Commerce
      • Launched ecommerce shopping availability on website beginning with tote bags-sold out! (actually I sold a total of 4 and gave away most of the others to friends).
    • May
      • Continued to work on client projects that needed attention, making mini-deadlines to keep on track
      • Continued to create fashion collection
      • Continued with teaching sewing lessons
    • June
      • Took and official sewing hiatus, solely focus on prepping for the collection
        • I got a lot of work done during this time, spending more than a week in Sunriver cutting and sewing
      • Attended the Portland Frocktails event that took place at Maryhill Museum. So fun! I wore the caftan I made and got a ton of compliments on it
      • Went out on the boat several times when we had time. Love that!
      • Had my dental implant complete, so glad to get that overwith
    • July
      • Mainly focused on sewing the collection, sewing every day, all day
      • Tom and I seriously considered buying a beautiful house out in wine country of Oregon, complete with it’s own little vineyard and huge garden with an amazing view of the mountains to die for. Dreamy to say the least, but the timing is just not right. Boo!
    • August
      • Took in an intern student from Portland Fashion Institute, Robbyn.
        • best decision EVER!
      • Robbyn came over once a week and helped me with marketing, creating content, as well as sewing. She took work home with her as well.
        • she made the headpieces for the collection
        • she is just amazing and so creatively gifted!
      • She kept track of her hours and I paid Robbyn for her time.
      • Robbyn was AMAZING! She was so helpful in so many ways. I could not have done it all without her.
      • Collection try-on session with friend Michel. She’s the bomb.com
      • I did take on a new custom bridal client at this time, Hannah, having our initial meetings and began to plan for her August 2025 wedding
      • Trip to Sunriver, kayaked the Deshuetes River with Tom. Super fun, and productive too!
    • September
      • 5th wedding anniversary celebration with Tom
      • Met with my Fashion Femmes to go over my collection and see what might be missing or needed help
      • Prepped to be ready for the FashionXT model fittings
      • Model fittings 9/22
        • enlisted the help of Robbyn and Julie
        • really fun and exciting, the models were all gorgeous and amazing
      • After the fittings, made a plan to alter and revise anything from the notes
      • Continued to work on and finish the collection
      • Did a ticket giveaway for 2 tickets to my show at FashionXT.
      • Excitement and anticipation builds for the show coming up in October! EEEIIIKKK!
      • Got an invitation to participate in another fashion show happening in December for Fashion Cares which I accepted and paid for the entry
        • This was a smaller show, with alternative models and audience, but another opportunity to showcase my makes
      • All the while worked on deadlines and planning for the upcoming ASDP conference happening at the end of October
    • October
      • Runway collection fashion show at FashionXT happens Thursday October 3rd!
        • craziness, but so exciting
        • after all the planning, I made it all happen in time and on schedule. BOOM!
        • did a little interview with Inside Fashion Design at the show. It’s been posted on YouTube
      • Posted as much as I could on social media about my show and got lots of wonderful feedback
        • favorite looks were the Velvet Forest Bride, the ball gown, Lacey the fitted halter mermaid gown and the linen pantsuit and corset
      • I immediately began to think of what I wanted to do next: another collection, marketing and selling of the current collection, taking a break, trying to earn money to pay myself back, ALL of the things!
      • Tom’s birthday, nephews Nick & Coby’s 30th birthday
      • Met with Fashion Cares models to plan what to make for them or what they could wear from my current collection
      • ASDP Annual Conference happens 10/23-10/27
        • seems like a blur, but it was wonderful and I took some great classes
        • the fashion show was a hit, although a bit chaotic
        • Terri stays with us a few days and really helps me organize my fabric stash
        • accomplished part of a module towards my MSDP certificate with the fitting module & toile evaluation
        • I had a lot of fun, but glad its over
        • I am proud to be on the board and my position and input is valued
    • November
      • Made and met client deadlines
      • Made a few new pieces including a nice floral blazer
      • Fashion Cares show gets cancelled due to low ticket sales and not enough sponsorship
        • this was sad, but also a relief for my busy schedule
      • Hosted Thanksgiving
      • Conducted interview video with FashionXT marketing team about my experience as a designer in the show
    • December
      • Photo Shoot with FashionXT production for a lookbook of my collection
        • really great results, 100% worth the investment
        • photos to be used to boost my website and marketing
        • was a wonderful experience working with the stylist, photographer and beautiful models to get some professional shots
      • Hosted annual Christmas party which was a huge hit
      • Made some Christmas gifts including of 5 pairs of flannel PJ pants for family
      • My birthday 12/28!
      • Made a coat for myself
      • Made an outfit for New Years Eve, a lovely ball skirt worn with a lace top I made about 6 years ago. I also made a matching neck tie for Tom. I loved it!

    Those are the highlights of 2024! I could go into way more detail, and I am sure that I probably missed a thing or two, but WOW, I got a heck of lot done! I know for a fact that I did not make nearly as much money or have as many clients as I did in 2023, therefore did not make my earnings goal for the year, but I feel the quality of my work definitely improved, the value of each project I did was more than I have done in the past, and what I accomplished will pay off somehow in the near future, so that is what was impactful to me. I am very proud of my hard work, dedication and accomplishments in the year of 2024 and am excited to meet and exceed my expectations for 2025.


    With that, here are a few goals and aspirations that come to mind for the year ahead:

    • Finish up some unfinished personal sewing projects I have laying around that got bumped off the priority list
    • Refrain from starting a new project until an old one is complete
    • Go on a spending diet and build back my savings
    • Really focus on what I’d like to prioritize for what I want to make (sew) and how it will fit in to what I want to accomplish
    • Make a plan of action
    • Make a sensible business plan
    • Keep good financial records
    • Enter Threads Magazine Sewing Challenge
    • Try to complete MSDP Certificate through ASDP
    • Design and make another collection, this time using what worked well the last time and let go of the things that didn’t work
      • even if it never gets made, it’s good practice to plan and keep drawing out ideas
    • Clean up my website and refresh the content, keep it relevant
    • Invest in professional help for my marketing content, and sewing help when needed
    • Make my own patterns and designs, try to be different, unique and showcase my aesthetic
    • Be creative in other ways and my other interests besides sewing garments
      • embroidery, beading, fabric manipulation
      • sewing home decor, artistic creations, quilting, making my own textiles
      • drawing, painting, wood working, DIY home projects
      • gardening, cooking
      • exercise, getting outdoors, hiking, biking, long walks, go to the gym and use home exercise equipment
      • boating, kayaking, paddle boarding as much as possible: we live on a lake and have access to it literally in our back yard, so no excuses!
    • Read more books
    • Blog and write regularly
    • Play board games, card games and do puzzles for entertainment more frequently instead of watching TV
    • Plan a trip abroad
    • Dry January and beyond
    • Organize and purge
    • Wake up each day with gratitude and hopefulness
    • Help others less fortunate than me by volunteering and giving back

    Happy New Year 2025 and may it bring great adventures and unexpected new experiences!

  • A Special Birthday Gift to Me!

    A Special Birthday Gift to Me!

    My birthday falls on December 28th, three days after Christmas and three days before New Years. Every year since I can remember, my birthday has either been extra fun and special or exceedingly forgettable and uneventful. I have learned to accept combination Christmas/Birthday/New Years gifts and wishes, wrapped in cheerful paper, re-gifted items unwanted from Christmas, a marked-down deal, or nothing at all. Time and maturity has made me accept this and embrace the holiday season with gratitude and grace.

    I have sewed a record number of garments and other items in 2024, something in the ballpark of 40-50 things (some started and unfinished), not to mention alterations and repairs, plus sewing samples and mock-ups for clients, teaching sewing students, and sewing samples towards earning a professional certificate. That’s a whole lot of sewing projects! Most were successful, some were dismal, all I can chalk up to experience and development.

    This year, I decided to make something special for myself for my birthday, using fabrics that I had been saving in my stash for just that, a special occasion. I wanted something that I would wear often and not just for one occasion, something practical yet fashionable, wearable yet unique, versatile yet not for everyday. So, I pulled out the 3 1/2 yards of a wonderful wool houndstooth I purchased several years back when I had a “real” job and disposable income, and dug up a fabulous red silk blend fabric I also had been stashing away for just the right project.

    I got to work doing my research (aka Pinterest) on what type of garment I wanted to make. I had earmarked the houndstooth wool for a coat, and have many coat sewing patterns also in my collection, so a lovely warm and stylish coat was the main focus. I then was watching a sewing-related YouTube video (as I do daily as I am sewing) that was all about sewing the trends. The YouTube channel, Crumpets, Tea & Sewing hosted by Tea Ray-Grover, has many wonderful tips, suggestions and reviews about sewing, patterns, fabrics and ideas for the home sewist, and was also hosting a sewing challenge collaboration over on Instagram with other YouTubers aptly tagged #sewthetrends, so I figured why not challenge myself to sew up a current trend and enter it into the challenge, just for extra funsies!

    I settled on this sewing pattern, Simplicity 9854. Its a relaxed fit, fully lined coat with a notched lapel collar and patch pockets with a flap:

    Simplicity 9854 coat sewing pattern

    This coat is not for everyone as it is oversized and boxy, and could overwhelm a petite figure or add bulk to a larger frame. I am pretty tall at 5’9″, so I feel I can pull off such a look, so I just went for it and cut out the pattern. Life is short, so why not!

    Now, making a coat is not for the faint of heart, for any skill level of sewist. It is not all that difficult to construct (for those with a sewing experience) as most of the pattern pieces are large, however the precision of certain parts are where the sewing can get you. On top of all the bulk and weight of the pattern pieces and keeping track of what side of the fabric is which, as well as those other fiddly details, is what makes it a challenging undertaking. I feel those fiddly bits are what making a coat that much more rewarding when it is done.

    So with about a week to make my coat before my birthday celebration of dinner out with close friends and family, I got to cutting out and making it.

    One of the first steps to constructing the coat is making the pockets and applying them to the front panels of the coat. This pattern features patch pockets with a flap for the top opening of the pocket. I decided to go the extra step and line the pockets as the pattern did not include this. I feel that the pockets would be more comfortable and less scratchy when using them and also have a bit more stability with wear and tear on the loosely-woven fabric if they had a lining. So, I cut out matching pattern to the pocket in a light-weight satin, pressed in the edges, and hand sewed the lining in the wrong side of the pockets.

    pocket lining hand sewed to the wrong side of the pocket
    The pockets with the lining hand sewn to the wrong side, ready to be sewn to the outside of the front panel of the coat

    After the pockets are made, the next step in the pattern instructions have you machine sew the pocket to the outside of the front of the coat using an edge stitch. I, however, decided to hand sew this part as well for best results. I know my machine, and with the thickness and bulk of this wool material, I knew machine stitching probably would come out really wonky, so the precision of hand sewing was the best option.

    It was then time to attach attach the lining to the facing of the coat. I chose this beautiful, bold red silk blend satin fabric for the lining which I think is my favorite part!

    Love it! The lining is one of my favorite parts of making custom clothing.
    Coat in progress, hanging out in my studio with some of my dress collection…

    So, after the under collar is attached to the main body of the coat, the sleeves are sewn together and then sewn to the armholes of the coat, then the upper collar is attached to the facing and the coat is sewn together at the outer edges of the coat. This step takes a while merely due to all the weight and bulk of the two layers of the coat going through the sewing machine and stitching should be slow and careful, not rushed. Inner seams of the coat need to still be accessed in order to anchor the two layers together at key points from the inside, as well as finish the hems of the sleeves and bottom of the coat with a neat finish. Ugh, a process, but we are SO close!

    So once the coat is fully sewn together, turned right side out, under stitched where possible, and given a really good press, you are ready to do the finishing touches.

    I happened to come across these cool square shaped buttons I had in my stash from Mood Fabrics (when I actually bought them is a mystery, but it must have been one of my trips either in Los Angeles or New York). Anyway, they were the perfect size and shape for the front of the coat.

    And with that, my new coat was complete! Easy Peasy! I love it, it is warm, stylish and fits in so well with my mostly black wardrobe.

    I’ll start with some inspiration photos of an oversized hounds tooth coat outfits I pinned on Pinterest:


    The pop of color inside makes me happy!

    Sorry about the terrible background in these photos. We are constantly in “renovation” mode and have a ways to go, so hopefully you can “unsee” those ugly parts and look at my pretty new Birthday coat!

    Thanks for stopping by!