My birthday falls on December 28th, three days after Christmas and three days before New Years. Every year since I can remember, my birthday has either been extra fun and special or exceedingly forgettable and uneventful. I have learned to accept combination Christmas/Birthday/New Years gifts and wishes, wrapped in cheerful paper, re-gifted items unwanted from Christmas, a marked-down deal, or nothing at all. Time and maturity has made me accept this and embrace the holiday season with gratitude and grace.
I have sewed a record number of garments and other items in 2024, something in the ballpark of 40-50 things (some started and unfinished), not to mention alterations and repairs, plus sewing samples and mock-ups for clients, teaching sewing students, and sewing samples towards earning a professional certificate. That’s a whole lot of sewing projects! Most were successful, some were dismal, all I can chalk up to experience and development.
This year, I decided to make something special for myself for my birthday, using fabrics that I had been saving in my stash for just that, a special occasion. I wanted something that I would wear often and not just for one occasion, something practical yet fashionable, wearable yet unique, versatile yet not for everyday. So, I pulled out the 3 1/2 yards of a wonderful wool houndstooth I purchased several years back when I had a “real” job and disposable income, and dug up a fabulous red silk blend fabric I also had been stashing away for just the right project.
I got to work doing my research (aka Pinterest) on what type of garment I wanted to make. I had earmarked the houndstooth wool for a coat, and have many coat sewing patterns also in my collection, so a lovely warm and stylish coat was the main focus. I then was watching a sewing-related YouTube video (as I do daily as I am sewing) that was all about sewing the trends. The YouTube channel, Crumpets, Tea & Sewing hosted by Tea Ray-Grover, has many wonderful tips, suggestions and reviews about sewing, patterns, fabrics and ideas for the home sewist, and was also hosting a sewing challenge collaboration over on Instagram with other YouTubers aptly tagged #sewthetrends, so I figured why not challenge myself to sew up a current trend and enter it into the challenge, just for extra funsies!
I settled on this sewing pattern, Simplicity 9854. Its a relaxed fit, fully lined coat with a notched lapel collar and patch pockets with a flap:
This coat is not for everyone as it is oversized and boxy, and could overwhelm a petite figure or add bulk to a larger frame. I am pretty tall at 5’9″, so I feel I can pull off such a look, so I just went for it and cut out the pattern. Life is short, so why not!
Now, making a coat is not for the faint of heart, for any skill level of sewist. It is not all that difficult to construct (for those with a sewing experience) as most of the pattern pieces are large, however the precision of certain parts are where the sewing can get you. On top of all the bulk and weight of the pattern pieces and keeping track of what side of the fabric is which, as well as those other fiddly details, is what makes it a challenging undertaking. I feel those fiddly bits are what making a coat that much more rewarding when it is done.
So with about a week to make my coat before my birthday celebration of dinner out with close friends and family, I got to cutting out and making it.
One of the first steps to constructing the coat is making the pockets and applying them to the front panels of the coat. This pattern features patch pockets with a flap for the top opening of the pocket. I decided to go the extra step and line the pockets as the pattern did not include this. I feel that the pockets would be more comfortable and less scratchy when using them and also have a bit more stability with wear and tear on the loosely-woven fabric if they had a lining. So, I cut out matching pattern to the pocket in a light-weight satin, pressed in the edges, and hand sewed the lining in the wrong side of the pockets.
The pockets with the lining hand sewn to the wrong side, ready to be sewn to the outside of the front panel of the coat
After the pockets are made, the next step in the pattern instructions have you machine sew the pocket to the outside of the front of the coat using an edge stitch. I, however, decided to hand sew this part as well for best results. I know my machine, and with the thickness and bulk of this wool material, I knew machine stitching probably would come out really wonky, so the precision of hand sewing was the best option.
Hand sewing sometimes is the best bet for precision and invisible stitchesThe pattern matched perfectly!
It was then time to attach attach the lining to the facing of the coat. I chose this beautiful, bold red silk blend satin fabric for the lining which I think is my favorite part!
Love it! The lining is one of my favorite parts of making custom clothing. Coat in progress, hanging out in my studio with some of my dress collection…
So, after the under collar is attached to the main body of the coat, the sleeves are sewn together and then sewn to the armholes of the coat, then the upper collar is attached to the facing and the coat is sewn together at the outer edges of the coat. This step takes a while merely due to all the weight and bulk of the two layers of the coat going through the sewing machine and stitching should be slow and careful, not rushed. Inner seams of the coat need to still be accessed in order to anchor the two layers together at key points from the inside, as well as finish the hems of the sleeves and bottom of the coat with a neat finish. Ugh, a process, but we are SO close!
So once the coat is fully sewn together, turned right side out, under stitched where possible, and given a really good press, you are ready to do the finishing touches.
I happened to come across these cool square shaped buttons I had in my stash from Mood Fabrics (when I actually bought them is a mystery, but it must have been one of my trips either in Los Angeles or New York). Anyway, they were the perfect size and shape for the front of the coat.
Settling in to hand sew on buttons
And with that, my new coat was complete! Easy Peasy! I love it, it is warm, stylish and fits in so well with my mostly black wardrobe.
I’ll start with some inspiration photos of an oversized hounds tooth coat outfits I pinned on Pinterest:
It looks great with a black top and skinny “leather” pantsAnother outfit idea from PinterestThe pop of color inside makes me happy!
Sorry about the terrible background in these photos. We are constantly in “renovation” mode and have a ways to go, so hopefully you can “unsee” those ugly parts and look at my pretty new Birthday coat!
I gasped out loud when I was contacted through my Yelp profile: a mother of a bride was asking if I could create a kimono-style, robe like top for her daughter who was getting married. She sent over some inspiration photos and asked how much I would charge to make a similar garment:
This made my heart skip a beat!I also love this gown!
Wow, I thought, I love that idea of a fancy kimono style top to wear for the wedding! I love kimonos and robes and have made many of them over the years, but never a bridal one such as this.
The client bride Brittney already had purchased the fabric she wanted the robe made out of: a mesh tulle type of fabric with mushrooms of various sizes embroidered to the fabric and embellished with little sparkly sequins. So pretty!
The fabric!
She also wanted fringe trim added all around the edges of the kimono for more drama and movement:
I ordered 8 yards of this trim, first getting a swatch to check the color
Brittney is quite the creative type of lady as you might have already guessed, and was doing as much DIY for her wedding as possible. She made the invitations, the designed the floral arrangements and dyed the table cloths. She also wanted to use the fringe yardage she bought and try to dye it to match the fabric of the kimono. Meanwhile I ordered some swatches of fringe trim from Etsy and found this perfect match, which we ending up going for.
I had a pattern in mind for the kimono, Simplicity 1108, one that I had made before and could change up a bit to suit her needs:
Using view C of the pattern, I cut it a little shorter and made the sleeve more of a triangular shape instead of a rectangle. I didn’t even bother making a mockup of it as it was so loose fitting and easy to change up a bit to fit as needed.
She and her mom came over several times for planning and fittings which was really fun! We had a great time playing with the ideas for the look, and talking about the wedding plans.
At a fitting with the original fringe. Brittney deciding how long she’d like the sleeve to be, before the fringe was added.
She had a little slip dress to wear under the kimono that she got for a very good price, and decided to purchase another dress to use for additional fabric to make a matching sash to cinch in the waist. So, I made her two belts, one skinny and one wide, so she could choose what felt better for the look.
The kimono was coming along so well and we all were excited for the end result! I loosely sewed (basting stitch) the fringe trim by hand to the outside edges of the kimono. That took forever! Once the length and shape of the edges of the top were confirmed by Brittney, then I cut away the excess fabric and more permanently sewed the fringe on my sewing machine. That also took forever to do as I had to sew very carefully the trim to the edge so as to catch the slippery top edge of the fringe to the narrow hem opening of the sheer mesh kimono fabric, all without catching any fringe edge in the stitches or get caught in my sewing machine. Tedious work to say the least!
The fringe all sewed on to the edges of the front and sleeve of the kimono.
Brittney was getting really excited about wearing it for her wedding! I really loved how it was coming along as well, and decided that I wanted to make another version of the same concept for my own collection. I purchased enough yardage of the mushroom fabric and fringe trim, as well as fabric to make the under dress, to later make a version of the outfit for my upcoming fashion show and to display as an example of my work.
Looking so good!
Come the big day, Brittney was simply radiant in her bridal ensemble! It was perfect for her style, and a unique garment that could be worn again and again for other occasions. I am so happy they came to me for her special custom look for her wedding! It really brings me joy to make someone’s special occasion all that more beautiful!
Mom helping Bride to get ready. How fabulous does she look!What a cool couple!Love!
Another happy day and successful creation! I love my job….
I am no business expert, but I have learned a thing or two about running a small business since I went full time as a entrepreneur nearly two years ago. I have learned that it takes long hours, major sacrifices, dedication, hard work and finding ways to get things done faster, better and more efficiently all while trying to spend less money and earn more.
That’s me: Boss Babe Stephanie showing off some of my work!
I am very proud of my business and what I do. I am a designer seamstress and dressmaker, creating custom garments for ladies focused on special occasion, bridal and tailored apparel and offer bridal alterations. I have managed to grow a client base, hone in on couture and quality sewing techniques, get the word out on what I do, decline work that doesn’t fall into my specialties or timeline (or that I simply don’t want to do), open a little boutique space outside of my home, price my products and services accordingly, earn more money year over year, and become better and more experienced with each job that I take in.
I have paid off all of my debt, paid off my car in full, and have a little chunk of savings in the bank that I would like to invest back into in my business.
I need a plan!
It’s now up to me to work on my business plan and focus in on how to grow my custom sewing & dressmaking business. I need to sit down and figure out the smartest means where I should invest my money, and that starts with a plan. I have read several books and articles on running and growing a small business, now I need to take what I have learned and apply it to my situation.
A quick shot of me and a couple of dresses I made back in 2012
Although I can’t do all of my ideas with the budget that I have, here are some of the specific ones that I have thought about that I can invest in to make my business run smoother, more efficiently, and make a profit:
*new sewing equipment, namely an industrial sewing machine
*take on an intern or part-time contract employee
*hire a professional accountant to handle business finances
*physically (and mentally) declutter & organize
*automate scheduling
*improve website
*invest in and create sellable inventory-manufacture a small collection
*invest in marketing and advertising
*hire a professional photographer
*market and target customer research
*research and development
*foster newness and excitement
*continued education
*travel
*learn from those who are more skilled and experienced than I am
*hold events to attract new clients, thank existing and previous clients
*network
Me and my models walk the runway in my Love, Stephanie designs 2016
Do you have any good advice for growing a business, taking it to the next level with smart investments? Has something worked for you, or held you back from success? I’d love to learn more about it and try to figure out the best ways to take my business to the next level.
Me finishing up gown I made in 2023 for a special lady Michel. She said to me recently “I don’t think I’ve ever felt that gorgeous in a piece of clothing”. Words to live by!
I know I need help and can’t do alone. I also know that there are success stories and big dreams can come true, it just takes hard work, smart decisions and perseverance. And a plan.
This Boss Babe is ready for business!
Meanwhile, I’ll keep on plugging away at my existing client needs, holding up my end of the agreement, while trying to create newness and examples of my potential and sharing with my audience. Soon I will be posting about some lovely projects that I have been working on, but have to hold back the excitement until the client’s special occasion occurs so not to spoil the surprise.
Photo shoot dream project come true of a custom gown I made for lovely Payton. More please!
Life is short, time is limited, and I want to make a difference and impact in this world and in the lives of others. Even just a small part, a little influence, make someone smile and feel beautiful in what they are wearing.
That’s all I want out of this life, at least business-wise. I feel strongly that what you wear says a million words and evokes a thousand emotions. So why not that be me to make that a reality!
Nicole is a special client who heard about me through word of mouth (one of the best ways to gain new business in my opinion!). She reached out to me, sending me a message on Instagram, looking to have a coat custom made for her. She knows how to sew, which is so incredibly flattering that she asked me to do this project, however did not want to take on this big of a project for herself and felt it best to leave it to an expert.
She wanted a dressy coat to wear this winter as for her job she appears in court at times and attends executive meetings often and wanted a really nice coat to wear that makes a statement and can make the outfit, so to speak.
I was so excited that she asked me to take on the task! I got to work right away finding out what her desires were, finding inspirational photos and images, searching through patterns, and creating a PowerPoint presentation much like a mood board to present to her over an online zoom meeting.
Girl Boss prepped and ready for the Design Meeting on Zoom
I like to do these presentations for clients to show them my thought process and what I am able to achieve for them. I include images, features and benefits of patterns I have chosen, fabrics, key dates, deadlines and a working timeline, and my estimated price, all in one presentation. We go over the slides, discuss the options and make decisions together. Then I take that information and get to work. It works out great for me as I can organize my thoughts and demonstrate what I can do for them, and my clients love it and feel that I take them seriously and really care about making their project special and personal.
After going through her inspirations, patterns and examples of coats that I have made, Nicole decided on this dressy coat pattern that came out in Fall 2021 from Butterick Patterns:
Butterick 6868 coat pattern
I love this pattern! It features lovely fit and flare princess seams in the front and back of the coat, creating a vintage-inspired swingy look. The shawl collar, angled sleeve cuffs, welt pocket flaps and covered buttons are made in a contrast fabric for an elegant touch.
The line art for Butterick 6868 View A
This style of coat is reminiscent of the beautiful coat and matching dress that Jill Biden wore for the Presidential Inauguration. Her elegant outfit was designed by Gabriella Hearst and is now featured at the Smithsonian along with her other outfits worn on that day:
Jill Biden wears a dressy coat and matching dress designed by Gabriella Hearst on Inauguration Day January 2021
After taking Nicole’s measurements, purchasing the pattern and cutting out the pattern pieces, I made up a muslin mock up of the pattern and had Nicole come and try it on. She wanted the neckline raised a few inches, so this was nice to get and idea of how that would look:
Although it sort of looks like a lab coat, the pattern fits pretty well just out of the envelope! The princess seams really create a lovely shape over her figure
Nicole attended the Sewing and Quilting Expo in Puyallup, WA and purchased a beautiful cherry red wool yardage for her coat. She brought me the whole bolt, and we also went fabric shopping together, choosing the lining and contrast trim fabric for the design. She chose a lovely animal printed faux fur for the contrast trim and a caramel brown rayon for the lining. So elegant!
Color matching the thread to the coat material
After the fitting of the muslin mock-up and making a few tweaks to the pattern, I cut out and sewed up the main shell of the coat for her to try on for fit and to see the coat partially made:
The coat partially made, ready for a quick fitting
Once Nicole was good with the progress, I set up my sewing machine and got to work finishing the coat. Hours were spent cutting the lining, constructing the collar, cuffs and pocket welts out of the faux fur (that stuff makes a huge mess and gets everywhere!) and making the cute covered buttons:
The fur covered buttons look like little fuzzy critters!
I installed the welt pockets which I think were the most difficult part of the coat. They had to be at the same exact spot on the coat, and the same exact size and shape to look right. Cutting into the fabric right on the outside of the panel of the coat was nerve wracking to say the least! There is NO room for error and you can’t “un cut” it to correct any mistakes.
The fur trim looks SO good, but is definitely a pain to work with
The fabric is heavy and thick, leaving bulky seams to deal with and the need to hand sew in many spots to have the best results.
Sewing on the covered buttons was challenging!
My favorite part of making custom clothing for clients are the special touches I like to add to the project. For Nicole, I added a faux leather piping trim to the inside of the coat between the facing and the lining. This adds no purpose to the construction, just a little finishing touch and pop of color and texture to the inside of the coat:
Black piping added to the inside of the coat sandwiched between the lining and the facingSewing the lining hem by hand took about an hour, but so worth it!
Since I wanted to add another personal touch to the coat and I have the right machinery and plenty of thread, I decided to add a fancy embroidered monogram to the inside lining at the back of the coat, a secret little feature that she will see every time she slips on this beauty:
An embroidered monogram inside the coat for that special touch
After months of work, hours spent sewing by machine and by hand, and physically managing this big project, it turned out beautifully and I am proud as well as excited to hand it off for her to wear and enjoy!
Her lovely coat is complete!The shape is so elegant, timeless and tailoredShe’s ready for her entrance!
Like a beautiful breath of fresh air, Peyton came to my studio via word of mouth and brightened up my life! She is a lovely, fun & fresh young lady with long dark hair and a beautiful warm smile.
She had with her two dresses: one from her grandmother’s wedding from the 1940’s, and one that belonged to her great-grandmother for her wedding dating back to the 1920’s! There also were a couple of bridal accessories in the garment bag including sheer gloves and a detachable collar with lace edging and covered buttons. She wanted to use the dresses in some way to create a dress for her own wedding. She had been given permission from her family to use the dresses in any way that she wanted, but with the condition that she incorporate parts of the dresses into her own wedding dress.
She sent me some ideas of what she wanted for her dress: Something simple for the top, not fussy, and a tea-length skirt. Just pretty, romantic and comfortable.
The lace from the bodice of her grandmother’s dress was unusable as it was discolored and sadly disintegrating from age. The skirt, however, was in good condition and made of a nice quality silk chiffon and lined in a lightweight silk material.
She trusted me with her heirloom dresses and I got to work deconstructing her grandmother’s dress. We decided that great-grandmother’s dress was far too discolored and not a good shade of white to use, so we left that one in-tact.
I ever so carefully removed the vintage stitches, many of them hand-sewn, separating the bodice from the skirt. Once the skirt was off, I overlocked the very top edge of the skirt to give it stability and keep it together for what was coming next for it. A bath!
I gently laundered the detached skirt in my clean bathtub in warm water with Woolite and a sprinkle of Oxyclean, gently swishing it in the suds and rinsing it out with warm water. The bath water was pretty dingy after all of these decades! After pressing out the dampness in a clean white towel, I then laid out the skirt to air dry on my drying rack.
Once the skirt was completely dry, I hung it on a skirt hanger and carefully steamed it out with my handy dandy steamer machine. I love that thing! The skirt came out like a dream! It was soft, flowy, fresh and pretty. Best of all, the wrinkles, dingy hue and “old lady” smell magically disappeared! Horray!
Meanwhile, Peyton had homework to do involving purchasing a new lace material that she wanted for her custom-made bodice to be attached to grandma’s skirt. She found a lovely floral lace fabric and some lining that she delivered to me to be sewn up into a fitted bodice that I had already made a muslin mock up to her liking.
Fitting time! This is always an exciting, and totally nerve-wracking, stage in the dressmaking process. The bodice is mocked up in muslin and pinned to the skirt. So far so good!
After the fitting and approval of the work so far, I got straight into cutting out the bodice in lace and began to construct it.
An attempt at making a hidden seam in the lace.Bra cups sewn into the interior of the bodice
Fast forward to the dress being close to finished, I added the final touches with a new zipper, buttons from grandma’s gloves and a new little ribbon belt. I the share photos with the bride and schedule the last fittings and deadline.
The interior of the dress including a ribbon stay, hanging loops and an old version of my Love, Stephanie label.I love to present my custom-made garments to clients in a garment bag embroidered with a monogrammed initial.
I was just so touched and honored that Peyton came to me to create this special and sentimental wedding dress for her. I loved working with her, her family and loved ones. She is a delightful and beautiful person and I am touched to have been a part of her wedding!
I dream of creating beautiful and elegant evening gowns, but rarely find an occasion for them, so the visions just sit in my head and sometimes make it to a sketch, but rarely go further than that.
I dream of making beautiful bridal gowns, ones that are interesting and unique, perhaps made in colors or prints other than the traditional white. Bringing in texture, color, design details that bring excitement, joy and romance to the occasion.
One occasion that came to mind that I could create a gorgeous dress for an actual wearer was senior prom in May 2023 for my friend’s daughter Payton! I’ve known Payton since she was about 9 or 10, meeting her when my good friend Kristin was dating Payton’s dad Scott. Kristin and Scott got married at a beautiful destination wedding in Tulum, Mexico which I attended, and had the honor of making little fascinators for both Kristin and Payton to wear at the wedding! So fun!
A feather and rhinestone fascinator I made for young Payton.
The feather and tulle fascinator I made for Kristin
Kiss the bride and jump for joy!
Fast forward 8 years, Payton has grown into a lovely young lady, quiet, intelligent and thoughtful, tall and slim, and just beautiful! She was perfect for my vision, and could use a new dress for her upcoming prom. I had a muse that was willing to put up with the process for months, come to my house for fittings, and model my creation to help spread the word. A perfect trade!
Pinterest has been a great resource to find inspiration and store ideas. I visit the website a few times a week to recall what I have saved and see what might be new for ideas, mostly for sewing, but also for cooking, organizing, exercise and more. I have boards for these topics, and my sewing wish lists are broken down by type of garment. I also create and share boards with my dressmaking clients to keep together what direction we are going for the project together for reference.
This recent dressmaking project has been in the works for months. I created a Pinterest board to house my ideas and visions of the outcome for an embroidered mesh gown for Payton who was willing to be my model and muse for this dress. The entire goal was to make it in time for her to wear to her senior prom in May with the intention of showcasing my work and doing some free marketing for my dressmaking business, Love, Stephanie.
Here are some of my ideas for this gown that I have pinned on Pinterest :
I love the all over 3-D floral effect of this gown.
I really like the embroidery on this gown.
The floral mesh and shape of this gown is gorgeous.
I began looking for fabrics that would aid in this vision. Knowing that this embroidered mesh look is very much in fashion nowadays, I started searching at my local fabric stores, but didn’t find anything that was of decent quality or not extremely expensive. I searched online and found this embroidered floral appliqué mesh fabric in two color ways on the app AliExpress for $14.37 a yard and it was perfect!
I liked them both so much and ordered 7 yards of each. I figured I could give Payton a choice of which color she liked best, plus use the one she didn’t choose for another dress and create a mini collection using the same fabric in two ways:
The floral on a white meshThe same floral on black mesh
As soon as it arrived all the way from China, I contacted Payton and her step mom, my good friend Kristin, to show them the fabric, let her choose her favorite and start looking for a lining.
The fabric looks amazing and attention grabbing just draped on my dress form over some white muslin!
We went off to my local favorite fabric store and found a nice lining material to go under the sheer fabric. We looked for a color that would match her skin tone and had a lot of fun while we shopped.
Approved! We found a perfect skin tone match!Daisy approves!
With the fabric choices checked off the list, I then got to work making a mock up of the dress in muslin. I should of course mention what pattern I chose to use. I had this McCalls M7927 pattern designed by David Tutera in my pattern stash of special occasion dress that I had been wanting to make.
McCalls 7927 by David TuteraMcCalls 7927 back view.
The line drawings of the pattern shows the simple shape of the dress and of course, the train which is amazing!
I chose this pattern for the lovely low V neckline, the fitted skirt with the slit and the train. I have been wanting to design more bridal gowns and thought this pattern would be good practice for construction and working with overlays and layers of fabric.
As I didn’t want an exact match to the pattern, I made a few little changes to the design. I raised the front V so that it didn’t go all the way down to the navel, and I chose not to have the little panel inset that was an option on the bodice, although considered it as maybe a sheer mesh insert there and tabled the idea. I also lowered the back neckline to a low V for more drama from the backside.
Payton came back to my studio for her muslin fitting which was quite successful. She slipped into the gown easily and it looked great on her, just in muslin! I only needed to make a few tweaks to the fit of the bodice, and lengthen the skirt to accommodate the shoes she’d probably be wearing with the gown.
Payton at her muslin fittingI needed to adjust the neckline a bit, and raise it for a little modestyThe low back and the train was going to be SO pretty!Little Sis Daisy approves again!Just the muslin mockup, sewn up and placed on my dress form, looks beautiful!
OK with the fitting out of the way, it was time to get started cutting out this GIANT dress!
Thank goodness I have the floor space to lay out and cut this monster!
Cutting out the HUGE skirt pieces of this dress was quite the challenge. I had to be strategic about it, and part of the back panel of the skirt didn’t quite fit on to the part of the fabric with the embroidery, so I had to cut it in the plain mesh edge and later overlay scraps of the embroidered parts on by hand. More on that later.
Cutting the bodice was a breeze as the pattern pieces are quite narrow and easily fit on to the fabric. I was able to be more strategic with the floral placement on the bodice and choose more of the red flowers near to her face as those were her favorite colors in the fabric.
Once I cut out the pattern pieces in the mesh, I had to cut the same pattern pieces in the underlining that went directly under the mesh, and also the lining. Lots of cutting which was not fun, back breaking actually, but it had to be done.
The bodice has a dart in it, which creates shape over a curved area, but also folds in the floral design when sewn. So to disguise the fold of the flower once I sewed the dart, I “patched” over the area by hand sewing a flower cut from a scrap of the fabric over the darts.
Hand sewing a flower patch over a dart
The next step was to underline the mesh pattern pieces with the flesh colored underling fabric, which as a crepe knit material with a slight stretch to it. Each piece was layered and basted (sewn with long stitches) together by hand to underline the entire dress. A long and tedious process for sure, but necessary to give structure and opacity to the delicate mesh.
You can see the mesh and underlining basted together in this image
After the pattern was fully underlined and the bodice and skirt were sewn together, I had another fitting with Payton to make sure all was good before adding the lining and installing the zipper.
At the final fitting, deciding on the bustle placement.
As I mentioned earlier, some of the mesh couldn’t quite fit on the pattern during the cut out process, so I had to go back and patch over some areas by hand to make it look correct. It’s hard to see in this photo, but I essentially hand sewed an area of mesh with flowers to the blank areas, carefully going around the motifs and cutting away the doubled up layered areas. This took a while, but was necessary to not have a big bald spot on the back of the dress.
You can really see the “bald” area on the upper right side of the back of the skirt in this photo It’s not easy to see what I am doing here, but that’s the point!
Once the fitting happened, it was time to sew together the lining and install it into the dress. I knew that this dress was going to be heavy to wear and drag on the ground, so I made sure to add hanging loops to the interior of the lining and a bustle to the long train.
I make most of my regular income altering bridal and special occasion gowns and dresses, so I get to see the insides of these dresses and how they are built to be pretty on the outside and functional on the inside. Most long dresses have some sort of hanging straps sewn to the inside of them to hang them up and prevent falling off the hanger and stretching out the shoulders. I love incorporating these little details on the interior of dresses that I make as I feel it adds that little touch of thoughtfulness and luxury to the dress.
For Payton’s gown, I chose a wide satin ribbon to make the hanging loops for the bodice and a narrow satin ribbon for the wrist and hanging loop for the train. Both ribbons are not seen from the outside, but I chose a nude color that matched the lining, just to be more inconspicuous.
I sewed these ribbons in, at a measured length for the area in particular, into the seams of the lining as I was sewing it together. I then also tacked the lining to the inside of the dress at the seams so that they wouldn’t pull apart and the whole dress would act as one in these areas. The same holds true for the one-point over bustle I made using little hooks and eyes, reinforced with a button underneath, as I often do for a bridal gown alteration.
The dress hanging, using the interior loops for supportYou can see the interior loop of the train doing it’s job!And the pretty satin lining, also doing it’s job!Sewing in the bustle by hand
Not shown are little foam bra cups sewn in between the lining and the interior of the dress. She isn’t busty, but needed some cup support for modesty and all as there is NO way she could wear a bra with this dress! I considered also adding boning in the bodice, but nixed that idea as she really didn’t need it.
With the dress finally done and prom rapidly approaching, I was able to recruit my amazing friends to help me plan and execute a photo shoot featuring Payton in the gown. My husband and I own a second home in Sunriver, Oregon, a beautiful and popular resort area out in Central Oregon, that we rent out on Airbnb, but also love to stay there whenever we can. It’s a great home, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and sleeps 8 guests. We were able to have Payton, her dad, stepmom, little sister, as well as my friends Mark and Julie all come and stay with us at the house and participate with the photo shoot. Mark is the photographer, his wife (and my good friend) Julie is his assistant, and of course, Payton as the model.
I created a mood board to share my ideas with Payton and my friend Mark who would be taking the photos on how I wanted the photos to look, a good location, and some images of the feeling I wanted to portray in the dress.
My crafty mood board projectFort Rock Park: A great location out in the high desert of Central Oregon, a perfect backdrop for the photos
I packed up the dress and all of the sewing supplies I might need, and we headed out to Sunriver. We got there a couple of days before the others arrived which gave me time to do some last minute finished on the gown and get it all ready for the shoot.
The big day came and we were all ready to make the hour long drive in two SUV’s from Sunriver to the location at Fort Rock. It was a gorgeous warm day which was perfect for being outside before and during the shoot.
Abby applies makeup to Payton out on the deck on this gorgeous day
Julie’s nieces Abby and Lauren were able to join us the day of the shoot to help with makeup and styling and just tag along for fun. I had met Abby before and she was wonderful to be a model for some of my dresses last year, also photos shot by her uncle Mark. It was great to have them as they both really helped out, plus are around Payton’s age (a little older) and helped her feel more comfortable and relaxed, and gave great tips on makeup and poses to do during the shoot.
We arrived at the location and were in awe of the beautiful spot with the big lava mountain stuck out in the middle of nowhere. The sky was amazing and looked almost like a fake backdrop! We got started right away with Mark taking photos, Julie helping with the equipment, the girls giving good posing direction, and me fluffing the dress whenever necessary.
The team in action!Lauren giving Payton sexy gesture direction What a great team effort!
We got some great shots in a few areas around the park, some standing in the field, some on the dirt path that went around the enormous rock, some sitting on a rock, and then some at the little abandoned town that was down the street a bit from the rock. Mark really captured it all beautifully and Payton was spectacular in the gown!
I am just overjoyed with how it all came out in the end! The gown is gorgeous, Payton looks amazing, and Mark really captured my vision. I can’t thank them all enough for their contribution to this project, it was really special and dear to my heart!
The photos are just amazing and I believe will help me take my dressmaking business to the next level.
This journey began with a bright eyed beauty, curious to know more about what I might be able to create for her and what the process of creating a custom dress looked like. Laura contacted me, looking for a custom dress to wear to her sister’s wedding event. She wanted a dress with a 1930’s feel, one that had fabric interest with unique design details.
She had seen a dress in a movie that she loved and wanted to get a similar look. She sent me photos of screen shots from the movie, plus some inspiration shared on Pinterest
She loved the rich tones of the fabric combination, and the soft ruffled neckline of this dressShe also loves the straps of this dress
I got to work and found a pattern that was designed in the 1930’s and had the basic shape of the dress style she liked including the sweetheart neckline, the low back and the long, softly shaped skirt
I found this pattern and ordered it from Etsy
We hit the fabric store shortly after I received the pattern, and I also made a mock up of the dress for her to try on
It was my first time making a ruffle like this at the neckline of a dress. Although we like it, we decided it was a bit too much for her.The fit of the dress was great, but here we are playing with different strap placement and neckline shape
Back to the drawing board!
As the construction of the dress progressed, I kept Laura posted with details of what I was doing and got her input on any options she had.
She loves the combination of the drapey lavender chiffon with the deep plus satin. I also thought the colors were beautiful together, just the placement was not as compelling as it could be.
I brought up an idea of draping over the entire top of the dress, allowing both fabrics to have their moment. I presented her with this idea of draping and criss crossing the chiffon over the bodice.
She really like that idea, approved it, so I got going on making it happen!
I finished constructing the dress underneath by adding boning and bra cups to the lining of the dress.
The lining turned out beautifully and was a pleasure to look at as she slipped into the dress. That kind of detail makes me happy, and hopefully also the case for the wearer!
The bodice and skirt lining ready to be installed into the dress!Plenty of pining and hand sewing happening on my trusty dressformThe bodice front, sides, and eventual side drape piece, all pleated and basted, ready to be sewn together, then sewn over the main dress bodice.
So after quite a bit of trial and error, as this was my first time creating such a dress with the draping detail, I finally finished the gown!
Here are some photos of the versions I sent over to her before finishing up on her final version:
She looks so pretty and elegant, even unfinished!The drape happening in the back would also look so gorgeous! I might need to make this dress again just for fun!
And the finale!
The final gown!
Meanwhile, Portland was hit with a big snowstorm that essentially shut down the city and trapped many people at home. Well, that didn’t stop me! My sweet husband offered to drive me and the finished gown over to Laura’s house and deliver it in person in his SUV that is great in the snow. What a nice guy!
Laura was radiant in her dress as she tried it on in her bedroom! I brought along a small sewing kit and supplies to do any last minute fixes as needed.
Well, it turned out that the dress needed a little more than just a few stitches to make it perfect. So, unfortunately I had to take the dress back home and make some fitting changes to the bodice and straps to make it just right. No problem! OK, one major problem: the dress was meant for her to take along to wear at her sister’s wedding event in California the next day and it wasn’t ready. UGH!!! I was hoping to be able to make the changes that same day and drive the dress back over so she could pack it for her trip. I ran out of time and wasn’t able to make it happen. You have no idea how SO disappointing this was for me, not to mention for her as well. So she left early the next morning for California, all without the dress we worked so hard to make in time for the event. GRR, I was SO upset with myself!
Well, now the dress is complete and altered and ready to go for the next occasion she may have to wear it. All in all, Laura was such a wonderful client to work with and I hope that she’s willing to work with me again on another gorgeous creation, and possibly even teach her some sewing lessons so that she can learn to make her own beautiful and unique clothes!
Lesson learned: time management is KEY to making deadlines and leaving room for error.
The gown turned out so elegant and eye catching! Every angle of the dress has interestWe love the low back! And the drape! So pretty and elegant!
Thank you so much Laura for choosing me to create such a beautiful gown for you! I enjoyed every moment of the process, mishaps and all. Enjoy wearing your dress and may you glow and shine in it as you do so naturally! Love, Stephanie
I’ve known Michel for a few years now. She has come to me on several occasions to alter and do minor repairs on her clothing. She loves fashion and is always intrigued with what projects I am working on, especially the custom dressmaking ones. She would say to me that someday, she’d love to have me make something custom for her. Well, that day came along when she was asked by her best friend to be the Maid of Honor in her wedding, and she had the choice of what to wear in the wedding as long as it was formal, elegant and black.
As soon as Michel was asked, she reached out to me to see if I was available to create a gown for her. Of course I was! Michel is such a wonderful person and a repeat client of mine, so I was honored to create something special for her.
We had our first meeting at my house on a warm sunny afternoon, over a light lunch and refreshments, sitting out on my back deck. We talked about what style she likes, what parts of her body she’d like to highlight and what she’d rather not. We talked about color (black), and fabric options, the timing of the wedding, and I showed her some images I put together on Pinterest.
A black lace gown I pinned on Pinterest
She loved the idea of a fit & flare dress, or a mermaid style that is fitted from the bodice to the upper leg, then flares out at below the knee. She wanted to highlight her slim waist and also wanted sleeves as the wedding was scheduled for the end of January, so she might get cold. It was great as we worked together to decide on a suitable style as she had an idea of what she wanted, but also put a lot of trust in me and my experience in the fashion industry, dabbling in image consulting.
I found a couple of sewing patterns to start with, and eventually decided on this one: McCalls 6838.
McCalls 6838 sewing pattern
The pattern cover is really not all that elegant, but if you look past that and look at the illustrations and line drawings, the pattern becomes much more appealing. To me, at least!
Line drawings of McCalls 6838 sewing pattern
In my sewing experience so far, I like to take an existing pattern that is already graded and figured out, and make it extra by adding design details, using nice quality fabrics, linings, embellishments, and leveled-up sewing and dressmaking techniques to really make the design special and valuable.
As a side note, I have been working solely for myself since June of 2022, running my design, dressmaking and bridal alterations business Love, Stephanie. Since then, I have leveled up my sewing and strive to create high quality garments with special details including fit, better fabrics, quality construction and special personal touches. Doing so, I have also revised my price list and raised my prices, no longer giving friends and family discounts or doing free-bee trades just because I feel like I am charging too much or still in training. Now, I charge accordingly for my work, my experience, my dedication to my clients, and my attention to detail. Saying that, this gown took a lot of time and effort to create, and I priced it at $1,400 not including fabric. Just in case you were wondering!
Back to the dress!
We had our first fitting using the pattern tissue paper to just get an idea of fit for the main parts of the pattern. Michel has a great figure, virtually zero body fat, so the pattern essentially fit right out of the envelope with very little adjustments needed. Must be nice, huh!
Tissue fitting!
From there, we went fabric shopping together and Michel chose and purchased a lovely black lace with a little floral motif all over, and a scalloped edge which I used later for the neck and sleeve edges of the shrug.
The pattern and the lace! Please excuse the cluttered background of my studio!
I then moved on to making a muslin mock-up of the dress to further ensure the fit and style are what she likes before I cut into her fashion fabric. I only had to make a few more fitting tweaks at the muslin stage, taking notes along the way to keep track of what I needed to do as I made progress.
The muslin!In her mock-up, Michel just needs a few tweaks to the fit, and to decide what lining she preferred (nude lining won!)
For each of my custom sewing clients, I keep a dossier type folder with my notes, sketches, pattern pieces, inspiration images, fabric swatches, receipts, and have this handy as I’m working on the project to keep it all together and organized. I keep and store each client’s dossier after the project is complete for my own records as well, and as a reminder as to how far I’ve come along which is nice 🙂
Michel’s dossier cover image, with my sketching & scribbles, stored in a pocket folder, with all my notes kept together
With the muslin fitting stage completed, it was now time to start cutting into the fabric and constructing the dress.
I cut out all of the lace pieces of the dress, including the bodice, the skirt, and the lower skirt flounce. I also cut the exact same pattern pieces out of a light weight lining material in a flesh tone to underline the lace and give it structure and opacity. Here I have my pattern pieces all cut out, stacked and pinned with the lace and underlining, ready to be hand basted together and later treated as one layer to be sewn together.
The bodice pieces cut out in lace with underlining pinned and ready to be basted together by handThe upper skirt pieces marked and ready to be basted together by handOne half of the lower skirt portion ready for basting the layers together.
Once the layers were basted together, I could move on to sewing the pattern pieces together and start forming the dress.
The bodice sewn together The bodice and upper skirt sewn together. It looks great just like this!
To give the lower circle skirt more body, bounce and twirl appeal, I added a layer of tulle between the lace and the lining, gathering it as I sewed it to the upper seam edge before attaching it to the lower skirt. I thought this was a great idea as I’ve seen this kind of layer in big ball gown type skirts, knew it would be easy to do and create a great effect.
Lots of pins to keep this tulle in check!It looks like a messy nest, so one pin at a time controls the tulle before and during machine stitching
This is the stage where I wanted to start adding the beading. I planned it at this stage of the construction process as I wanted the stitching and threads of the beading to be hidden between the outer layer (the lace and underlining) and the lining. I bought some lovely little black glass seed beads and black sequins and created a little stack of them and sewed 2-3 stacks to the large flower motif in the center. It wasn’t all that noticeable on the dress, especially in a photo, but in person, it gives the dress a tiny little shimmer and adds a slight texture to the lace.
Hand sewing the seed beads and sequins, one by one, to the laceI created tiny little stacks of seed beads and sequins to the center of the large flower motifs all over the dress and flounce
As I sewed the beads and sequins to the dress, I kept track of my time using the timer on my iPhone and jotting it down as I went. Adding it all up, it took me about 9 hours to bead the dress. If I had the time, I would have beaded more of the dress, but this wasn’t feasible with just my two hands and lack of time!
As the dress progressed, I had a couple of more fittings with Michel, this time in the fabric, before I added the lining, just to check fit again and make sure everything was perfect before the lining installation
Michel pinned into her dress, the straps and belt also just pinned, and deciding on the finished hem length.Pinned into the dress, with the unfinished shrug (again, please excuse the mess!)
She also wanted a sleeve option for the dress, so I made a little matching shrug for her using Butterick 4731 for the pattern.
Butterick 4731 for the shrug only (although I also like the gown in this pattern)I used the sleeves of view A and the front and back of view B to make the shrugI cut out the shrug in the same layers as the dress, also beading the outer lace layer before adding the lining
I used the pretty scalloped border of the lace material to create a trim to go around the edges of the shrug at the neckline, around the back, and the sleeve hem.
Hand stitching the lace edge trim to the finished shrug
I wanted to be sure to have a well made garment that would last a long time, and be extra special to slip on and wear comfortably. I added two hanging loops into the side seams of the lining using a narrow satin ribbon, so that when the gown was hanging, not all of the weight of the dress was on the straps and it was supported with the loops. These loops would then just fall down into the dress when worn and are not seen. I also added a little waist stay right at the waistline of the dress using a wider ribbon and a hook and bar. This feature helps to support the weight of the dress on the inside. I see both of these interior details in some of the wedding gowns that I have altered, so I like to adapt them into my dresses for a high end, secret quality detail!
The hanging loops do their job to help support the dress while hangingThe waist stay added as her exact waist measurement inside the dress for support
Jumping ahead, as the wedding date was rapidly approaching, the dress and shrug were turning out so well, and I couldn’t wait to get Michel in it and delivered before the big day.
Before delivering it though, I wanted to add a little special and personal touch to the garment bag that I usually include with the dresses that I make for my clients. This time, I used my embroidery machine and made a monogram for her on the outside of the garment bag.
The purchased garment bag with the personal monogram
Finishing up the dress and delivering the finished product always feels great! She’s excited, I’m excited and everyone can’t wait to see her dazzling in her new custom made gown!
Checking and double checking the hem is even and balanced
The time finally came that I was 100% finished with the dress and I was ready to deliver it to Michel. It kind of feels like I am handing off a little part of me whenever it’s time to deliver the dress, so I try to take the time to get some good photos of the finished product before she’s gone off to her rightful owner!
She’s done! Isn’t she lovely!With the matching shrug
All dolled up and in her gown, Michel is absolutely STUNNING! She’s a natural beauty and does not need makeup of any kind, but boy, when she dresses up and gets all dolled up, WOW! Breathtakingly beautiful!
Stunning!Simply gorgeous!Michel and her best friend, the lovely bride Megan!
Another dream dress come true!! Onwards and Upwards!
One of my very favorite people on this planet is my beautiful friend Julie. She is a Goddess in my eyes. She has the biggest heart, is always cheerful and gives all of herself all of the time. Julie is a 2-time breast cancer survivor and is the strongest woman I know.
Julie had the opportunity to travel to California for a ritual retreat with a group of good witches. She would share stores, rituals and positive vibes with her sisters, and she wanted to dress the part and feel fabulous. She asked me if I could make her a special garment for her retreat, on short notice, and showed me her inspiration photo
Inspiration Robe in moss green velvet by Amber Mochrie for Talulah Blue Costumes. So pretty!
GASP!!!! Yes!!!
I had to find a way (and the time) to make this amazing dressing robe for my dear friend, no question.
You see, this robe design goes way back to the early part of the 20th century by means of the artist and fashion designer Paul Poiret in 1910. And you know, I LOVE me some fashion history!
Quoting from the pattern envelope that I used to re-create this coat, appropriately named the Cocoon Coat, here is a little snippet about the designer and the history of the popular coat style:
“Paul Poiret (1876-1944) is generally recognized as the first “modern” fashion designer, and his influence on 20th-century fashion was profound. It is Poiret who is most remembered for freeing women from 19th-century corsets, although he then hobbled them with extremely narrow skirt hems, and for modernizing the Victorian silhouette. As the Parisian designer explained, “I like a plain gown, cut from light and supple fabric, which falls from
the shoulders to the feet in long, straight folds, like thick liquid, just touching the outline of the figure and throwing shadow and light over the moving form” The fully lined Cocoon Coat offered here was designed around 1913-1919. It features batwing sleeves, one-piece front/back body, neckband, and a hobble skirt.”
Julie found this perfect pattern on of Poiret’s design from Folkwear patterns on Etsy, purchased a copy, and had it sent by express mail to me as soon as we agreed on the project and came up with the project plan, timeline and signed my contract agreement. We met up a few days later at the fabric store, and she purchased some gorgeous velvet and satin and we got started making the coat!
Because Julie is such a bright, happy and colorful person, she chose a bright, happy pink to have her cocoon coat made in! Deep pink velvet with a hot pink satin lining was the perfect choice for Julie as it went with the outfit she was planning to wear under the coat (pink French lingerie, of course!), her pink-streaked hair, all for the temptress alluring witch vibe she was going for!
Temptress Vibes. Nailed it!!!
Once I received the pattern Julie ordered, we set up a session to start making the robe together. We only had a couple of week’s time to get it done in time for her to pack it for her trip, so I took all the help and time she had to offer.
Although this pattern seems to be complicated to make with the batwing sleeves and the long, draped back, it is really just two very large pattern pieces, one left and one right side of the coat, with a seam down the center back and a seam pulling the sleeve together while simultaneously creating the draped shape. You cut 2 of the outer pieces and 2 for the lining, and the neck band.
We got to cutting out the enormous pattern pieces on the floor of my sewing room, trying to make sure everything was flat and not shifting as we cut, which was no easy task. We did the best we could with the space and tools that we had, and didn’t worry too much about perfection.
Sewing this baby was not easy either. Velvet is notorious for being difficult to sew as it shifts and slips and doesn’t like to be pressed or un-stitched if you make a mistake. Satin isn’t much better. Throw in the fact that the pieces to be sewn together are HUGE, and I was running out of time, so I didn’t have time to fuss and fiddle with it.
I kept Julie informed with my progress with photos of what I had done and when I expected to be finished. The coat did come together fairly quickly even with all of the setbacks and really started to look quite special and amazing!
The lining! Love itMaking progress with the coat, and imagining it with this awesome pink strappy bootie!
As the coat was taking shape and I was nearing the finished project, I took the time to try to capture photos of it. The photos certainly don’t do it justice on a dress form as the color is all wrong for one thing, and you really see the drape and shape of the coat on a person, but it still looked pretty dang awesome!
The front of the coat and the reflection of the back
As I finished the coat just in time to deliver it to Julie on her way out of town for her event, I made sure to sew a label in it to remind her of me and my presence on her back whenever she wore it.
Made with Love
Here’s Julie’s take on our Cocoon Coat adventure:
Cocoon Coat!
“The Cocoon coat was made from a Poiret pattern, and a style popular in the ‘20’s.
I was creating an outfit for a branding photo shoot, and what came to me was the Goddess. I googled Goddess robe and came across a modified cocoon coat, and another with an amazing headpiece and so this vision was born. I immediately called Stephanie and told her I was so damn excited and all of the deets!!! This coat would bring to life my vision of the Goddess, a facet of me, of my magic and beauty.
We selected the fabric, an amazing dark garnet pink color, crushed velour, with a brilliant pink satin for lining. The trim is a black almost rhinestone.
The coat is luxurious and alluring, timeless and makes me feel glamorous. As the Goddess, i wore the coat with my wedding lingerie underneath, bra, panties, garter and pink backseam stockings –
The coat is also something that could be worn as a coat for a glamorous evening out, or an intimate evening in, its so soft, and just envelops me in glowing pink, warmth and I feel like a movie star, the custom creation brought my vision to life and is a timeless statement piece that will remain in my wardrobe forever”
Julie Papke, September 2, 2022
Thank you so much for your thoughts on our process Julie! I loved working with you and creating this special coat just for you. I hope you love it forever!
Julie absolutely is magical in her Cocoon Coat and special sexy outfit, perfectly accessorized with cool boots and a crown.
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to have a custom dress or outfit made just for you? Have you thought that just buying something off the rack or from a website is good enough and will do for the occasion, but deep down (or not even that deep) you wish you could wear something that fit you perfectly, was made well, is a flattering color on you, and was something you would be comfortable, confident and proud to wear to your event and beyond? Do you want a great dress, top, suit or outfit hanging in your wardrobe that you can reach for again and again and just know it works? If you said “yes!” to all of the above, I would love to be the one to make this dream come true for you!
So, what does this process look like, how does it all happen and how long would it take? It’s this going to cost me an arm and a leg?
For those questions, the answer is: it all depends.
First off, I am a one woman operation (at least for now I am) and only have so much time in a day. My goals for my Love, Stephanie custom sewing business include creating quality, timeless apparel for special clients who recognize the value in a well made custom garment. I use fine quality materials and construction methods, I don’t take on rush jobs, and I don’t take shortcuts. That being said, that is what takes the time to perfect the fit, using smart construction techniques, and all of the education and sewing skills that I have learned over the years that rolls into the lead time and cost of a custom made garment.
That’s me! Stephanie of Love, Stephanie
Sound intriguing so far? Great! Read on and I’ll walk you through what my typical process looks like from the perspective that includes the client experience and what to expect.
We begin with an initial meeting where I get to know you better, what your ideas and visions are for your custom garment, what your lifestyle is like, and what mood or purpose you’d like to portray through the garment you’ll be wearing.
Initial Client Consultation
From there, I build a plan and a timeline to achieve the finished garment before your deadline and get started sourcing fabrics and pattern options that go into making your garment.
Going over sketches and fabric ideas
I like to create sketches, a mood board, and gather any other ideas and components that go into the creative process of making a successful garment, and share these with you along the way.
After our initial consultation meeting, I gather up all the information and write up a contract that includes all of your contact information, the deadlines, our design concept agreement, project components, costs and payment schedule for you to read over and sign. This is an important step as I want to ensure both of us are in agreement over all of the details in case any questions or concerns should arise.
Then the fun begins! I’ll take all of the body measurements I need from you and get started making the garment.
Taking measurements Lots of measurements!
Using your measurements and a pattern, I cut out and sew up a simplified mock-up garment in muslin fabric to check fit, style preferences and to make sure you are happy with the basic silhouette before cutting into any fashion fabric. At times, an additional muslin, or part if it, needs to made and fitted again if there are a lot of changes that need a review before proceeding.
A mock-up fitting in muslinI check for any fit issues that need to be corrected, and make sure you are happy with the style lines and length
Meanwhile, the fashion fabric that you want, including any lining material, trim and notions needed, is confirmed and purchased. I aim to use the best quality fabric that is within your budget (not included in the cost of my labor) as I truly feel that the fabric makes all the difference in the look and wear of a garment. I prefer to work with natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk and linen, but will consider good quality man made fabrics to sew with such as rayon and synthetic blends.
Fabric choices are important in the outcome of a beautiful garment Silk is my personal favorite!
Once the muslin is approved and the fabric is all here, I transfer any changes to the pattern, and start cutting!
The beautiful silk georgette is laid out and ready to cutAnd sewn (silk is notoriously difficult to sew)
Most times, I have one last fitting of the garment in the fashion fabric to double check the fit, pin the hem, and work out any last details before delivering the finished creation.
From concept to creation!Perfection!The final fitting!
And that’s it! Easy, right?
Well done! Cheers!
In a nutshell, that’s the process in creating a unique custom garment, made especially just for you! No matter what size or shape you are, it’s an exciting and rewarding experience like no other.
Want to give it a go? Reach out to me and come on by my place with your dream garment vision and we’ll make it happen!
Ode to Sew 